Category: Gun Info for Rookies


Gainesville, GA –-(Ammoland.com)- For the long-distance hunter, success in the field always begins at the shooting range. It would be great if every shooting range was designed so you could practice from 100 yards all the way out to 1,000 yards. The reality though, is that most ranges only offer rifle venues out to 100 yards, especially older ranges built before long-range shooting became so prevalent.
A shorter range doesn’t have to limit your preparation though. Using a ballistic calculator like Ballistic, your practice time at 100 yards can effectively prepare you for that longer-range shot in the field.
When you get to your range, enter your basic inputs into Ballistic, including bullet weight and type, atmospheric conditions, and sight height. Then, using your hunting rifle-optic set up, plus your hunting ammunition, zero your rifle at 100 yards, generating as tight a three- to five-shot group as possible.
Now, use a high-quality chronograph to determine your muzzle velocity; ten shots through the chronograph will provide the ammunition’s average velocity. Add this velocity number to your Ballistic inputs.
The next steps is to mimic field conditions with realistic game animal targets. While standard target practice is important, game animals don’t have bullseyes pasted to their vital zones. So, set up a life-sized animal target (there are many available today) at your 100-yard distance. Most of the better realistic targets even have the vital zones outlined. Once you can effectively place your shots where needed, switch to a smaller animal target. A one-half- or one-quarter-sized game animal target will help prepare you for what the animal will look like in the field, at distance, through your scope.
Once you get to your actual hunting area input your 100-yard zero into your Ballistic workup for your load, and it will show you the bullet’s drop at various distances. Let’s say the 200-yard listing shows a 2.5-inch drop from the 100-yard zero. Adjust the elevation on your optic according, in this case plus 2.5-inches, and you should be right on at 200 yards. Lastly, always make sure to redo your Atmospheric inputs for local conditions, and Ballistic will provide the precise data you need to take your trophy at long distance.
About Ballistic
Ballistic is the definitive ballistics trajectory calculator, intended for long-range and precision shooters who want a serious–and a seriously accurate–application. Ballistic will calculate your bullet’s trajectory, windage, velocity, energy, lead, and flight time for any valid range. The app can also compensate for atmospheric conditions such as temperature, barometric pressure, humidity, and altitude–it can even accept density of air or density altitude inputs! The world-renowned JBM Ballistics engine powers all Ballistic computations. Ballistic is used by competition shooters, long-range hunters, and the military to deliver the most precise calculations possible.
With Ballistic, you’ll be able to make the most accurate calculations for every shot, everywhere, even in areas with no cellular coverage.
| September 26, 2012
Style, Style & Grooming
How to arrange good-looking clothing around the decidedly non-standard bulge of a handgun is a topic worth looking at. It’s something that a whole range of men need to think about: police detectives, security guards, entrepreneurs in dangerous countries, and even your average American civilian who prefers to be armed.
“Concealed carry” exists for a number of reasons. When you’re doing it, you want to be living up to both parts of the phrase: you want to be carrying, and have access to, a firearm, and you want it to be discreetly hidden until such time as you need it.
For some men, any jacket long enough to hide a holster is sufficient. But for most men, concealed carry needs to fit other societal expectations:
- Most plainclothes peace officers will have specific dress needs — either a respectable suit or blazer to give them out-of-uniform authority, or in some cases a disguise to help them blend into their environment.
- Security guards are almost always expected to dress professionally, as much for the comfort of their employer’s clients as anything else. Banks and government buildings need high security, but prefer a discreet man in a blazer as opposed to a uniformed, paramilitary-looking trooper looming over their customers.
- An armed civilian gets less hassle if he doesn’t fit the stereotype of an armed threat. A trenchcoat and combat boots conceal a weapon, but it doesn’t really conceal the likelihood that you’ve got a gun under there. Bringing a little men’s style into the equation makes the “concealed” part of “concealed carry” a lot more effective. Plus, it’s the law in most states that if you’re carrying heat, you conceal it. Editor’s Note: If you’re a civilian, be sure to check with your local and state laws before you begin carrying a firearm. Most states require citizens who wish to carry a firearm to obtain a concealed carry license; there also may be restrictions on where you can carry your firearm.
There are many reasons to think about both concealed carry and style in the same picture. This article lays out the quickest and best steps to making your concealed carry experience both practical and stylish:
- Step 1: Choose Your Weapon
- Step 2: Choose Your Method of Carry
- Step 3: Choose Your Outfit
- Step 4: Talk to Your Tailor
So let’s take it step by step:
Step 1: Choose Your Weapon
Concealed carry means striking a balance between firepower, ammunition, and size. You inevitably end up making a sacrifice in one area or the other — it’s more a question of personal needs and tastes than it is a matter of which is the “best” weapon.

But for choosing a handgun, which is what most men will be carrying when they carry a firearm in public, here are a few factors worth thinking about:
Magazine Size and Shape

A single-stack magazine is always easier to conceal than a double-stack.
The most important dimension of a pistol for concealment purposes is the width — how fat the barrel and the grip are. That’s what’s going to make a bulge under your clothing, more than the length or even the weight of the gun.
As a result, it’s better to have a single-stack magazine of relatively low caliber, at least in terms of concealment purposes. If that’s just not going to meet your needs in terms of firepower or ammunition, you get a slightly thicker magazine and cope as best you can.
The disadvantage of a smaller grip/magazine (aside from limiting your shots) is that a powerful handgun with a small grip has a ton of kick. The shorter the grip, the less leverage you have, making aiming trickier (especially follow-up shots after the first). A heavier frame can help compensate for a smaller magazine, and won’t alter the concealment in most holster types (though it will create more of a sag if you’re carrying it in your pocket or by another non-holstered method).
Look for a balance that suits your needs, but from a concealment standpoint do be aware that a longer grip/magazine is harder to hide, and may end up poking you depending on your carry method.
Caliber
This is one that some people have very strong feelings on. Some people will swear that you always want the maximum firepower you can carry; other people are comfortable with the idea that no bullet is a bullet anyone wants to take, and therefore even a tiny holdout pistol is plenty for self-defense.
You’ve got to make that call yourself. But the reality is, smaller caliber handguns are easier to conceal both because of the magazine size and the barrel width and length.
It’s not a universal scale — a .45 could be more concealable than a .38 depending on the shape and size of the grip and magazine — it’s just something you need to be thinking of as a firepower/concealability trade-off.

Exterior Construction
To use a very untechnical term, some guns are made with lots of “fiddly bits.”
You know what I’m talking about — everything from sighting notches to bulky safety catches to raised lettering on the barrel. Any of those is going to make the gun harder to conceal.
Weapons that are purpose-designed for concealed carry (and a number of manufacturers do have models specifically for the CC market) tend to be smooth-sided and streamlined. Look for designs with minimum “fiddly bits.” It’ll help both your concealment and your draw.
Barrel and Magazine Length
It’s a secondary consideration next to width, but the length of the pistol (in both directions) does matter. Extended magazines are hard to hide, and tend to poke you while you carry them.
Longer barrels give you range and accuracy, and longer magazines give you more shots without reloading, but the reality for most of us is that neither of those is a huge consideration. Unless you’re in an active military or paramilitary kind of situation, you — hopefully — won’t ever need more than a shot or two, even in the very worst-case scenario. Most of the time you won’t even need that.
So when possible, err on the side of a smaller weapon and magazine for the sake of concealability and comfort. It’s one of those trade-offs where you have to know your own needs, but don’t just default to the biggest magazine and longest barrel available for your handgun of choice.
Although easy to conceal, the mosquito gun is ineffective against anything larger than a squirrel.
So Which Gun is the Right One?
There’s no single right answer to that question. But, most men with concealed carry experience will recommend something along the same basic lines:
- low to mid-caliber ammunition
- single-stack magazine (or very slim-profiled revolver)
- slim grip
- short barrel
- smooth exterior
- light weight
Here are a few of the more popular models that get tossed around in discussions of concealed carry — this is by no means an exhaustive list, nor should any of these be taken as strong recommendations, but they’re good examples of the relatively broad range of options you have:
- Glock Model 19
- NAA .22 Magnum Mini-Revolver
- Kahr PM9
- Smith & Wesson M&P series
- Walther PPS
- Springfield XD
There are many more beyond these. But the important step here — and this is key — is to know which one you carry (or will be carrying) before you start planning your wardrobe around it, and especially before you have any tailor-made adjustments. You get the maximum benefit when you can have clothes tailored specifically for your gun and holster of choice.
Which brings us to our next step:
Step 2: Choose Your Method of Carry
Just like handguns, holsters come in every style imaginable. You might own one, or you might own a dozen. Depends on your needs. But for purposes of deciding what to wear and how to conceal your gun, you’ll want to know where you’re going to wear it, and in what kind of holster.
Regardless of your method of carry, one key piece of equipment is a very sturdy belt. This not only helps keep the gun in place and prevents your trousers from sagging, it’s also an important safety feature. You don’t want the holster shifting and you certainly don’t want the belt buckle popping open because of the extra weight or the jerk of your draw. Invest in something broad and made of sturdy leather or ballistic nylon. Most stores that sell holsters will also sell belts designed for them.
Paddle Holster, Hip Carry – OWB (Outside the Waistband)

- Advantages: Simple, cheap, and quick to draw
- Disadvantages: Bulky and hard to conceal
This is the most typical way for peace officers and soldiers to carry their primary handgun: a “paddle” style holster (basically the outline of the gun, with a flat “paddle” backing that rests against your body) worn at the belt line, with the pistol pointed down the thigh. The magazine points toward the rear of your body, and the grip is typically angled a bit forward.
The disadvantage for concealed carry should be obvious: it’s going to be very easy to accidentally reveal a gun that’s worn up by your front pockets. A long, loose jacket will do the trick, but as soon as you unbutton/unzip the front it only takes a stiff breeze to expose your holster.
It’s also hard to conceal the bulge if you wear a buttoned suit or sports jacket, even one tailored for the holster. You can pull it off with a small holster and a small gun, but expect to look pretty heavy around the hips when you do it.
Paddle Holster, Behind the Back – OWB (Outside the Waistband)
- Advantages: Simple, cheap, and still fairly quick to draw
- Disadvantages: Still bulky; still requires at least a jacket to conceal
An obvious solution to the hip-carry problem is to keep the same simple holster but move it to the small of your back.
This removes the problem of an unbuttoned jacket brushing back to expose the pistol. The whole back of your coat/jacket would have to flip up to reveal your firearm. It makes a suit or sports jacket much more effective concealment, especially if it’s cut a bit long in the rear. A little looseness also looks more natural on the back of your jacket than it does at the sides.
Drawing a pistol from behind your back is a bit slower than off the hip, but still not too cripplingly inconvenient. There is growing concern, however, that a gun in the small of your back can cause back injuries if you fall or are struck hard where the gun rests — many police departments mandate that nothing except soft items (gloves, CPR kits, etc.) be carried directly in the center of the back for this reason.
So while the simple paddle holster worn behind the back is an effective method of concealment, and still a favorite for a lot of concealed carriers, it comes with some safety cautions. And, of course, it requires you to sit down pretty gingerly, if at all.
Shoulder Holster

- Advantages: Decent concealment, faster draw than behind the back
- Disadvantages: Uncomfortable, easy to accidentally expose
The shoulder holster, which keeps the handgun tucked under your armpit and against your upper ribs, is a popular one with law enforcement (and one made famous by Hollywood and television cops). It’s a good choice for easy access, and only slightly slower to draw from than a holster on your hip.
Unfortunately, it’s also not that great for concealment. A suit jacket or blazer angles back toward the shoulder — you’ve usually only got a few inches between the butt of your pistol and the opening of your jacket. Unbuttoned, it’s very easy for the jacket to slide back far enough to reveal your weapon.
Typically, your draw with a shoulder holster also has to cross your body, with the barrel sweeping in almost a full semi-circle. They’re not allowed on many firing ranges for this reason — instructors and managers don’t want to risk other people being placed within the line of fire as you draw. It’s important to have very good trigger control and be careful with your safety when you’re drawing from a shoulder holster.
Due to the concealment drawbacks and need for trained habits, shoulder holsters tend to be best for people like plainclothes detectives and security guards who are being discreet, but don’t need to effectively disguise the fact that they’re carrying a weapon, and tend to have more firearms training than your average civilian.
Sheath Holster IWB (Inside-the-Waistband)
- Advantages: Good concealment, doesn’t require a jacket
- Disadvantages: Requires tailored trousers
IWB holsters (the most common name) carry the gun tucked into the trousers rather than worn outside them. They make special holsters for this, which are worth investing in. Whatever you may see on TV, don’t go tucking guns into your pants without a holster unless you absolutely have to. Most IWB holsters can be positioned anywhere on your back, allowing for basic behind-the-back carry or for something shifted to one hip or the other.
The advantage here is that you only have to hide the handle of the gun, rather than the whole thing. A smooth holster inside custom-widened trousers conceals most of the bulk for you. Just a loose T-shirt will do to hide an inside-the-waistband carry in a pinch.
The downside is that it’s an expensive and a fairly uncomfortable option. You need the tailored trousers, the specific holster, and the willingness to stand and sit with a gun barrel pointed down your rear end.
Pocket Carry

- Advantages: Good concealment, flexible positioning
- Disadvantage: Requires a small gun, concealment can vary; gun may shift
Pocket carry is what it sounds like — sticking a gun in your pocket. How effective the method is at concealment depends on how large your pockets are, how thick their lining is, and what style they are — big patch pockets with thick lining and a closing flap will hide a gun fairly effectively, while the back or hip pockets of your jeans will not.
The biggest disadvantage of carrying your gun in your pocket is that, unless you have an internal holder sewn into the pocket (which we recommend if you plan on pocket carrying regularly), the gun will shift around as you move. This can slow your draw, make the gun more likely to “print” (show its outline through the fabric), and even be a safety hazard.
If you wear a garment with large, easily-accessed pockets low on your midsection, you can position a gun for off-hand draw as well. A side-slit pocket near where your off-hand naturally falls is about as easy access as you’re going to get for emergency off-hand draw if your primary arm is incapacitated.
Many people prefer to use pocket carry for a back-up or holdout weapon, paired with another method of concealed carry for a primary weapon. If you do pocket carry, be sure that the gun is snug in the pocket, and have a tailor sew a holder into the interior if necessary. You don’t want your gun falling out, or to go to draw it and find it upside down and backwards in your pocket.
Ankle Holster

- Advantages: Excellent concealment
- Disadvantages: Very slow draw, limited to the smallest handguns
An ankle holster is a traditional holdout option for very small handguns. It requires nothing fancier than boot-cut jeans to conceal, and may even be missed by careless pat-downs. But it limits you to little more than a derringer (though some police carry sub-compacts, usually in specially-tailored trousers), and takes several seconds to draw from, making it a backup option rather than a primary method of carry for most men.
Holdout holsters can also be strapped to a forearm, inner thigh, or other unusual point for maximum concealment. Again, however, these are difficult to draw from and can only conceal the very smallest handguns out there.
Step 3: Choose Your Outfit
Once you know what gun you’re going to carry and where you’re going to carry it, you’re ready to plan an outfit that both conceals the weapon and looks sharp on you.
Different men have different sartorial needs, just as they have different firearm needs. The good news is, there’s a concealing outfit for every standard of dress from James Bond’s tuxedo all the way down to cargo pants and a T-shirt.
Business Concealed Carry
Suit-and-tie concealed carry is more common than you might think. Businessmen who travel frequently like to take personal protection along with them, and some politicians actively advertise their habit of carrying a weapon as a matter of principle as well as protection.
Can you spot the handgun’s print?
Happily for all of them, a business suit is a fairly effective method of concealment. It’s actually one of the better options out there, short of a full length coat. You can use pretty much every type of holster:
- Paddle on the hip (with the jacket buttoned; jacket should be tailored for the bulge)
- Paddle behind the back (a long jacket easily conceals the whole thing)
- Inside the waistband (practically invisible under a jacket)
- Shoulder/armband holster (concealed as long as the jacket’s buttoned)
- Ankle holster
The biggest consideration for a man in a suit is usually whether he needs to be able to take the jacket off or wear it unbuttoned. An unbuttoned suit jacket can still conceal either kind of behind-the-back carry, and of course a holdout, but will probably reveal a holster on the hip or under the arm if the wearer moves much.
Men who need to be able to take their jacket off and still keep a weapon hidden should wear trousers tailored for inside-the-waistband carry and a shirt with a long, loose back that can be untucked or draped over the butt of the gun.
Three-piece suits are also popular with concealed carriers — the waistcoat can be cut deliberately long to hide an inside-the-waistband carry.
If you’re actually likely to be in any sort of combat situation, be sure to swap a clip-on tie with a breakaway clip for the hand-tied version. They’re not quite as nice-looking, but someone who’s working as a bodyguard or security officer doesn’t need to be offering a free chokehold to potential assailants.
Business-Casual Concealed Carry
A step down from the suit and tie look, business casual is the style preferred by most men who carry a handgun as part of their job — plainclothes cops, body guards, security guards, and so forth. A business casual outfit looks respectable and often includes a conveniently concealing jacket, making it all around useful for people in that sort of line.

Civilians should also take advantage of the blazer-and-slacks combination. It gives you plenty of places to conceal a weapon, and it has the added advantage of making you look well-dressed relative to the average guy on the street. People looking at you are going to be thinking, “Hey, he looks sharp,” not, “Hmm, I wonder if he’s carrying a gun.”
A sport coat or blazer jacket and long trousers of any kind offer basically the same concealment as a suit jacket. You also have the option of wearing either an unmatched “odd vest” or a longer sweater vest, either of which will hide the handle of a gun worn inside the waistband without the need for a jacket.
Dress-casual concealed carry can be made to look quite casual — think Dirty Harry, Miami Vice, or Steve McQueen in Bullitt, all of which feature shoulder-holstered policemen in jackets and sharp shirts.
Of course, if you’re planning on serious physical activity or movement, don’t expect a suit jacket or blazer to provide much concealment. But presumably at the point where you have to sprint, concealment is no longer the chief priority.
Casual Concealed Carry
If there’s no dress code to observe, you can wear almost anything that conceals a weapon. That said, don’t default straight to baggy jeans and an untucked T-shirt — it works, but it doesn’t do much to disguise the fact that you could be armed, and it’s neither as practical nor as attractive as some of your other options:
- Concealment jackets – These are coats made by arms manufacturers (or affiliates) specifically for concealed carry. SIG makes one designed to look like your basic work jacket, similar to a Carhartt or Dickies, making it very unobtrusive almost anywhere in America. Concealment jackets have large internal pockets, usually Velcro-sealed, with loops or hooks for a handgun. They’re great for outdoors concealed carry, but get both uncomfortable and obviously out of place if you’re indoors for any length of time.

- Leather jackets – A classic style and excellent concealment, opt for one that’s on the longer and looser side. Bomber-style jackets are perfect for concealed carry, since they have a padded lining that conceals bulges and a longer waist than moto-style jackets.
- Denim or wool coats – Lightweight coats are comfortable most of the year and can conceal any style of holster except the paddle (longer coats will even cover that). Just be cautious of tight-fitted waists, typical on jean jackets, unless you know you’re going to be using a shoulder holster exclusively.

- Safari/photographer’s vests – The thigh-length, multi-pocketed vest typical among journalists and photographers is an ideal concealed carry garment. It’s long enough to hide holsters at the waistband, thick enough to disguise bulges, and features plenty of pockets for ammunition or even a smaller holdout weapon. There’s a reason they’re popular with people traveling in rough countries — that said, they’re also the most recognizable “concealed carry” garments, and may draw attention from people looking for concealed weapons.
- Casual shirts worn untucked – Just a plain white dress shirt is plenty of concealment if you’ve got an inside-the-waistband holster. Wear any sort of collared or uncollared shirt loose and untucked and you’ve got enough concealment to hide the grip of a handgun from casual observation. It’s a good option when you’re carrying in places where a jacket or blazer would be conspicuously overdressed. Remember the guayabera shirts we just wrote about?
- Sweatshirts/hoodies – These are pretty much everywhere, and they add plenty of bulk around the waist that can hide even a large handgun. Just be aware that men over 30 wearing a hoodie look like they’re trying a little too hard. It’s good gun concealment, but it’s not magical urban camouflage that will make people think you’re from the streets if you’re not. To learn more about your options check out this classic AOM article on sweater styles for men.
Step 4: Talk to Your Tailor
Bizarrely, this is the step most men skip — even though the cost of alterations is usually less than the cost of a holster, and certainly less than a decent handgun.
Don’t skip it.
A single purpose-made garment is better concealment than any half-dozen layers of unaltered clothing. Tailors have their jobs for a reason.
The key here is to find a tailor who’s willing to work specifically on concealed carry issues. Always ask ahead of time — it’s very bad form to walk into a stranger’s shop and pull out a gun unannounced, even for demonstration purposes. Set up an appointment ahead of time and make it clear that you’ll be bringing a gun.

Some basic changes a tailor can make that go a long way in concealed carry include:
- An extra layer of canvas and lining in the jacket increases stiffness, which reduces the “print” the gun makes through the outer fabric.
- Extra length in the back (you can usually get away with up to an extra inch before it starts to look odd) helps keep a paddle holster concealed when you move or raise your arms.
- Small armholes make the jacket rise less when you move your arms, making them good for paddle holsters. Large armholes, on the other hand, help hide a shoulder holster, and the hem of the jacket lifting doesn’t affect shoulder carry. Pick whichever you need for your holster.
- Small pockets can be added inside the lining at the bottom front corners. You can slip a fishing weight or large coin into the pocket to help keep the jacket in place as you move, preventing any inadvertent holster-flashing.
- If you’re planning on pocket-carrying, a small cloth sling or loop can be added inside the pocket to hold your pistol at the proper angle and keep it from sliding around.
- Select a textured fabric to help break up lines, especially if you carry a bulkier gun. Herringbone, birdseye, and rough tweed all help reduce the visibility of the outline. Stay away from stripes, which emphasize any bulges.
- A stiffened rod or strap can be sewn into the front edge of the jacket, making it easier to flip out of the way when you do draw but keeping it lightly weighted down at all other times.
- Extra pockets can be added to any garment for spare ammunition. If you plan on carrying one specific type of magazine, bring an empty along and have the pocket made to fit it.
- Get a tight-fitted shirt if you use a shoulder holster, to prevent the holster from tugging loose fabric into conspicuous wrinkles across the front of your body.
A good tailor will always take the measurement of the gun itself and of you wearing the gun. Be sure to have all components in place, especially if it makes a difference in size.
Once you have a jacket and trousers (or other garment) tailored for concealed carry, the rest is in your personal style and mannerisms. Carry yourself calmly and with confidence, and dress tastefully but blandly, and you should be able to slip past everyone’s notice without the possibility that you’re armed ever crossing their mind.
The worst thing a concealed carrier can do is fiddle with his clothing, especially where the gun is hidden, so keep your hands at your side and try to look bored. In the ideal concealed carry situation, no one knows you have a gun until you’re using it — and if you’re lucky, that means no one ever knows you have a gun.
Thank You
I would like to extend a big thank to the many law enforcement professionals, military men, and citizens whom I consulted with on this article.
______________
Written by Antonio Centeno, Founder Real Men Real Style
Want to learn more about style? Watch my men’s style videos here.
Some more Gun Acronyms
AAMOF – as a matter of fact
A.R.M.S. – Atlantic Research Marketing Systems
ACOG – Advanced Combat Optical Gunsights (Trijicon)
AD – accidental discharge (although most would argue all AD’s are really ND’s, as a true AD is a gross mechanical failure)
AFAIAA – as far as i am aware
AFAIK – as far as i know
AG – Attorney General
AK – Kalashnikov style rifle
AM – Alison Merrilees (formerly from the DOJ) note spelling (two r’s and two e’s)
AOW – any other weapon
AP – armor piercing
AR – AR15 style rifle
ARFCOM – AR15.com
ATF – Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms (see BATFE)
AW – Assault Weapon
AWB – Assault Weapon Ban
Ball – ball ammo – see FMJ
BATFE – Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms and Explosives
BB – Bullet Button
BCG – Bolt Carrier Group
BF – boyfriend
BM – Bushmaster (www.bushmaster.com)
BOB – bug out bag
BOF – Bureau of Firearms (part of the DOJ) (from back when CA DOJ Firearms was a bureau and not just a division)
BOHICA – bend over, here it comes again, also a firearms manufacturer
Brady Bunch – not the TV show
BP – Border Patrol
BRD – Black Rifle Disease
BTT / BUMP – simple post to “bump” the thread “back to top”
BUG – back up gun
BUIS – back-up iron sights
C&R – curio & relic
CCW / CCP – Concealed Carry Weapons permit (depricated)
CGN – Calguns.net
CGF – Calguns Foundation
CMMG – ??? AR Manuf. (http://www.cmmginc.com/)
CMP – Civilian Marksmanship Program
CMT – Continental Machine and Tool Co (maker of Stag and supplier to many others)
COE – Certificane of Eligibility
CTD – Cheaper Than Dirt (a vendor)
CWS – Cold War Shooters
DA – Double action, district attorney
DD – Daniel Defense
DOJ – California Department of Justice
DI – Direct Impingement
DFTT – Don’t Feed The Troll
DPMS – Defense Procurement Manufacturing Services (http://www.dpmsinc.com/)
DROS – dealer’s record of sale – sometimes used to refer to the 10 day waiting period (e.g., “I just DROS’ed it,” etc..)
EBP – evil black pistol
EBR – evil black rifle
EDC – every day carry
FA – full auto
FCG – fire control group – see HTS
FFL – Federal Firearms License (a dealer)
FMJ – full metal jacket ammunition, usually the base of the bullet is left exposed
FN/FNH = Fabrique Nationale (http://www.fnhusa.com/)
FNG – f-ing new guy (don’t use this – it’s offensive)
FS – for sale
FSB – front sight block
FT – for trade
FTF – Face to Face
FUBAR – f’d up beyond all recognition
FUD – fear, uncertainty, doubt – bad info
GB – Gun Broker (www.gunbroker.com)
GF – girlfriend
GI – government issue, or gas impingement
GPU – Gas Piston Upper
GT – Golden Tiger (ammo for AKs)
HD – home defense
HP – hollow point ammo
HSC – handgun safety certificate
HTS / HST – hammer, sear, & trigger
IANAL- I am not a lawyer
IBTL – in before the lock
IC – Iggy Chinn (from the DOJ)
IIRC – if I remember correctly, or if I recall correctly
IE – Inland Empire
Izzy – Israeli
KAC – Knight’s Armament Company
LA – Long Action
LE – Law Enforcement
LEO – Law Enforcement Officer
LMT – Lewis Machine and Tool (http://www.lewismachine.net/)
LOP – length of pull
LPK – lower parts kit (for ARs)
LRT – LaRue Tactical
LTC – License to Carry
LUCC – Locked Unloaded Concealed Carry
Mag – box magazine; ammunition feeding device (sometimes incorrectly referred to as a “clip”)
MMG – Monster Man Grip
MI – Midwest Industries
MOA – Minute of angle
ND – negligent discharge
NATO – North Atlantic Treaty Organization
NFA – National Firearms Act
NRA – National Rifle Association (please become a member)
NeRF / NRF – non-rosterable firearm
OAL – office of administrative law, also overall length (when referring to long guns)
OC – Orange County
OEM – original equipment manufacturer
Off Roster – refers to pistols not certified for sale in CA (http://certguns.doj.ca.gov/)
OLL – off list lower
OLR – off list rifle
OLU – off list upper (like on a FAL)
OP – original poster, the person who started the thread
PC – Penal Code
PITA – Pain In The @–
PM – Private Message
POF – USA Patriot Ordnance Factory
POF – Pakistan Ordnance Factory
POS – Piece Of S—
POST – Peace Officer Standards and Training
PP – Paypal (but note, they are anti-gun!)
PPT – Private Party Transfer
PRI – Precision Reflex Inc.
PRK – People’s Republic of Kalifornia
PRK – Pistols, Rifles and Knives (an FFL in Fresno)
RAW – Registered Assault Weapon
RG.com – RifleGear.com
RKBA – right to keep and bear arms
Romy “G” – a type of AK
RRA – Rock River Arms (http://www.rockriverarms.com/
SA – semi auto – ALSO “situational awareness”
SA – Single Action
SA – Short Action
SA/DA – Single action / Double action
SBR – short barreled rifle
SBS – Short Barreled Shotgun
SD – Self Defense
SHTF – s— hits the fan
SG – Sportsmans’ Guide (a vendor)
SGN – Shotgun News (a gun sales publication)
SGV – San Gabriel Valley
SNAFU – situation normal, all f’d up
SnQ – shoot n que
SP – soft point ammo
SPR – special police rifle, special purpose rifle
SPF – sold, pending funds
SWS – Superior Weapons Systems (http://www.
T&A – T&A Armory
TAN – the “Thread About Nothing”
TIA – thanks in advance
TMI – too much information
TMJ – Total Metal Jacket ammunition, jacket typically fully encasing the bullet
TPF – ten percent firearms
TSA – Transportation Security Administration
UAW – Unregistered Assault Weapon
WTB – want to buy
WTS – want to sell
WTT – want/willing to trade
YHM – Yankee Hill Machine
YMMV – your mileage may vary
ALSO
aamof- as a matter of fact
ibtl- in before the lock
afaiaa- as far as i am aware
fubar- f’d up beyond all recognition
snafu- situation normal, all f’d up
bohica- bend over, here it comes again
TPF- ten percent firarms
shtf- shi1 hits the fan
bob- bug out bag
bug- back up gun


If you’re anything like me, you’re tired of reading handgun recommendations that can be summed up as “small and pink.” After all, smaller handguns are harder to control, not easier, as many handgun neophytes seem to assume. Pink can be liberating, and no one should be stopped from buying a pink handgun based on someone else’s opinion of the color, but recommending a gun on color alone doesn’t pay due respect to other important factors.
How, then, is one to pick out a handgun for their wife or girlfriend? Easy – by looking at her shopping receipts and figuring out where she shops most. We’ve used a highly scientific formula to match guns to shopping habits, making your task easy and fun. Ready? Let’s go!
#1 – Restoration Hardware – Any 1911

If she loves Restoration Hardware, then she loves paying a lot of money for heavy, impractical things that look old but were actually made last month. For the full Restoration Hardware effect, you’d buy her a Norinco 1911, but those are pretty hard to find.
#2 – Sears – Remington R51

If she shops most at Sears, she enjoys keeping a once-famous American brand on life support while the end of the company looms in the not-so-distant future. Remington is the perfect brand for her, and the R51 is like new Craftsman tools: not quite what they used to be.
#3 – Wal-Mart – Smith & Wesson Sigma

If she lives to save money at Wal-Mart, she doesn’t want to be bothered with anything but a low price on something that looks pretty much the same as name brand stuff. She’ll love the S&W Sigma.
#4 – Target – Smith & Wesson SD9VE

If she refuses to shop at Wal-Mart because she can buy a much higher quality product at Target for only a little extra money, she’ll love the S&W SD9VE, which is a Sigma that is somewhat better and looks different, but also more expensive.
#5 – The Container Store – Glock 17

If you see a lot of The Container Store receipts, that means she can’t get enough of boring blocky plastic things that all look alike but are surprisingly practical and roomy. Pick her up a Glock 17.
#6 – IKEA – Polymer80

If she enjoys getting lost in an IKEA store, that’s because she likes bright colors, lots of options, and the sense of accomplishment that comes from putting something together herself after a little frustration and minor cursing. Available in many colors, Polymer80 80% Glock frame kits are perfect for her, except that the Polymer80 won’t fall apart the next time you try to move it, is actually easier to put together than your average IKEA dresser, and requires fewer parts and tools.
#7 – Williams-Sonoma – Sig Sauer P226 Legion

If you know she likes Williams-Sonoma, then she wants people to know she enjoys the finer things in life even if they cost a pretty penny. Those finer things still have to be practical and useful though, and that’s why chances are she’ll love a Sig P226 Legion.
#8 – Thrift Shop – Any Police Surplus Revolver

Does she spend a lot of time picking out bargains at the local thrift shop? That means she enjoys the fashions and trends of a bygone era, thriving on their impracticality and awkward appearance while others pass them by for boring, mainstream options. A police surplus revolver will go perfectly with that vintage denim jacket she picked up for $12 last week.
#9 – Whole Foods – H&K P7M8

Is your fridge full of Whole Foods kombucha? She values authentic, original, and unique products which incorporate naturally grown elements and help her feel different while also happening to cost a lot of money. There are few handguns as different as the squeeze cocker HK P7M8, which has natural wood grips, and like shopping at Whole Foods, the P7M8 is surprisingly expensive.
#10 – DSW Shoes – The Entire Kimber Catalog

If she disappears into DSW on a regular basis, you know she’s picking up something she’ll wear once and then put on a shelf to be occasionally gazed at before being passed over for other options. She likes different colors and styles and wants to have options. Do these options have to be practical, affordable, comfortable, or different in any meaningful way? Not at all. That’s why you need to buy her everything in the Kimber catalog. It’ll be expensive, but it will also totally not be worth it.
by | August 15th, 2016
In the beginning, man had a rock, and man was hungry. Then a club came along, and that helped. And then spears, atlatls, bows and arrows, and, finally, gunpowder. For the most part, man is no longer hungry.
For millennia hunters have been striving to increase their reach, to find a better tool for bringing home the bacon. I grew up hunting the Rockies with a handmade flintlock muzzleloader and traditional archery gear, and believe me, I understand the necessity of getting close.

But when it comes time to find winter meat to feed the family, I reach for a powerful and accurate rifle that gives me as much reach as possible because in the West you often get only one opportunity. And if driven to choose between the ethics of letting my kids go without elk meat for a winter or taking a long shot, I’ll take the long shot.
The Hunting Bullet Challenge
Killing humanely at long range (I’ll leave “ethically” out of this) requires specialized rifles, optics, and, especially, bullets.
Early jacketed bullets had soft lead cores and thin jackets, and when big cartridges began hammering them into heavy-boned elk and moose at magnum velocities, they often failed spectacularly.
Most commonly, they would fragment into nothing and neglect to inform the big critter’s vital organs that it was quitting time. Along came John Nosler and a very big, very alive Alaskan moose that wanted to stay that way. After an unsatisfying encounter, Mr. Nosler came away thoroughly disenchanted with conventional bullets.
This happened in 1946, and shortly thereafter John became a bulletmaker and introduced the Partition, a now-legendary controlled-expansion bullet that created the benchmark by which game bullets are measured and which inspired bullet development among competitors. Hunters benefitted greatly. Deer, elk, and moose not so much.
With the advent of laser rangefinders that reliably read past 400 yards, a new world opened up to hunters—along with a whole slew of complex bullet performance issues. While a good rifleman with an accurate rifle could laser the distance, dial the scope, and hit the target with admirable consistency, the bullets he had at his disposal were fickle on impact.
As it turned out, few hunting bullets were very streamlined. Courtesy of air friction, they ran out of steam quickly, a very bad thing when maintaining velocity in order to buck the wind effectively and hitting big game hard is desirable. Worse yet, at long range conventional hunting bullets often had lost so much velocity that they didn’t expand on impact.
Even when put squarely through the lungs, it takes a big bull elk a while to notice a bullet hole the size of a knitting needle.
Match projectiles designed for long-range competition were much more aerodynamic, bucking the wind admirably and maintaining velocity, so they hit authoritatively way out there. On small-bodied game such as Coues deer and on bigger stuff at quite-far distances, match bullets performed well for far-sighted hunters. But the gods of hunting rained hell, misery, and body parts on hapless hunters that shot nearby game with such projectiles.
At up-close velocities, those thin-jacketed match bullets tended to grenade like a varmint bullet and often failed to penetrate through shoulder muscle and bone. And so the search for the ultimate long-range hunting bullet was on.
Desirable characteristics were:
- Superb aerodynamics, which in bullet form are measured in ballistic coefficient (BC).
- Match bullet-like accuracy: to hit deer-size vitals at extreme ranges, extreme precision is imperative.
- Reliable expansion at low impact velocities.
- Adequate weight retention/bullet integrity during close, high-velocity impact to ensure penetration to the vitals.
Combining all four of these desirable elements is beyond difficult, specifically because easy expansion (No. 3) and toughness (No. 4) are opposites. “Soft” bullets that expand easily at low velocity require thin jackets that don’t inhibit mushrooming.
Tough bullets need thick jackets to prevent core annihilation during close, fast impacts. Bonding helps bullets hold together, but is very difficult to do consistently enough to maintain precise accuracy. Accurate bullets almost demand thin jackets that can be built with extreme consistency and that take rifling easily.
It’s a daunting set of demands to place on one bullet.
Before moving on, let’s take a more in-depth look at each of these four desirable characteristics.
Ballistic Coefficient
In simple terms, BC is the measure of a bullet’s aerodynamics and predicts how well it overcomes the air friction it encounters during flight. Commonly displayed in terms of a decimal number, BC predicts how a given projectile will perform compared to a theoretical “standard” projectile.
“With the advent of laser rangefinders that reliably read past 400 yards, a new world opened up to hunters—along with a whole slew of complex bullet performance issues. While a good rifleman with an accurate rifle could laser the distance, dial the scope, and hit the target with admirable consistency, the bullets he had at his disposal were fickle on impact.”
What you really need to know is that most common hunting bullets have a BC of between .320 and .450. Good long-range bullets have much higher BCs, ranging from .550 up to .700 (which is obscenely good).
This is for the most common “G1” model. There’s another standard—the “G7” model—that is gaining in popularity, but that’s another topic.
Why is a high BC so important? The answer is threefold. A bullet that slips through the air easily will maintain velocity better and higher downrange velocity means more energy on impact. Less flight time to the target means the wind has less time to push the bullet off course. And of critical importance: Less lost velocity typically means better bullet performance on impact.
Match-Bullet Accuracy
If you’re going to poke at big game out past 400 yards, you need a bullet that will shoot sub-MOA (basically an inch or less at 100 yards) and preferably ½ MOA. When adrenaline, field positions, wind, and limited time elements are thrown in, you need forgiveness, and there’s no better way to get it than to shoot a superbly accurate bullet in your precision rifle.
Unfortunately, hunting bullet jackets must have thick bases, or they fragment violently and rapidly. The thicker the jacket, the harder it is to produce consistently. Accuracy suffers. Modern manufacturing techniques are slowly refining thick-jacket methods that provide sufficient accuracy, but it’s a time-consuming, attention-demanding process.
Reliable Low-Velocity Expansion/Adequate Weight Retention
Hunting bullets are designed to expand on impact yet hold at least partially together within an engineered velocity window. The expansion is critical for tissue damage, the weight retention for penetration.
If a bullet impacts going faster than designed, complete fragmentation usually results. If slower, little or no expansion occurs at all. Both results are unacceptable.
Purpose-built long-range bullets, from left: Barnes LRX, Nosler AccuBond Long Range, Berger VLD Hunting, Hornady ELD-X.
Maximizing that velocity window—for instance, from a performance parameter of 2,000 fps to 2,800 fps to a parameter of 1,600 fps to 3,000 fps—is extremely difficult, yet of critical importance. It’s the Golden Fleece of long-range hunting bullet engineers.
Various bullet manufacturers have attempted to solve this dilemma in several ways, almost all of which are compromises. Barnes’s LRX, Nosler’s AccuBond Long Range, Berger’s VLD Hunting, and Hornady’s new ELD-X are all worth careful study, but again, that’s a topic for another time.
400 Yards: The Inside/Outside Equation
Now, it’s important to note that inside 400 yards, most conventional, standard-construction, medium-BC hunting bullets work fine. Past that, do your time studying and choose the right bullet for the game you plan to hunt and, most importantly, practice in field conditions until you know without a doubt just how far you can reliably put that bullet into the vitals.
Read more: http://www.petersenshunting.com/ammo/a-dummies-guide-to-long-range-hunting-bullets/#ixzz4yLiQezpW
Once in a while the Boys over at Vice, do some good news Stories. This I think is one of them. Grumpy
