Category: Gun Info for Rookies
Bolt Actions: 101

The indoor range where I first learned to operate defensive handguns was attached to a law-enforcement supply house. I feel lucky that’s where I got my start because of the staff members who worked there at the time. They were kind enough to take me under their wings and teach me how to make the most of the limited financial resources I had at the time.

When I announced that I was ready to buy my first handgun, they walked me around from the new gun section of their extensive and well-stocked handgun case to the side where the used guns were on display. They explained that for folks on a tight budget, previously owned handguns in good working condition could be found for a fraction of the price of similar models in factory-fresh condition.
But being able to sort the real bargains from the boat anchors is a skill that takes some practice to develop. Because I was a newbie with more enthusiasm than experience, they suggested I stick close to the law enforcement (LE) surplus and trade-in guns for my first purchase, especially if I was going to use it for self defense.

LE guns tend to be durable, reliable models purchased new from reputable manufacturers. They are then issued to officers who count on them to protect their lives and the lives of others. This means the guns are well used, but rarely abused. They tend to be carried a lot but shot little. Even though the exterior of a surplus gun exhibits dings, scratches and holster wear, the action and barrel are still in great condition.
Recently, I found retired SIG Sauer P226 pistols for sale on the AIM Surplus website for $379.95. Brand new, the P226 can cost upwards of $900. Chambered in .40 S&W, these particular models have smooth dust covers (no accessory rail) and ship with night sights, factory polymer grips and one 12-round magazine. Additional surplus magazines were available for $14.95 instead of the new magazine price of $40. At these prices, I had to give the P226 a try. Here’s a walkthrough of the audition process the P226 went through and how it fared.

I knew, up front, that I was looking at a top-quality pistol from a reputable company. The SIG P226 is closing in on four decades of military and law enforcement service around the world. Its durability, reliability and accuracy have been proven in the field time and again. Holsters, magazines and accessories are all readily available for this model. Whether or not buying a SIG Sauer for under $400 was worth the investment would boil down to the condition the gun was in when it arrived.
The key to purchasing a surplus gun is being prepared to receive a less-than-perfect product. I have yet to buy a used gun that didn’t need attention or modifications of one kind or another. That’s the trade-off for the deep-dish discounts. That said, guns that are a different grade than advertised, or that don’t work properly, should not be altered before consulting with the seller. Fiddling with the gun may violate the seller’s policies and leave you stuck with a lemon. Make sure to understand what your return options are before making the purchase.

I was quite pleased with the P226 that AIM Surplus sent out, but let’s go ahead and nitpick just a bit. The pistol arrived without a storage case, lock or an owner’s manual. These days, owner’s manuals are just a few taps of a touch screen away. But if you don’t have a case and lock on hand, they’ll run you about $20.
The pistol does have a set of metallic night sights as advertised. But sight sets powered by tritium lamps have a limited working life of 6 to 10 years, after which they slowly fade to black. These particular sights offer a dim memory of the bright green glow they once provided. The P226 shipped with the factory-installed polymer grip panels, but they were rubbed smooth by daily carry. To provide additional purchase, the previous owner applied a piece of rough skateboard tape to the front strap of the grip. That too was well worn and falling apart. And, as expected, where was cosmetic wear and tear to the slide and frame.

How much did these short comings really matter? Not a bit! These are all negligible issues that had little bearing on the performance or reliability of the pistol. The black-nitride finish of the stainless-steel slide was in top condition. The aluminum frame had little in the way of physical blemishes. Some of the anodized finish was rubbed away around the trigger guard and beaver tail grip extension with more rubbed away around the opening of the magazine well. But this surface damage is purely cosmetic in nature.
The features and functions that really count for defensive pistols were in place and working properly. There were no mechanical issues, broken components or worn-out springs. This P226 sailed through a series of bench checks with green lights across the board. The slide cycled cleanly, the trigger pull was smooth, the controls worked properly and the magazines locked and dropped just like they were supposed to.

The pistol was dismantled for a detailed cleaning and inspection. Two steps that folks sometimes forget when cleaning a used gun for the first time are to remove the grip panels and to break down the magazines. The interior of the gun looked almost factory fresh but there was build-up under the grip panels and one of the surplus magazines contained a surprising amount of lint.
At the end of the inspection and cleaning process, I was left with two optional fixes: the dim night sights and the worn grip panels. The night sights have white outlines around the now dim Tritium lamps, so they look just like typical non-illuminated three-dot combat sights. They can be replaced for between $100 to $150, but I’ve opted to save that money and use them as-is for now.

However, one thing I’ve learned is that an uncomfortable grip fit can be a deal breaker no matter how good the gun may be. I knew before pulling the P226’s trigger that the worn smooth plastic grip panels and frayed skateboard tape would be miserable to hold on to with the more vigorous levels of felt recoil .40 S&W ammunition produces. In this case, there were two easy and inexpensive fixes to improve the grip.
First, the skateboard tape was carefully lifted off the front of the grip frame using isopropyl alcohol to neutralize the adhesive. The straight line texturing cut into the front strap of the frame, which had been covered by the tape, was still intact. The plastic grip panels were replaced with a set of Hogue Inc. P226 Rubber Panels (No. 26010). This grip set covers both sides of the grip frame and fills in the back strap with a soft, pebble-textured rubber that hugs the shooting hand like a glove. It made a night-and day-difference in the handling and comfort level of shooting this gun for less than $30. It was definitely a worthwhile investment.

The final portion of the audition was a trip to the shooting range. Defensive handguns, new or used, should be given at least a 100- to 200-round work out before being cleaned again and staged for use. A minimum of 2-3 magazines worth of the ammunition test fired should be the same defense grade cartridge the gun will be loaded with for personal protection.
In this case, the P226 demonstrated acceptable defensive accuracy levels with groups between 3″ to 3.5″ at 25-yards. It proved to be utterly reliable with all of the ammunition it was fed, including practice-grade and premium hollow points. The following table shows the formal accuracy and velocity results using ammunition provided by Federal Premium Ammunition, Hornady and Winchester:

The advice to keep an eye out for LE surplus guns has served me well over the years. Not only has it reduced the cost of guns I simply liked, it’s also turned up reliable firearms for personal protection when belt tightening measures were in place.
Great deals like the SIG Sauer P226 from AIM Surplus are part of the surplus market’s ever-shifting inventory. Do your research, decide what you want and work out a budget ahead of time. Then be patient. That way, when a deal like this one crops up, you’ll be ready to grab it before it slips away.
Specifications:
Distributor: AIM Surplus
Manufacturer: SIG Sauer
Model: LEO Surplus P226 (AIM Surplus Item #: F1SIG22640)
Action: DA/SA Semi-Auto
Caliber: .40 S&W
Slide: Black Nitride Finished Stainless Steel, Rear Cocking Serration
Frame: Hard Anodized Aluminum, Black
Accessory Rail: No
Grips: Removable Textured Black Polymer
Sights: 3-Dot Combat Night Sights
Double-Action Trigger Pull: 9 lbs. 3 oz.
Single-Action Trigger Pull: 4 lbs. 13 oz.
Barrel Length: 4.4″
Overall Length: 7.7″
Height: 5.5″
Slide Width: 1.05″
Grip Width: 1.45″ with Hogue Upgrade
Weight: 33.6-oz. with Empty Magazine
Capacity: 12+1 Rounds
Twist: 1:16 RH
Rifle Grooves: 6
Accessories: One Surplus Magazine
Suggested Surplus Price: $379.95 – Condition May Vary
Grip Panel Upgrade: Hogue Inc. P226 Rubber Panels (26010) $29.95

For this reason, it is important that hunters learn to shoot from positions they are more likely to use when hunting. This article describes my choices for the best hunting shooting positions and the advantages and disadvantages for each one.
There are four primary positions that most hunters and shooters use that I’ll discuss in this article. From least stable to most stable, these positions are: standing, kneeling, sitting and prone. All of these positions may be used both with and without additional external support, such as shooting sticks or a sling.
The descriptions of each position in this article are those that I’ve found are best suited for hunting and will not necessarily be the best choices for shooting in a competition. Additionally, the exact details of each position listed here are the ones that work best for me, which may not be the best for you.
Luckily, there are several variations of each position that you may use in accordance with your equipment, flexibility and the exact situation in which you may find yourself. Finally, keep in mind that I am left-handed, so all of the photographs of me demonstrating these positions will need to be reversed for a right-handed shooter.
Be careful not to let anything touch the rifle barrel in the standing shooting position.
1. Standing shooting position
The standing shooting position is the fastest shooting position to assume. The standing position also typically gives the hunter the best field of view, allowing him or her to see over all but the tallest grass and brush. Unfortunately, the standing position is also the least stable shooting position.
However, this is not really a problem when shooting at close range. As a result, the standing position is most commonly used by hunters in thick woods who need to make a rapid shot at relatively close range. While the maximum range a hunter should shoot at using this position varies, I personally do not like to take a shot past 50 yards using an unsupported standing position.
During all of my years of hunting, I’ve only taken a handful of completely unsupported standing shots while hunting. However, every single one of them was at an animal that I encountered at very close range (5-20 yards) in thick cover. In these situations, my ability to take a rapid shot was more important than assuming a more stable shooting position.
When possible, I use a supported shooting position. Support can come from a variety of sources: shooting sticks, a tree, etc. Of these, a tree is my favorite choice because I don’t have to carry it with me, and there is almost always one within easy reach when walking through the woods.
When using a tree (or similar object) for support, simply take your nondominant hand and form a “V” with your thumb and index finger. Cradle the stock of your rifle in the “V,” and use your thumb to grip the tree and your fingers to grip the side of stock, pulling the rifle snugly against the tree.
Depending on what side of the tree you are shooting from, you may reverse this configuration and use your fingers to grip the tree and your thumb to grip the stock. Either will work, as it all depends on the situation and what works best for you. Whatever you do, make sure that nothing touches the barrel of the rifle, as this will negatively affect your accuracy.
See how my left elbow is unsupported in the kneeling shooting position?
2. Kneeling shooting position
The kneeling shooting position is the second-fastest shooting position to assume, and when done correctly, provides a fairly stable shooting position. Unfortunately, only one elbow is supported when using the kneeling position, which is obviously not ideal. The kneeling position also gives the hunter the ability to see over brush, grass and other things obscuring the target, though not as much as when standing. At the same time, the kneeling position also presents a smaller, more difficult to spot profile.
The kneeling position is a good one to use when the hunter doesn’t have much time to take a shot, or needs to shoot over brush or grass obscuring the target, but the target is too far away to take an ethical shot while standing.
To assume a kneeling position, place your dominant-side knee on the ground at an approximately 90-degree angle from your nondominant knee. If you can, turn your dominant-side foot so that as much of it as possible contacts the ground, then sit on your foot. This will provide a more stable position than sitting on your heel. However, not everyone is flexible enough to do this, so do what works best for you.
Rest your support-side arm on the front of your nondominant knee using the flat, meaty part of your arm just above your elbow. Do not rest the “point” of your elbow on your kneecap, as this will provide an unstable platform.
Though not demonstrated here, the kneeling shooting position may also be used in conjunction with other forms of support such as shooting sticks or a sling to make it more stable. When ample time and resources are available, it is always a good idea to use additional measures to assist you in making your position more stable.
The sitting position provides support for both elbows.
3. Sitting shooting position
The sitting position takes a little more time to achieve than the kneeling position, but is stable. Though the hunter’s line of sight is usually slightly lower when compared to the kneeling position, it is still typically high enough to see over most objects obscuring the target.
This is usually the best shooting position to assume when the hunter has ample time to prepare for the shot, but the circumstances are not suitable for using the prone shooting position. The big advantage that sitting has over kneeling is that both elbows are supported instead of just one when kneeling.
There are several variants of the sitting position, but here I’ll discuss probably the most common: cross-legged.
To assume a sitting shooting position, sit down cross-legged and pull both legs as close to the body as you can. The idea is to get as close to the ground as possible. Push your knees down as far as you can, lean forward and rest the flat, meaty portion of both of your arms just above your elbows in front of your knees. Just like when shooting from the kneeling position, do not rest the “point” of your elbow on top of your knee.
The sitting position is usually uncomfortable the first few times you try it. However, the more you practice, the more comfortable it will become. When used properly, the sitting position can be nearly as stable as the prone position, and experienced shooters can shoot accurately at long range using this position.
Additionally, like the kneeling position, the sitting shooting position may also be used in conjunction with a sling, shooting sticks, a bipod, or some other form of support to make it even more stable.
Note how high the grass is compared to my line of sight in the prone shooting position.
4. Prone shooting position
The prone position is the slowest position to achieve, but it is the most stable. Since the hunter is so close to the ground when prone, this makes it easier to hide from game without being spotted. However, this also makes it difficult for the hunter to see the target if there is any grass or brush in the way.
Because of these disadvantages, the prone position is only the best choice when there is plenty of time to prepare for the shot and when there are no objects in the way to obscure the target.
To get into the prone shooting position, assume the push-up position behind your rifle. Then, lower your body to the ground straight behind your rifle with your nondominant hand supporting the forend of the rifle, as close as possible to being directly below it.
Next, spread your legs and point your toes outward with your ankles flat on the ground. Not everyone will be able to do this, but the idea is to get as much of your body as possible in contact with the ground. Then, pull the butt of the rifle firmly into the pocket of your shoulder with your dominant hand.
Though it is possible to shoot from the prone position in both a supported and unsupported manner, if you have enough time to get into a good prone shooting position, then you likely have enough time to use some form of support. Doing so will dramatically increase your stability and make shooting at long distance much easier. Support can encompass a wide range of objects such as a backpack, a log or a bipod.
When using a “soft” form of support, such as a backpack, place the forend of the rifle directly on it. When shooting across something harder, like a log or a rock, it may help to place some form of padding between the rifle and the object, such as a rolled-up jacket. Do not let anything directly touch the barrel, as this will adversely affect your accuracy.
Additionally, it is always a good idea to use some form of support beneath the rear of the rifle’s stock, if possible. You can purchase a purpose built monopod or shooting bag for this purpose, or you can just use an old sock filled with sand or beads.
Using your support hand, place the bag beneath the rear sling swivel and increase or decrease pressure on it to depress or elevate your muzzle. Using a rear bag makes the prone shooting position even more stable and a good shooter is capable of excellent accuracy when using one.
Note the black and green sock beneath the butt of the rifle.
Keep in mind that there is no “best” hunting shooting position for all situations. Each position has strengths and weaknesses, and it is up to the hunter to choose the position that allows him or her to take the most accurate and ethical shot.
For this reason, it is important that you are familiar with several different positions and have practiced them during the offseason. This will enable you to determine exactly which positions work best for you so you can assume the most appropriate shooting position quickly and make a good shot when it counts.
