Category: Ammo
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HOW TO STORE AMMO By WILL DABBS, MD
Ammunition is not cheap, so its proper storage is an important consideration for many people. Keeling your cartridges in good working condition relies a lot on how you store your ammunition. In this article, Dr. Will Dabbs offers a unique look at how to store ammo safely. His perspective as a firearms enthusiast, veteran and doctor at an ammunition plant all come together for a succinct look at the topic.
Not just everybody knows this, but there are actually two broad categories of American money in circulation. Regular money goes toward rent, gas, food and diapers. By contrast, gun money buys firearms, ammunition and accessories. These two types of money might look the same, but they are very, very different.
Similarly, there are also two fundamentally different kinds of ammunition on the market today. Blasting bullets are cheap bulk-packed, no-frills jacketed ball that you use for both recreation and training. Blasting bullets are frequently steel-cased and are built to be burned.
By contrast, defensive bullets are the good stuff. This is high-end, high-performance ammo that you stash away for use in your defensive firearms. Considering ammo of any sort is really expensive, it behooves us to invest a little forethought into how we maintain it. If you want your ammo stash to last, you need to store it properly. 
I always find it entertaining when news people breathlessly report that some miscreant was discovered to have a “stockpile of ammunition” upon his apprehension. A single brick of .22 shells is 500 rounds. Maintain enough ammo to properly feed a decent defensive handgun, a modern sporting rifle, a rimfire plinking gun, and a defensive shotgun and you will have your own ammo stockpile by any reasonable metric. Just embrace it.
Shelf Life: Chemistry is a Cruel Mistress
We live in a fallen world. The evidence of that is all around us. Leave most anything exposed to the humidity and elements and it will eventually corrode, rot or die. The technical term is entropy. This is the quantifiable state of disorder in any natural system. Everything about life from birth to the grave is actually one big exercise in pushing back against entropy. When it comes to ammunition, your primary enemies are heat and oxidation. 
I am the plant doctor for a sprawling ammunition plant in my little Southern town. They produce vast quantities of military ammo. I was amazed when first I started working there at the effort that went into designing ammunition for U.S. troops that would operate reliably through a wide range of temperatures and environmental conditions.
However, ammo is innately consumable. It is designed to be stored in a protected environment and then remain weather-resistant for a relatively brief period of time after issue. That makes baseline storage conditions very important.
Ammunition and Extreme Heat
Modern ammunition is quite heat-stable. 150 degrees F is a good safe upper limit for planning purposes. In all of recorded history, it has never gotten that hot on planet earth due to natural forces alone. However, your attic or the trunk of your car can indeed become fairly hellish, particularly in the summer down in the Deep South where I live.
Long term exposure to elevated temperatures can cause your ammunition to degrade. Don’t leave your ammo in such toasty places for long periods unnecessarily. Cool dry areas like a closet, underneath a cabinet, or inside the gun safe are better.
Moisture and Corrosion
Most metals react with oxygen to form oxides. Oxides can diminish structural strength and just make things nasty. Good old-fashioned rust is the most obvious example. This process requires both oxygen and an electrolyte. Oxygen is obviously a ubiquitous component of air. Water vapor condensing on the substrate is the most common electrolyte. 
The goal is simply to store your ammo away from moisture. That requires some kind of physical barrier plus initial desiccation, which is the removal of water.
A dehumidifier will work well in a safe where you expect to rotate through the ammo with some regularity. If you are going to store ammo long-term, you will want to put it in something that is sealed against the elements and make sure it is dry from the outset.
Tools to Store Your Ammo
I do love me some G.I. ammo cans. Those things are just awesome. They are rugged, inexpensive, versatile, and purpose-designed to store ammunition safely. They stack readily, and they look cool. All those pointy square corners combined with that minimalist retractable pressed steel handle make them ghastly to hump long distances, but normal people don’t have to do that very often. They come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes.
The 20mm, 30mm, and 40mm cans are all big, bulky, and voluminous. Cans used to transport 81mm mortars are frankly enormous. They are all made from pressed steel painted OD green and sport the same heavy steel latch and pivoting lid. The lids all have rubber gaskets that keep moisture at bay and are readily removable. If you have big stuff you need to store these are all good options, but they are bulky. Additionally, fill one of those boxes all the way up with small arms ammo and it will be too heavy to carry. The most common and practical ammo cans are the .30 and .50-caliber sort.
The military designation for the smaller .30-caliber can is M19A1. The larger .50-caliber variety is the M2A1. Uncle Sam issues combat-packed 5.56mm on stripper clips in the M2A1 .50-caliber can as well.
The PA108 is a bit larger than the M2A1 and is designed to carry linked 5.56mm SAW ammo. These are commonly called “Fat Fifties” as they are slightly larger than the .50-caliber cans. They all have their merits for civilians wishing to store their ammo safely.
Actual G.I. surplus ammo cans look cool because they have all that nifty stenciling on the outside. However, you can get essentially the same cans brand new from a variety of civilian sources. As of this writing, Amazon will sell you a fine M2A1 knockoff for twenty bucks. The .30-caliber version is $17. For another couple of dollars each they offer the same cans with lockable hasps. My local Walmart and Harbor Freight Tools offer them as well at comparable prices. Plastic versions are cheaper but not quite as durable.
Efficiently organizing and packing your ammo in the cans is half the fun. Before you seal them up, give the interior a quick going over with a blow dryer to make sure all the residual moisture is burned away.
Managing Moisture in Your Ammo Storage
If you plan on seriously long-term storage or if you live in a really humid place, you might want to pack a little desiccant in with your stash. These are the annoying little pouches that come stuffed into medicine bottles sporting the handy admonition, “Do Not Eat.”
They include chemicals that naturally absorb moisture and keep the surrounding material dry. These little silica gel packs can be had in the neighborhood of 50 for about $10. In a sealed container, they work great for pulling moisture out of the air to keep ammo dry.
Some chemical desiccants can be rejuvenated, most commonly via a brief stint in the oven. Others are actually electrically powered rechargeable modules that are energized via wall power. If you’re really cheap you can make your own out of kitty litter and socks or even baking soda. The details are available online.
Final Thoughts on How to Store Ammo
There are lots of other ways to store ammunition, but none are so efficient, effective, inexpensive, and cool as are plain old G.I. ammo cans in my opinion. Pack a thousand rounds of 5.56mm away sealed in a steel ammo can with a little desiccant in a cool dry place and that stuff will still run reliably for your great grandchildren.
Just like groceries, rotate your stock so you shoot the old stuff first and your “ammo stockpile” will outlive you.
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Turkish 8mm Mauser
The end of spring is approaching. There are a few turkeys still gobbling, the morels are popping, mosquitos are multiplying and, around the forest, black bears have grudgingly rolled out of their sporadic winter snooze.
Spring bear hunting is a grand adventure, and there’s still some time left to chase them. But, as with pursuing any predator, there is (or should be) an extra layer preparedness. Come with me as we look at some fun and effective sidearm options for your spring bear forays and summer scouting expeditions.
First off, the scope of this little exercise is limited to black bear. Grizzly/brown bear regions require different levels of stopping power due to size, strength, etc., and not all of these selections hit that metric. We are going to look at caliber, platform, bullet and carry method options for the odyssey known as spring black bear hunting.
The four calibers we are going to focus on are 9mm, .357 Magnum, 10mm and .44 Magnum with a nod of respect to a few others.
The 9mm—An Unexpected Companion
For many, the thought of carrying a 9mm as a potential black bear backup mitigator would be cause to clutch pearls and gasp in disbelief. And, they wouldn’t be entirely wrong, historically speaking. In years past, the 9mm hasn’t been offered with a bullet that would perform in that capacity. Thanks to several ammo manufactures, there are currently some great “bear-stopping” options on the market.
The 9mm Luger—also known as the 9mm Parabellum or 9×19—is an immensely popular and (thanks to modern ammunition innovations) versatile chambering. Bullets range from lightweight 90-115-grain target offerings to 150-grain critter stoppers—two or four legged.
In their Backcountry Defense line, Hornady offers a 138-grain DGH 9mm +P round with a protected point projectile for maximum penetration and energy delivery. In a 4-inch test barrel, this particular round delivers a muzzle velocity of 1150 fps and 405 ft.-lbs. of energy. At 50 yards, velocity drops to 1068 fps and energy to 350 ft.-lbs..
As most self-defense encounters happen much closer to the muzzle than 50 yards, the 9mm with appropriate ammunition is still a viable option for black bears.
Petite Power—The .357 Magnum
The .357 Magnum is another one that might spark some debate as a bear option. But, for the small or recoil sensitive, the .357 is a great revolver-based choice. Remember, it doesn’t make any difference how much stopping power you have in hand if you can’t hit what you’re aiming at …
Like the 9mm, bullet selection has broadened significantly. There are lots of bear (un)friendly options from which to choose. Hornady currently makes a 165-grain DGH (Dangerous Game Handgun) load in the Backcountry Defense series. With a muzzle velocity of 1510 fps and 835 ft.-lbs. of energy, it is a great middle-ground option.
Next up is the 10mm. This is a delightful little powerhouse that is chambered in a semi-auto platform. The 10mm is a bit of a niche and enjoys a small but dedicated following as a cartridge.
The 10mm is available in bullet weights from 135-220 grains. With muzzle velocities from the low 1000s fps to 1400 fps, it can deliver great energy to the target. There are currently some good “defense” loads on the market for this chambering. A few worth mentioning are made by Buffalo Bore and Underwood. Ideal bullet construction is flat nosed or protected end to deliver maximum penetration and deposit energy.
Additionally, Hornady has a great DGH 10mm 200-grain load. Muzzle velocity is 1160 fps with 598 ft.-lbs. of energy. At 50 yards, this 200-grain projectile is traveling at 1077 fps and is still delivering 515 ft.-lbs. of energy. All Hornady data is from a 5-inch test barrel.
Size, Weight and Recoil—The .44 Magnum
Switching gears a bit, the pearl clutchers can relax as we dig more into familiar bear sidearm territory—the eminent .44 Remington Magnum. The .44 Magnum, once revered as the most powerful handgun caliber, has enjoyed immense popularity and recognition as “the choice” for a bear sidearm. And they’re not wrong. Ballistically, the .44 Mag is both exceptional and effective. But there’s a downside.
Most .44 Mag. revolvers are chunky, girthy and a handful. From snub-nose hand cannons to long-barreled behemoths, the .44 Mag. delivers a lot of energy effectively in many forms. This is a positive when facing down a large, toothy critter. However, they do so with a lot of recoil and muzzle blast.
The basic ballistic profile of the .44 Mag. involves a projectile from 180-300 grains with velocities from 1000 to over 1600 fps. There are tons of options for .44 Mag. ammunition with many geared toward dangerous-game critters and defense.
Continuing with Hornady products, there is a 240-grain DGH (Dangerous Game Handgun) load with muzzle velocity of 1620 fps. The energy at the muzzle is 1398 fps and drops to 1147 fps at 50 yards (as tested with an 8-inch barrel). The capability of this round as a bear-stopper is vast.
Platforms, etc.
Calibers aside, platform and carry method are a symbiotic relationship all their own. From petite CC options to longer slide, full-frame concepts, there are lots of platforms from which to choose. Picking the one that fits your needs involves an evaluation of desired carry method.
Chest holster? Leg holster? Belt carry? Picking the carry method that’s comfortable (and effective) for you is critical. If it’s not comfy, you most likely won’t carry it consistently. In the same vein, if you don’t shoot it confidently, it won’t be overly effective under stressful circumstances.
A few things to consider when evaluating holsters:
Will you be carrying a pack with a hip belt? If yes, belt carry might be a little uncomfortable. Second, do you carry a bino chest harness? If yes, then make sure that if you’re interested in chest carry, the harness is compatible. Accessibility is important. Third, if hauling bait buckets, make sure that your carry method doesn’t impact range of motion with lifting/carrying.
Finding the right holster is key. It not only needs to be comfortable to wear and seamlessly integrated into your hunting gear/activities, it needs to keep your gun firmly retained and secure. Trigger protection is paramount—especially in some of the non-revolver options.
Honorable Mentions
The .45 ACP—A Timeless Staple
My first center firehandgun was a 1911 in .45 ACP. As a result, I’m a bit partial to it. While many prefer other options, I know what I’m comfortable shooting and have confidence in. When I chased black bears a few years back in my home state of Michigan, my 1911 was firmly strapped to my chest throughout my time in the woods.
.327 Federal—An Unexpected Alternative
The .327 Federal Magnum is typically not the first to spring to mind when it comes to black-bear defense. Ballistically, it has lots of interesting characteristics—akin to a .357 Magnum, but not as spicy. Practically, there is typically one more in the cylinder, which can be a benefit in a defensive situation.
.41 Remington Magnum—For Those That Go Against the Grain …
The .41 Remington Mag is a very strong bear-defense option, ballistically speaking. While the .44 Magnum is the popular go-to for many (with good reason), the .41 Mag has a devout and niche fan base. Ammo availability is a lot less than the heavily popularized .44 Mag., but it’s a very effective option nonetheless.
With spring bear hunting in full swing, it’s time to get out there. From holster selection and carry method to caliber and bullet design, there are decisions aplenty. However, buying a gun is always a good idea. Whether duplicating an existing caliber in a new format, dabbling in something new, or checking out some new bullets, there’s no time like the present to get bear(ly) armed.
Happy Hunting!
Andi
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Sorry but I hold that anything below the awesome 30-06 is just asking for trouble. When it comes to dealing with Yogi or Bobo! Grumpy
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