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All About Guns Fieldcraft Gun Info for Rookies Hard Nosed Folks Both Good & Bad

Carlos Hathcock Method of Sighting in a Rifle

Sighting in a rifle is an important thing to do if you want your rifle to be dead on when taking a shot.
Which brings us to the Carlos Hathcock way of sighting in a rifle.
For those that don’t know who Carlos Hathcock is, he was a United States Marine Corps (USMC) sniper with a service record of 93 confirmed kills.
Hathcock’s record and the extraordinary details of the missions he undertook made him a legend in the U.S. Marine Corps.
He was a serious threat to the NVA (North Vietnamese Army), which they placed a bounty of U.S. $30,000 on Hathcock’s head.
The following is a story by Gus Fisher a retired MGySgt USMC who talks of the time he met Carlos.
What was unique was the way Carlos had taught Gus to sight in a rifle. Here’s the excerpt from M14Forum:
As mentioned before, I was a very young Marine Sergeant when I came up to THE Marine Corps Rifle Team the first time as the junior Armorer.
I didn’t grow up using high power rifles. We used shotguns to hunt quail, rabbits, squirrels, pheasants, ducks and geese. I used a Mark I Ruger Target .22 pistol for racoon hunting and used a Model 74 Winchester .22 to really learn the basics of rifle marksmanship. My introduction to both high power shooting and long range shooting was in Marine Corps Boot Camp.
On Qual Day in Boot Camp, I ran 7 consecutive bullseye’s from the offhand position at 200 yards. The 8th round was a pinwheel bullseye, but it was on the target next to mine, so I got a maggie’s drawers. Knee High wind got me after that and I fell apart and only shot Sharpshooter in boot camp.
I bought a sporterized Mauser in .308 with a scope on it from a fellow Marine during the time I was going through the Armorer’s OJT program on Camp Pendleton. I used that for ground squirrel hunting, but was never really satisfied with my zero on the rifle.
So after I came up on “The Big Team,” I asked the second senior Armorer – Ted Hollabaugh, if he could show me how to REALLY sight in a rifle with a scope.
He said sure and he would do it, but since we had all the talent in the world at MTU, why didn’t I ask one of the shooters?
Well, I was a young kid and I didn’t know any of the shooters that well – most of them were much older than I. That’s when he suggested I ask Carlos Hathcock for some help.
I didn’t know Carlos then and did not know of his exploits in NM and Sniper shooting. Ted talked to Carlos about it and Carlos stopped by the shop later that afternoon.
Carlos looked at me and said, “So you want to sight in your rifle, eh? OK, thoroughly clean the bore and chamber. Dry the bore out with patches just before you come down to Range 4 tomorrow at noon on the 200 yard line. Have the sling on the rifle that you are going to use in hunting.” Then he went on about his business.
When I got to Range 4 the next day, he had a target in the air ready for me. He told me to get down in the best prone position I had. He checked me and adjusted my position just a bit. Then he said, “Before you shoot.
The MOST important thing I want you to do is take your time and make it the best shot possible. It doesn’t matter how long you take, just make it a good shot.
ALSO, and this is as important, make sure you give me an accurate call on where you think the bullet hit the target.” After I broke the shot, I told him where I thought the bullet had hit.
He checked it by using a spotting scope when the target came back up. He grinned just slightly and said, “not a bad call.” He then took a screwdriver and adjusted my scope a bit. He had me record everything possible about the shot and weather, humidity, temperature, wind, how I felt when the shot went off, what kind of ammo I was using, the date, and virtually everything about the conditions on the range that day.
I had never seen such a complete and precise recording of such things in a log book. He told me that if a fly had gone by the rifle and farted while I was shooting, to make sure I recorded that.
Then he told me to thoroughly clean the bore and chamber, and have it dry when I came back at 12 noon the next day. I was kind of surprised he only had me shoot once, but when you are getting free lessons – you don’t question or argue.
The next day, he told me the same thing. I called the shot and it was closer to the center of the bullseye. He made another slight adjustment and told me to clean the bore and chamber, dry the bore thoroughly and come back the next day at noon. Then we recorded everything possible about that day.
The following day, the shot was darn near exactly centered on the bullseye. Then he told me to clean and dry the bore before coming back the next day. Then we recorded everything about that day.
About a week into the process, Ted asked me how it was going. I said it was going really well, but we were only shooting one shot a day. Ted grinned and said, “How many shots do you think you are going to get at a deer? Don’t you think you had better make the first one count?” There was a level of knowledge and wisdom there that I immediately appreciated, though I came to appreciate it even more as time went on.
We continued this process with the sitting position at 200 yards, then prone and sitting at 300 yards and 400 yards. Then we went down to 100 yards and included offhand in the mix. Each day and each shot we recorded everything possible in the book and that included the sight settings for each position at each yard line. We also marked the scope adjustment settings with different color nail polish for each yard line.
When that was over after a few weeks, I thought I had a super good zero on the rifle. But no, not according to Carlos. He started calling me up on mornings it was foggy, rainy, windy, high or low humidity, etc., etc. and we fired a single shot and recorded the sight settings and everything else about the day. (I actually used four or five log books by the time we were through and put that info all into one ring binder.) I almost had an encyclopedia on that rifle. Grin.
Well, after a few months, we had shot a single round in most every kind of condition there was. Then about the 12th of December, it was REALLY cold and it seemed like an artic wind was blowing, there was about four inches of snow on the ground and freezing rain was falling. He called me up and told me to meet him at Range 4 at noon. I had gotten to know him well enough to joke, “Do you really want to watch me shoot in this kind of weather? He chuckled and said, “Well, are you ever going to hunt in this kind of weather?” I sighed and said, “See you at noon.”
By the next spring, I had records for sight settings for the first shot out of a “cold” barrel for almost any weather, position and range I would use and temperature/wind/humidity condition imagineable. He had informed me months before that was bascially how he wanted all Marine Snipers to sight in their rifles as only the first shot counts, though of course they would do it out to 700 yards on a walking target and further on a stationary target. They also practiced follow up shots, of course and we did some of that as well. It gave me great confidence that I could dial in my scope for anything I would come across.
Some years later in the late 90’s or really early this century, I was talking to a Police Sniper and he was really impressed I knew Carlos. I told him about the way Carlos had me sight in my rifle and suggested he do the same thing as he was a sniper for the Henrico Country SWAT team. He had never heard of that and took it to heart. About two and a half years later, he got called to a domestic situation where a husband had a handgun to his wife’s head and was going to kill her. After the Sergeant in charge and the Pysch guy determined the husband was really going to do it, the Police Officer was asked if he could hit the guy at just over 200 yards and not hit the wife. He said he knew he could (because he had followed Carlos method), so they told him to take the shot. One shot and the perp’s head exploded.
The wife was scared crapless, but unharmed.
When he told me about it about when I saw him the first time a week after the incident, the first thing I asked him if he was OK about taking the shot. He understood I was talking about the pyschological aspects and he really appreciated it. He said, it had bothered him a little that night until he remembered that if he had not taken the shot, the wife would have died. I checked back with him and he really was OK with having taken the shot. I’ve checked back every gun show I see him at and I know he is doing fine about it.
Sources: M14Forum

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Allies Darwin would of approved of this! Dear Grumpy Advice on Teaching in Today's Classroom Gun Info for Rookies Hard Nosed Folks Both Good & Bad This great Nation & Its People

The Code of the West

  • Don’t inquire into a person’s past. Take the measure of a man for what he is today.
  • Never steal another man’s horse. A horse thief pays with his life.
  • Defend yourself whenever necessary.
  • Look out for your own.
  • Remove your guns before sitting at the dining table.
  • Never order anything weaker than whiskey.
  • Don’t make a threat without expecting dire consequences.
  • Never pass anyone on the trail without saying “Howdy”.
  • When approaching someone from behind, give a loud greeting before you get within shooting range.
  • Don’t wave at a man on a horse, as it might spook the horse. A nod is the proper greeting.
  • After you pass someone on the trail, don’t look back at him.  It implies you don’t trust him.
  • Riding another man’s horse without his permission is nearly as bad as making love to his wife.  Never even bother another man’s horse.
  • Always fill your whiskey glass to the brim.
  • cowboy doesn’t talk much; he saves his breath for breathing.
  • No matter how weary and hungry you are after a long day in the saddle, always tend to your horse’s needs before your own, and get your horse some feed before you eat.
  • Cuss all you want, but only around men, horses and cows.
  • Complain about the cooking and you become the cook.
  • Cowboy Drinking

    Cowboy Drinking

    Always drink your whiskey with your gun hand, to show your friendly intentions.

  • Do not practice ingratitude.
  • A cowboy is pleasant even when out of sorts. Complaining is what quitters do, and cowboys hate quitters.
  • Always be courageous. Cowards aren’t tolerated in any outfit worth its salt.
  • A cowboy always helps someone in need, even a stranger or an enemy.
  • Never try on another man’s hat.
  • Be hospitable to strangers. Anyone who wanders in, including an enemy, is welcome at the dinner table. The same was true for riders who joined cowboys on the range.
  • Give your enemy a fighting chance.
  • Never wake another man by shaking or touching him, as he might wake suddenly and shoot you.
  • Real cowboys are modest.  A braggert who is “all gurgle and no guts” is not tolerated.
  • Be there for a friend when he needs you.
  • Drinking on duty is grounds for instant dismissal and blacklisting.
  • A cowboy is loyal to his “brand,” to his friends, and those he rides with.
  • Never shoot an unarmed or unwarned enemy. This was also known as “the rattlesnake code”: always warn before you strike. However, if a man was being stalked, this could be ignored.
  • Never shoot a woman no matter what.
  • Consideration for others is central to the code, such as: Don’t stir up dust around the chuck wagon, don’t wake up the wrong man for herd duty, etc.
  • Respect the land and the environment by not smoking in hazardous fire areas, disfiguring rocks, trees, or other natural areas.
  • Honesty is absolute – your word is your bond, a handshake is more binding than a contract.
  • Live by the Golden Rule.
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Darwin would of approved of this! Fieldcraft Gun Info for Rookies Related Topics

Don't make these mistakes during alligator season Brian Broom, Mississippi Clarion Ledger

Organization, planning and patience keys to success

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Alligator hunting is one of Mississippi’s most challenging pursuits, and among some hunters it’s the most exciting. But those challenges can lead to a frustrating season for some. Ricky Flynt, Mississippi Department of Wildlife, Fisheries, and Parks Alligator Program coordinator, explained some of the most common mistakes he sees.

“I’d have to say that the single most common mistake I see occurring among gator hunters is their failure to be prepared for the ‘Big One,'” Flynt said. “I’m not sure if it’s because they have low expectations of success, or if they simply are not experienced in what it takes to follow up after the harvest of a large alligator.

“For the most part, many hunters have never had their hands on a large alligator at all.  It can be a little overwhelming for a first-timer once they are up close with a 10-foot or larger alligator and see just how cumbersome the carcass is to handle, much less to get it placed into cold storage.”

Because alligator season occurs in the hottest part of the year, Flynt said hunters need to have a plan in advance to cool their gator.

“An alligator carcass can ruin in quick order once the sun rises if there is not already a contingency plan in place,” Flynt said. “Access to walk-in coolers are the best option, but there are alternatives that work well if a person is creative.”

Get it together

“The second most likely mistake has to do with being organized,” Flynt said. “Alligator hunting requires a lot of different equipment, gear, and supplies.

“Just finding a place to store all of the necessary and potential items to be used in a boat and still have enough room to walk around in the boat can be quite a task, much less have it organized. Things can get very exciting very quickly. It can be all hands on deck at the drop of a hat.”

Because of that, Flynt said success can greatly depend on a group’s ability to adapt quickly and have the necessary items needed for the situation at hand.

“That means that everyone in the hunting party knows where everything is located and can get to it quickly,” Flynt said. “So, being disorganized can be the difference in success and heartbreak.

“Prepare well ahead of the hunt. Use a check list and check items off as you prepare your vessel for the hunt.”

Watch and wait

According to Flynt, patience is a virtue when it comes to alligator hunting. Not only can it improve your success, it can improve the quality of hunts for others.

“Alligators, compared to humans, are very patient,” Flynt said. “It is nothing for an alligator to submerge upon the approach of a boat and just go lay on the bottom of the river for 10 to 20 minutes, maybe over an hour, then slowly and stealthily resurface a short distance away with nothing but their eyes and nostrils above the water surface.

“People who are not familiar with alligator habits can run themselves ragged up and down the river approaching alligators only to see them submerge, then aborting to move on down the river looking for another alligator. This type of hunting is less productive and creates more disturbance of alligators and other alligator hunters.”

Flynt recommends that if you see a gator you want to harvest and it submerges, stick with it, be quiet, keep your lights on and watch for bubbles, ripples or moving vegetation.

“If a hunter watches for these clues, there is no need to keep moving when the alligator you are wanting to hunt is right under your nose, so to speak,” Flynt said.

Be safe

Although Flynt said all of his points are keys to a successful hunt, returning home alive and unharmed is the most important aspect of alligator hunting.

“Never take chances that could result in accidents that can result in serious mistakes, injuries or even death for yourself and others around you,” Flynt said. “Things can be very dangerous navigating the waterways at night. In fact, navigating the waters with multiple people and all of the equipment in the payload on a vessel is the most dangerous aspect of alligator hunting.”

Safety precautions:

• Wear personal floatation devices at all times.

• Follow boating regulations and have all safety gear on hand.

• Have first aid kits readily available.

• Keep cell phones in dry storage.

• Always make sure someone outside your hunting party knows the general location of where you will be hunting and where you are launching your boat.

• Keep plenty of water and sustainable food on board.

• Never consume alcohol while hunting.

And last, but not least, “Get plenty of rest,” Flynt said. “Alligator hunting can be extremely exhausting and an exhausted boat operator is a recipe for disaster.”

More Outdoors: This monster of an alligator once roamed Mississippi

More Outdoors: Schooling redfish mean fast, furious action

More Outdoors: Misinformation about chronic wasting disease circulating

More Outdoors: State acquires nearly 18,000 acres in south Delta

Contact Brian Broom at 601-961-7225
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All About Guns Anti Civil Rights ideas & "Friends" Dear Grumpy Advice on Teaching in Today's Classroom Gun Info for Rookies

Something to ponder upon by everyone!


 

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All About Guns Born again Cynic! Gun Info for Rookies

Something to keep in mid when buys that Super Deal of a gun – Caveat Emptor

Buyer Beware, in two parts…

 by 

Part 1-
As the value of ‘old’ guns goes up, so do the counterfeits become more and more prevalent…
At gun shows you may make the find of a lifetime, or get badly burned…

There are companies out there (especially in Italy apparently), making fakes of old/famous guns that are appropriately “aged” or distressed to make them appear something they are not.
Spent about half the day this weekend on the phone with a friend as he tried to buy what was ‘advertised’ as an M-1 Garand NM Type 2, but the seller had ‘forgotten’ to bring the DMP paperwork for the rifle.  He knew I had one, so he was calling for assistance and I was frantically searching the net for verification (and this was one of those shows were no cameras are allowed). Luckily, I was finally able to get in touch with a REAL expert on NM rifles, and got him in a conference call with my friend.
He ended up not buying the rifle, as there were just a few too many ‘oddities’ that didn’t match up, and every oddity had an ‘explanation’ to go with it…
By the way, here is an excellent reference article, even without pictures on the M-1 NM rifles.
http://www.americanrifleman.org/articles/national-match-m1/
This brought to mind the number of fake M-1C/D sniper rifles and the fake 03-A3 sniper rifles that are appearing.  I’m sorry, but $7000 for a rifle without documentation is just patently ridiculous, and some are obvious fakes, others however, would take a good gunsmith or a professional weapons appraiser to catch the errors/omission/fakery.
If you’re serious about buying a rifle like that, or a ‘real’ WWII unrestored 1911A1, or a real Winchester 73 or 86, or a Trench Gun, or a Gen 1 Colt SAA; you are better off going to a real auction house or having an expert on hand to verify the weapon is what the seller says it is…
At least going through an auction house, you do have a better chance of getting papers that prove the provenance of the weapon, and most of them have a provision for examination by an expert/gunsmith.
Part 2-
This from Guns and Ammo on line, a new ‘Peacock’ investigation, focusing on face to face sales based on internet sales (note they didn’t try to buy via an auction or gunbroker or others that I could tell; and they didn’t go into the ‘hood’ and do a random stop on a corner to ask “Sumdood” if he had a gun for sale.  And the obligatory sob story at the end.  Video HERE.  Note the ‘set up’ by the buyer, and the hidden camera pursuit/confrontation?
(why does Bloomberg’s straw buyer program come to mind?)
I really wonder if this is about guns,  or ‘barter’ which is becoming more and more prevalent (and no taxes are collected).  How could you possibly regulate something like FTF unless you have a gun registry, and require proof of ownership a periodically?  Every 6 months is an investigator going to show up and check your safe? You DO comply with the storage requirements, right???
How about just enforcing the laws on the books? Or is that too hard???
Sigh…
h/t JP

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All About Guns Fieldcraft Gear & Stuff Gun Info for Rookies

Mils or MOA which is right for you …or why bigger is better by Frank Galli

© by Sniper’s Hide

Mils or MOA

This debate is never going to end, but we should agree on the facts. Every day we see the uninformed arguments how one angular unit of measurement is better than the other. The truth of the matter is, one is not better, they are just different ways of breaking down the same thing.
Personally, outside of the disciplines like Benchrest Shooting and F Class, I think Minutes of Angle should be retired. We have bastardized the unit to the point people have no idea a true MOA is not 1″ at 100 yards, or 10″ at 1000, but 1.047″ and 10.47″ at 1000. If you round this angle, you create errors at the longer distances. Today we shoot a lot farther than before, 5% of error compounding at an extended range will cause a miss. In fact, this is one of the main reason your ballistic software does not work. You default to MOA when in reality your scope adjusts in Inches Per Hundred Yards.
Shooter MOA or Inches Per Hundred Yards (IPHY) is not a True MOA, and yes it does matter when companies mix them. Having someone question how IPHY is different when they don’t understand we don’t use 1 MOA or even 10 MOA to hit a 1000 yard target is frustrating to explain. If we consider a 308 as a point of reference, we are looking at almost 17″ of variation between the two units of adjustment.
We can quickly point to the adoption of Mils here with the Military to demonstrate the ease of use, but then the Americans reading this will argue how they think in Inches and Yards as if Mils only work with the metric system. Mils are base 10 and unfortunately Mr & Mrs. America thinking in fractions is nowhere as simple.
3600 inches is 100 yards, 1/1000 of that is 3.6″ and adjusting in .1 mils means we moved the bullet .36″ per click at 100. See what we did there, we moved the decimal point. Some people believe an MOA is a finer unit of adjustment. Failing to note that: .3 Mils is 1.08″ at 100 yards. Contrary to popular belief you can get a Mil Based scope that moves the reticle .18 Inches per click. Mil based scopes usually adjust in .1 Mil Increments; however, they do make scopes that adjust in .05 Mils.
While Milliradians were added to the metric system many years ago, it was never designed to be a metric only unit and works outside the metric system as this is an angle. Every angle has a linear distance between it. You should be ignoring this fact and using the angle vs. picking a linear value to adjust your correction. If I am shooting 873 yards away, saying the bullet 6″ off the target is neither honest or accurate. You’re guessing; in your mind, it looked six inches away, but what if it was 9″? Using the linear value is more work, why not just adjust the angle?
Minutes of Angle started out like that too, but unfortunately, companies took shortcuts and ruined it for everyone. It was easier to manufacturer 1″ vs. adding in the .047″. Long range back in the day was between 400 and 800 yards. Read any old school book on ballistic, and it rarely goes past those ranges in their examples. Today we are shooting beyond 1000 yards, so it matters more than ever, you have to take it into account.
Defaulting your program to MOA when you are using IPHY is a significant point of error. JBM online is a great place to demonstrate this as you can include both MOA and IPHY in the output. The same amount of adjustment is accomplished with two different values. Mix these numbers, and the result is a miss. Did you dial 40.1 or 38.3 MOA?
I highly recommend you map and calibrate your MOA scope to confirm it’s actual value. It works both ways, not every MOA based scope is TMOA, some are SMOA. The compounding error is a lot bigger than .47 inches.
One is not more accurate than the other. I can hit the center of any target using either unit of adjustment. Using JBM the same way we can see that both correctly move us to the target. The difference is less than a bullet width. I have no trouble zeroing or hitting the center of a Shoot N C target keeping me squared away.
Which unit of adjustment is right for me?
This is the ultimate question; it should not be up to someone else to answer it for you. Communication is your number one consideration.
What are your friends and fellow competitors shooting?
You want to be able to communicate and understand what a fellow competitor is talking about when he walks off the line. You can convert using 3.43, by multiplying or dividing the competing unit of adjustment against the other. That will give you a direct conversion.
12 MOA / 3.43 = 3.5 Mils
4.2 Mils x 3.43 = 14.4 MOA
Next, you have your reticle choices. You will find more versatile options when it comes to Mil Based scopes vs. an MOA one. That is changing a small amount as manufacturers adapt. But a reticle with 1 MOA hash marks is not as fine as a scope with .2 Mil lines in it. You now have to break up an already small 1 MOA into quarters. The Mil based scope is already breaking up the Milliradian for you.
Pick the reticle based on your initial impression as well as your use. You don’t need a Christmas tree reticle to shoot F Class. You don’t want to use a floating dot bench rest scope for Tactical Style Competition. Put your intended use into the proper context.
There are a lot of articles about the nuts and bolts of Mils and MOA. You can dig deep or understand we are using the angle and there is no need to convert to a linear distance. A Mil is a Mil, and an MOA is an MOA (Unless it’s not because you didn’t check) Today I don’t even teach, 1″ at 100, 2″ at 200 yards, 5″ at 500 yards. It’s an unnecessary step and confusing to a lot of people. Not to mention, it’s not right, that is IPHY, not MOA.
We match our scope reticle to our turret adjustment, so at the end of the day, “What you See is What You Get.” It matches what we see in the reticle so we can dial the correction on the turret. A super simple concept that allows the shooter to use the calibrated ruler 3 inches in front of their nose. That calibrated ruler is called a reticle taking away the need to “Think” about the adjustment, you just read it.
If the impact is off in any direction, you measure with the reticle and then translate that reading directly to the turrets. 1 Mils is always 1 Mil, and 1 MOA in any direction is a 1 MOA correction on the turret.
If you have not made the change to Mils, consider it. You will find it’s much more intuitive. You do not have to be a resident of Germany to understand it, and you do not have to use it with Meters. All my data is in yards, and mils directly translate to whatever range you use.
Sniper’s Hide mission is to uphold the traditions of those who came before us by expanding on the Science of Long Range Shooting while developing the Art of Precision Rifle Marksmanship.

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All About Guns Darwin would of approved of this! Dear Grumpy Advice on Teaching in Today's Classroom Gun Info for Rookies

Some really dumb moves with Guns out there!

https://youtu.be/U4EcWFXTvNo

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All About Guns Gear & Stuff Gun Info for Rookies

Long-Range Caliber, How to Choose the Best for You

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, Ammoland will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.
If you ever had a school teacher that swore that you would use and even appreciate math one day, then that promise is finally about to come true while picking a long-range caliber.

Step one is to define exactly what "long range" means for you. It might be anywhere from a few hundred yards to this.
Step one is to define exactly what “long range” means for you. It might be anywhere from a few hundred yards to this.

USA –-(Ammoland.com)- So, you want to shoot long-range. Excellent! I can offer a 100% money-back guarantee that you’re going to have lots of fun while learning all sorts of cool stuff.
If you ever had a school teacher that swore that you would use and even appreciate math one day, then that promise is finally about to come true. Yes, you’ll need to embrace a bit of math to master the long-range game, but it’s practical and even borders on enjoyable.

Yes, I know. I used “math” and “enjoyable” in the same sentence. On purpose. Just trust me, OK? The first time you press the trigger to nail a distance target, you’ll get a big kick out of hearing that “clang” several seconds later.

Step one is figuring out which caliber is best for you. Notice that I didn’t say “best” but rather “best for you.” There are a lot of great long-range cartridges available, and it’s pointless to try to figure out which is “best” because the answer is always… it depends. The correct question is this: Which ones are good for your intended use?
Here are a few factors to ponder before making your caliber decision

How long is the “long” in Long-Range Caliber?

Depending on where you live and plan to shoot, “long-range” might be anywhere from 200 to 2,000 yards.
Contrary to widespread assumption, bullet drop doesn’t matter all that much because it’s very predictable. That’s because gravity is reliable. Today, tomorrow, and until the world ends from some future Supreme Court pick, gravity will work exactly the same. Whether your bullet drops eight or 18 feet doesn’t matter all that much. With a good rifle, scope, and ammo, you can still make a precise hit every time, regardless of the amount of bullet drop. What does matter is the point down range at which your projectile transitions from supersonic to subsonic speeds. Up to that point on the velocity curve, bullet flight is amazingly predictable. During the subsonic transition and after, the math gets much harder and the results less precise.

The safe bet for caliber selection is to determine your realistic shooting distances and choose a caliber that remains supersonic past the distance of your longest anticipated shots.

Here’s a quick example. While 77-grain .223 Remington bullets are far better for longer range shooting than 55-grain ones, they only remain supersonic for about 750 yards here where I live. Your mileage may vary depending on your altitude and weather conditions. On the other hand, the new .224 Valkyrie, which uses the same bullet diameter, will remain supersonic past 1,000 yards here and out to 1,300 or so yards at higher altitudes.

Where will you be shooting?

Depending on where you shoot, the trajectory changes significantly. This solution is for sea level.
Depending on where you shoot, the trajectory changes significantly. This solution is for sea level.

When shooting at 50 or 100 yards, elevation and local atmospheric conditions don’t make a whole lot of difference.
When shooting at 1,000 yards, your location means everything. To illustrate the point, let’s consider an example using the 6.5mm Creedmoor cartridge.
One load I’ve been using flings a Hornady 140-grain ELD Match bullet at 2,780.3 feet per second.
Where I shoot, elevation is about 30 feet above sea level. At 1,000 yards, this bullet will have dropped 305.39 inches and still be moving at 1,444 feet per second. If I were to travel to Denver with the same rifle and ammo, the bullet drop at 1,000 yards would be significantly less – 244.25 inches.

Also, the velocity would be much faster with the bullet sailing at 1,882 feet per second as it passes the 1,000-yard mark.

Are you hunting or target shooting?

As you can see from the previous example, velocity can vary – a lot – depending on where you will be shooting. In a hunting scenario, it’s up to you to make sure that you’re using a bullet of sufficient weight and velocity, not at the muzzle, but at the anticipated distance down range where it will strike the target. While the Hornady ELD Match in the previous example isn’t a hunting projectile, we can still use it as an example. In South Carolina, it’s carrying 648 foot-pounds of energy at 1,000 yards. In Denver, that bullet delivers 1,100 foot-pounds on the same 1,000-yard target. Don’t get hung up on the illustrations here as realistic hunting distances, we’re just illustrating the point that energy varies not only with distance, but location. It’s up to you to make sure you keep your shots ethical and within your capabilities.
As for target shooting, as long as your bullets don’t miss the safety berm, the energy delivered down range doesn’t matter so much. It doesn’t take much kinetic energy or momentum to perforate paper or ding a steel target. For these uses, you’ll be more concerned with factors like wind drift.

Are you going to buy or reload your long-range caliber ammo?

Depending on the caliber you choose, your costs can vary widely, at least for factory-loaded ammunition. If you decided that you just have to shoot .338 Lapua Magnum, plan on spending five to seven bucks per round for quality pre-loaded ammo. Unless your day job title is Shady Hedge Fund Manager, that can put a severe dent in your wallet. On the other hand, reloading specialty rounds like this can save you a ton if you’re willing to invest some time in the process. We’ll get into details on that in a later article in the long-range shooting series.

Not all long-range caliber rounds are expensive. The .224 Valkyrie fits in standard AR-15 lower receivers and is affordable to buy from the factory.
Not all long-range caliber rounds are expensive. The .224 Valkyrie fits in standard AR-15 lower receivers and is affordable to buy from the factory.

If you’re not ready to take a bite from the long-range caliber reloading foot-long sub, no worries. You can find great long-range calibers with excellent factory loads that are available for reasonable prices. For example, the hot new .224 Valkyrie cartridge lists for $.50 to $1.25 per round. Even the larger 6.5mm Creedmoor round comes in around $1.25 a shot for match-grade ammo.

Semi-auto or bolt-action?

If you have strong desires on the type of rifle action, that will help narrow the universe of possible calibers too. In the semi-automatic area, most long-range rifles are members of either the AR-15 or AR-10 family. Those two lower receiver types tend to limit the numbers of choices because the magazine wells are only so big, so if you plan to fire more than one shot, cartridges will need to fit in either the AR-15 or AR-10 lower receivers. In the bolt action world, things are more flexible.

If you go the semi-automatic route, you may be deciding between the AR-10 and AR-15 platforms to fit your desired cartridges. These two rifles from Palmetto State Armory reflect one of each for the 6.5mm Creedmoor and new .224 Valkyrie.
If you go the semi-automatic route, you may be deciding between the AR-10 and AR-15 platforms to fit your desired cartridges. These two rifles from Palmetto State Armory reflect one of each for the 6.5mm Creedmoor and new .224 Valkyrie.

Ballistic Coefficient

Here comes the dreaded math, but we’re going to keep it simple. We’re going to drill into Ballistic Coefficient in a different article, so for now, think of it this way. This numerical value assigned to every unique bullet defines how “slippery” it is while flying through the air. Stated differently, it corresponds to a bullet’s ability to retain velocity as it flies. If you could fire a Yeti cooler (with the door open) that would have a very low ballistic coefficient number. Of course, it would have the added benefit of bringing joy to Second Amendment advocates everywhere when it self-destructed on impact.  On the other hand, an oversized sewing needle launched from a high-tech magnetic rail gun would have a very high ballistic coefficient.
To get practical, the new .224 Valkyrie 90-grain Sierra Matchking bullet has a ballistic coefficient of 0.563. A .308 caliber flat nose, 150-grain bullet for a .30-30 lever-action has a ballistic coefficient of just 0.185. So, yes, the ballistic coefficient number is (almost) always between zero and one, although the Yeti probably carries a BC of negative 113.9.
So, long-range caliber bullets with higher ballistic coefficients tend to carry their velocity better and as a result, act more predictably at longer ranges. That may or may not be relevant to your scenario. For example, if your goal is to knock over steel silhouette targets at 500 yards, you might be better off using a big, heavy, and fat bullet that doesn’t top the coefficient charts. Like the other factors mentioned here, the ballistic coefficient is one of many things to consider depending on what you want to do.
So, these are a few things to consider when choosing your long-range caliber. Most importantly, think about your typical use case and work backward from that.


Tom McHale
Tom McHale

About Tom McHale

Tom McHale is the author of the Practical Guides book series that guides new and experienced shooters alike in a fun, approachable, and practical way. His books are available in print and eBook format on Amazon. You can also find him on FacebookTwitterInstagram and Pinterest.

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All About Guns Fieldcraft Gun Info for Rookies

CHANGING MAGAZINES: EMBRACE THE REALITY

Smoothly changing magazines is easy - unless everything is buried under a layer of clothing.

Rationalization is a powerful thing. The temptation to convince one’s self that “it’s good enough” or that you’ll “do it later” is right up there with other irresistible forces of nature like gravity and checking your smartphone while waiting in line. 
It’s so tempting to rationalize training shortcuts, especially when the routine in question is pretty darn close to the “right” way to do something. Here’s what I mean. When at the range, whether plinking, competing, of practicing shooting skills, it’s easy to gear up with everything easily accessible.
What I mean by that is that the holster is likely outside of the waistband. The magazine carrier, if you’re using one, is also on the belt. Often, none of this is covered up with a concealment garment, or if it is, it’s not the one you would use in your everyday life travels.
Hey, you’re on the range. Or maybe you’re competing in a local match of some sort. You’re getting repetitions with actions like draws and magazine changes, so that’s all good, right? 

Practicing this way only covers the easy steps. It may be satisfying, but could get you into trouble if you have to draw from concealment.

Practicing this way only covers the easy steps. It may be satisfying, but could get you into trouble if you have to draw from concealment. Above, a Sig P320.

If you habitually practice magazine changes from an “open carry” magazine pouch on your belt, you’re certainly burning in some useful muscle memory – for part of the process. You’re ejecting the spent magazine, loading a new one, and firing. That’s all good stuff!
What you’re not doing in that scenarios is drawing from concealment. It doesn’t sound like a big deal. After all, you only need to reach under a shirt or jacket. That’s not hard. Or is it?
As a level set, let’s review the basic magazine replacement process assuming you’re carrying a spare magazine or two on the belt. 
Release the existing pistol magazine. Visually verify that it drops just in case you have to yank it out in the event of a sticky magazine or jam. 
As you do, move the cover garment out of the way. Hold this thought for a hot second…
Extract the spare magazine with your support hand while aligning your index finger along the front of the magazine with your fingertip stopping short of the top opening. See the included picture for details.
If not already there, move your pistol in front of your face and tilt it, so the magazine well is angled towards your support side. The idea is to have your “workspace” right in front of your eyeballs, so you get it right on the first try. 

Your hand goes where your index finger points, so use it as a guide on the front of the new magazine.

Your hand goes where your index finger points, so use it as a guide on the front of the new magazine. Above, a Sig P229.

Using your index finger as a guide, insert the new magazine, allowing your index finger to slide along the front of your firing hand grip as you guide the new magazine into place. 

Allow the index finger to ride along the front of the grip as you insert the magazine.

Allow the index finger to ride along the front of the grip as you insert the magazine.

Smack the magazine base with your palm to ensure that it’s firmly seated. 
Depending on your preferred method, either release the slide lock with your firing hand or quickly rack the slide with your support hand. Which to choose is a topic all its own as there are pros and cons to each method. 
Resume whatever it was you were doing before all this activity.

What we all really need to practice is drawing and retrieving magazines from this condition...

What we all really need to practice is drawing and retrieving magazines from this condition…

Here’s the gotcha for execution of this routine from concealed carry. By definition, your spare magazines are covered by some type of cover garment, so you have to factor moving that out of the way. Depending on your concealment strategy, there are a couple of ways to do this. 

the thumb hook method works well but requires plenty of practice.

the thumb hook method works well but requires plenty of practice.

If you’re wearing a jacket or coat, you can point your support-hand thumb towards your body and draw your jacket back as you reach for the magazine. With enough vigor and adequate jacket weight, it will swing out of the way long enough for you to retrieve the magazine before the coat swings back into normal position.
If you’re concealing your gun and magazines with a t-shirt or anything else untucked without an open front, things get trickier. This is the scenario where lazy practice habits become exposed. Since you’ll be holding your pistol with the firing hand throughout, you will have to move your cover garment with your support hand at the same time you’re grabbing a fresh magazine. With a jacket, you can sweep it out of the way long enough to shift your hand and extract the magazine. 

With a shirt for concealment, you'll need to hold the shirt out of the way while retrieving the magazine.

With a shirt for concealment, you’ll need to hold the shirt out of the way while retrieving the magazine.

That doesn’t work with a t-shirt, however. You’ll need to pull the t-shirt up and out of the way and hold it there while extracting the magazine – all with the same hand. It’s not hard to do when you have time. However, when in a hurry, you can get hand, magazine, and clothing tangled up easily, thereby costing you time and risking a dropped magazine. You can try a couple of methods. By extending your thumb towards your body, you can use it as a “hook” to lift the shirt up and out of the way, keeping your other fingers free to start grasping the magazine. If that’s too complex, you can also just lift your shirt normally and press it against your body with your wrist long enough to retrieve the magazine. 
Here’s the key point. Both of these methods, or any other you may prefer, don’t come naturally and are prone to hangups. If you practice retrieving magazines from an exposed position, assuming that all will go to plan when you need to do it from concealment while under stress, you’re going to get seriously messed up. To see this first hand, put your pistol away somewhere safe, put your firing hand in your pants pocket so it’s out of commission as it would be if holding your gun. Now have a buddy or significant other yell “Go!” While timing you to see how quickly you can get your magazine out from concealment only using your support hand. You might be surprised at the results. It’s surprisingly easy for your shirt to get caught up on the magazine base plate or between magazines if you carry two. 

While this Blue Force Gear magazine holder still rides outside of the waistband, it's drawn in tight and the magazines are seated deeply. All the more reason for plenty of practice. I've sewn a false base in the front one to make it a bit easier to retrieve.

While this Blue Force Gear magazine holder still rides outside of the waistband, it’s drawn in tight and the magazines are seated deeply. All the more reason for plenty of practice. I’ve sewn a false base in the front one to make it a bit easier to retrieve.

If your results are less than satisfactory, there’s an easy fix. Don’t practice lazy. You don’t need to be at the range to safely practice this skill. Just put your gun away and practice withdrawing magazine from concealment using only one hand. Here’s the key. Practice slowly and deliberately. Once you get the motions perfect and burn them into your subconscious with a couple of thousand repetitions over time, the speed will come on its own. They key is to repeat the exact same movement over and over until you can’t do it with the slightest bit of variance. 
Magazine changes aren’t the only thing that can bite you when doing it “for real.” The more you practice everything – draws, re-holstering, and changing magazines from your exact daily carry configuration, the better prepared you’ll be. Use the same gun, holster, and magazine carry equipment that you put on when going out into the world. Wear the same clothes. “Cheating” at the range or by using a photographers vest in your local IDPA competition may help you shave time off your score and stroke your ego, but it won’t help you when you have to execute the same routines from real concealment.

Tom McHale is a committed learning junkie always seeking a new subject victim. As a lifelong student of whatever grabs his attention on any particular day, he thrives on beating rabbit trails into submission. In between his time as a high-tech marketing executive, restaurant owner, and hamster cosmetology practitioner, he’s published seven books and nearly 1,500 articles about guns, shooting, and the American way.
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Anti Civil Rights ideas & "Friends" Born again Cynic! Gun Info for Rookies

Some more reasons why I own guns!