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All About Guns

Why I like Sporterized or Custom Rifles

 Now I am sure that some of you folks out there are thinking of some of the clunkers we have all seen out there.
Like this poor puppy. (Sorry if this is your rifle It’s nothing personal)

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  Now granted that some of us are not really flush with cash. Hey! I get it as I have been there & done that.
  So I shall not inflict upon you some of the horrors that I have bought and shot.
 Now here is what I figured out a few years ago. As since todays the prices for your basic rifle is frankly just ridiculous. Just take a look one of these days at this!
  Granted that steel is a lot more expensive and so is the other things needed to build a gun. Plus the folks involved need to ate. So I accept that. As this is just the way the world is now.
For Example this should give one a clue.
Image result for old rifle prices back in the 1970's
  So here is what I do. I generally make a circuit of the local gun shops.
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The reason why is two fold.
  In that the Owners learn to know me and what I like. Also to see what is up for sale and what the general prices are.
  I also try hard to go to the local gun shows. Where it’s hard to concentrate due to the usual sensory overload of the place.
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As there usually someone wanting to sell dear old (who ever) departed guns.
What to look for in buying one.
Image result for sherlock holmes
  Now I am a sucker for good wood stocks.
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  If the rifle has it. Then usually it means somebody has put a lot of love and effort into this piece. I can overlook the usually dings caused by use in the field if they are not too bad.
  Also if the lines of the rifle looks good is another good sign. That & if no serious signs of abuse is a good thing.
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Image result for mauser 98 sporter
(Yes I like thumb holes. Since they work for me!)
  If you have followed me this far. Then ask nicely to pick it up and check it out. Manners by the way  are very important in a gun show. Remember that a lot of folks are armed here. (An Armed Society is a Polite Society)
  Usually the Show will have the gun in a inoperative manner by a plastic ban put on by the staff. If you are really interested ask to have it taken of. Then check the action and the internal condition.
Image result for gun that killed jesse james
  One must also consider the caliber of the gun. Especially considering the availability and price of it. I bought a Winchester 43 in 218 Bee really cheap.
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  But then found out how hard it  and expensive the ammo was.  By the by, it was very accurate but finding ammo was too much effort. So I sadly sold it for a handsome profit.
Models that I have the most luck with
Mauser 98’s – I have about a dozen of these in various calibers. From 22-250 thru 30-06 and each of them are great additions to my humble collection.
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(I wish that I owned this one)
1903 Springfield- I think that I am on very safe ground here. A the Famous Griffin & Howe use to make a lot of rifles from the action of the 03’s for the great and famous. Teddy Roosevelt took one on his African Safari.
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(This one became TR’s Son Kermit’s 1903)
  My stance on this is that if its good enough for him. I think that I would be a fool not to have a couple also one time or another. In 22-250, 243 Win, 25-06, 308. 35 Whelen and of course 30-06.
Like this one (Not Mine either but it comes close)
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1917 Enfield
 As it use to be before we became a major Arms Dealer. Our country was always under equipped when it came to our military. This was true in WWI or as some called it. The War to end all wars. Please stop laughing as I am not kidding! They actually thought that until Hitler & **TRIGGER WARNING** The Japs showed up
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  So what we did was to take the Enfield rifles that we were making for the **TRIGGER WARNING***  British Empire.
  Where upon the US Army just changed the caliber to 30-06. The amazing thing was that it was the primary battle rifle for the Dough boys. After the war serious thought was made of making it the primary rifle for the peacetime Army. But the forces backing the 1903 prevailed instead.
 Now the good news for you & I. This was one of the strongest actions ever made by Winchester and Remington. So eventually a lot of them were converted to various Dangerous Game Calibers. I.E. 300 H&H , 300 Win Mag and even up to 458 Win Magnum. **TRIGGER WARNING*** (I owned a 458 a long time ago and turned a squirrel into pink mist once with it.)
  Another interesting item about them. Was that I was told by a gunsmith that the barrels were screwed in with the pressure of one ton. So that the only way to re-barrel one is to carefully cut off the GI barrel.  I was also told a lot of foolish folks got hurt by this over time.
  None the less it is a very solid if not ugly looking rifle. That can still really shoot well if it has been taken care of over the years. They are also usually very priced to sell also.
Martini Cadet
  Once upon a time. I was over in Phoenix as the Wife is a rabid Chicago Cubs fan. So while she is at the Spring Training games. I get to check out the local gun shops.
  While doing so I spied a very strange looking rifle . It turning out to be a Martini Cadet  Rifle that had be done over as a very heavy 22 LR Target / Bench Rest Rifle.
Looking like this one.
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  Now I have been a huge fan of the Movie Zulu since I was a young snot. I was very intrigued by it. Needless to say I paid a huge price for it. (The Son & Heir thought that I had finally & totally lost it.)
  But when it finally got home to the Peoples Republic and on the range. Where upon it turned out to be a tack driver of a rifle. So as the Aussies would say “Keep Her!”
  Some day I am going to build me a another one in 357 Magnum. But right now I am vastly too broke to proceed.
 As a side note. Back in the Old Queens day.
  Some body had the really bright idea to reduce the Martini Henry Rifle to a smaller 22 caliber rifle . To be used as a training rifle out in the ***Trigger Warning*** White Colonies. So as to help train the youngsters in rifle marksmanship.
  I could not even think of having a youngster shhot the fear some old 577/450 round. Since it kicks like a mule!
  It was also then a hell of a lot cheaper to too as 22 LR back then was dirt cheap. Compared to the standard 577/450 Martini Henry round.
Here is a small a scene from the Movie Zulu. Hopefully you will enjoy it as much as I do.
Attachments area
Preview YouTube video Zulu – Final Attack

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Other Stuff

Snake Bites

Hopefully you will not have this problem!

Emergency : Snake bite , what to do and what not to do

Snakes can be friendly
Snakes can be friendly

 
First Aid & Treatment
Snake venom is actually a kind of highly evolved salivary secretion which is used to both kill and digest prey. Venom was not made against man. There are two basic types of snake venom. One affects the nerves (venom of cobra and common krait); the other one blood (that of vipers). Polyvalent anti-venom serum is effective against the bites of the Big Four – cobra, saw-scaled viper, common krait, Russell’s viper. If a venomous snake bites someone, just remember two things: don’t panic; go to a hospital and get anti-venom serum.

  • Keep the victim calm, restrict movement.
  • Assure the victim and do not let him panic. When under panic, it will enhance heart rate and would circulate the venom faster in the body.
  • Remove any rings or constricting items; the affected area may swell.
  • Stop lymphatic spread of venom – bandage firmly, splint and immobilise. The limb, which has been affected by the bite, should be immobilized with splint. Victim to keep the hand as close to the level of the heart as possible – this reduces the flow of venom to major areas. A compression bandage (as firm as you would put on a sprained ankle) should cover the entire limb with the splint. The wrapping should start from the digits and extend till armpit in case of hands and groin in case of bite to the leg.
  • A snakebite victim is under tremendous psychological stress. It is necessary to keep the patient warm. However, no alcohol/hot beverages should be given.
  • •The patient should not be allowed to exert himself in any manner. Do not allow the victim to eat or to drink water in order to keep metabolism at low rate. No water No food is the golden rule.
  • • DO NOT COVER THE BITE AREA AND PUNCTURE MARKS. The wound should be gently cleaned with antiseptic.
  • • Try to aspirate the venom out of the puncture marks with standard suction devices. It has been identified that a suction more than 270 mmHg can initiate the flow from the puncture marks. Suction instruments often are included in commercial snakebite kits. But, the suction should be applied within 5 minutes of the bite.
  • The only remedy for venomous snakebite is the anti-venom serum, which is available at most government hospitals and public health centers. Some private nursing homes have also started stocking it and treat snakebite cases.

How NOT to Treat Snakebite

  •  No ice or any other type of cooling action on the bite. Research has shown it to be potentially harmful.
  • No electric cable, string or rubber tourniquets to be used, this cuts off blood flow completely and may result in amputation of the affected limb.
  • No electric shock, this method is under study and has yet to be proven effective. It could harm the victim.
  • No incision in the bite site. Such measures have NOT been proven useful and causes needless additional injury, loss of blood, infection, waste of time.
  • Do not burn the wound, as it would not have any effect on the venom, which has already entered the bloodstream.
  • Do not suck the wound with mouth. A suction device may be applied over the bite to help draw venom out of wound without making cuts.
  • Potassium permanganate should never be used.

Know About Snakebite

  • All snakes are not venomous – so every snakebite is not going to result in death – it would save people from quacks. And reduce the amount of panic and chaos.
  • Even a venomous bite is not always fatal – because the severity of snakebite depends on many factors like the size of the snake, whether the bite could be completed, whether it was a drybite or not, the age, physique and affected limb of the victim.
  • First Aid would enable a person to buy more time to reach medical aid on time.
  • The only cure which is available is anti-venom serum injection and not quacks.
  • First Aid – if not done properly could cause more harm than benefit.

How to Prevent a Snake Bite

  •  Any unknown snake is potentially dangerous; do not play, avoid any contact with any snake including those of small size, baby, lethargic, dead. A cut off head can keep poisonous activities for several minutes. Make yourself familiar with the description of poisonous snakes in the place where you live.
  • Use torchlight at night – all local poisonous snakes are active in the evening and at night. Pay more attention in the forest, close to bushes, tall plants, etc.
  • Snakes usually don’t bite you without alarm:
    • Cobra – lifts vertically front part of the body (1/3), opens hood, makes hiss, rushes to the aim.
    • Vipers – make a spiral from a tail, bend like zigzag front part of the body, and make a strong hiss.
  • If you meet a snake, go back slowly, don’t do sudden movements, do not turn your back to the snake, do not run, and give the possibility for a snake to go away

Remember

  • Never try to assess whether it was venomous snakebite or not. As a layman one should treat every snakebite as venomous snakebite, as some snake venom (like that of common krait) does not show immediate effect even in the case of a serious bite, it is wise to rush to a hospital.
  • Not all bites from venomous snakes lead to death; many venomous snakes (and as many as 85% of snakes are non venomous) deliver only a dry bite to humans. Even in the case of a full bite, with appropriate first-aid, care and treatment a snakbite victim can fully recover. Very few venomous snakebites are fatal. Just as every mosquito bite does not cause malaria, so every snakebite does not cause death.
  • No attempt should be made to kill the snake to carry it along to the hospital. It would result in delaying the arrival of the patient to the hospital and is potentially dangerous for the person who will attempt killing the snake. Qualified doctor can diagnose observing the patient for clinical symptoms and pathologial tests.
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I think that this some advice about doing First Aid in the Field

wikiHow to Do Basic First Aid

Four Methods:Performing the Three CsCaring for an Unconscious PersonTreating Common Problems In First Aid ScenariosTreating Rarer Cases in First Aid ScenariosCommunity Q&A

Basic first aid refers to the initial process of assessing and addressing the needs of someone who has been injured or is in physiological distress due to choking, a heart attack, allergic reactions, drugs or other medical emergencies. Basic first aid allows you to quickly determine a person’s physical condition and the correct course of treatment. You should always seek professional medical help as soon as you are able, but following correct first aid procedures can be the difference between life and death. Follow our entire tutorial, or find specific advice by checking out the sections listed above.

1

Performing the Three Cs

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    Check the surroundings. Evaluate the situation. Are there things that might put you at risk of harm? Are you or the victim threatened by fire, toxic smoke or gasses, an unstable building, live electrical wires or other dangerous scenario? Do not rush into a situation where you could end up as a victim yourself. This refers to the D (Danger) in DRABC (Danger, Response, Airways, Breathing and Circulation).[1]

    • If approaching the victim will endanger your life, seek professional help immediately; they have higher levels of training and know how to handle these situations. First aid becomes useless if you can’t safely perform it without hurting yourself.
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    Call for help. Call out for help 3 times before you begin assisting the casualty. If someone is with you or approaches, instruct them to call the authorities and be prepared to relay information to them so they can update the responders. It is not recommended that you leave the casualty unless absolutely required, but put them in the recovery position if you need to leave them for any reason.[2]
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    Care for the person. Caring for someone who has just gone through serious trauma includes both physical treatment and emotional support. Remember to stay calm and try to be reassuring; let the person know that help is on its way and that everything will be alright. Other ways to reassure the casualty include asking for their name, if they know what has happened, and then about their interests.

2

Caring for an Unconscious Person

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    Determine responsiveness. If a person is unconscious, try to rouse them by speaking to them; do not be afraid to speak up. If they do not respond to activity, sound, touch, or other stimulation, determine whether they are breathing.
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    Check for breathing and a pulse.[3] If unconscious and unable to be roused, check for breathing: look for a rise in the chest area; listen for the sound of air coming in and out; feel for air using the side of your face. If no signs of breathing are apparent, place two fingers under the chin and gently guide the face pointing upwards to open up their airways. If any debris such as vomit can be seen, it is appropriate to move them onto their side to allow it to get out, which is achieved with the recovery position.[4] Check for a pulse.
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    If the person remains unresponsive, prep for CPR. Unless you suspect a spinal injury, carefully roll them onto their back and open their airway.[5] If you suspect a spinal injury, leave the person where they are, provided they are breathing.[6]

    • Keep the head and neck aligned.
    • Carefully roll them onto their back while holding their head.
    • Open the airway by lifting the chin.
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    Perform 30 chest compressions and two rescue breaths as part of CPR. In the center of the chest, just below an imaginary line running between the nipples, put your two hands together and compress the chest down approximately 2 inches (5.1 cm) at a rate of 100 compressions per minute (or to the beat of “Staying Alive”). After 30 compressions, give two rescue breaths, done by opening the airways, closing the nose and fully covering the mouth hole. Then check vitals. If the breaths are blocked, reposition the airway. Make sure the head is tilted slightly back and the tongue is not obstructing it. Continue this cycle of 30 chest compressions and two rescue breaths until someone else relieves you.[7]
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    Remember your ABCs of CPR. The ABCs of CPR refer to the three critical things you need to look for.[5]Check these three things frequently as you give the person first aid CPR.

    • Airway. Does the person have an unobstructed airway?
    • Breathing. Is the person breathing?
    • Circulation. Does the person show a pulse at major pulse points (wrist, carotid artery, groin)?
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    Make sure the person is warm as you wait for medical help. Drape a towel or a blanket over the person if you have one; if you don’t, remove some of your own clothing (such as your coat or jacket) and use it as a cover until medical help arrives. However, if the person has a heatstroke, do not cover him or keep him warm. Instead try to cool him by fanning him and damping him.
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    Pay attention to a list of don’ts. As you administer first aid, be sure to be aware of these things that you should not do in any case:

    • Do not feed or hydrate an unconscious person. This could cause choking and possible asphyxiation.
    • Do not leave the person alone. Unless you absolutely need to signal or call for help, stay with the person at all times.
    • Do not prop up an unconscious person’s head with a pillow.
    • Do not slap or splash with water an unconscious person’s face. These are movie gimmicks.
    • If the person appears in danger due to an electric shock, you may attempt to move it, but only with a non-conductive object.

3

Treating Common Problems In First Aid Scenarios

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    Protect yourself from bloodborne pathogens. Bloodborne pathogens can threaten your health and wellbeing by causing sickness and disease. If you have a first aid kit, sanitize your hands and put on sterile gloves. If sterile gloves and sanitizer are not available, protect your hands with extra gauze or cotton. Avoid direct contact with the other person’s blood. If you do end up making contact, make sure to clean yourself off as soon as possible. Eliminate any remaining sources of contamination.
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    Stop the bleeding first. After you have established that the victim is breathing and has a pulse, your next priority should be to control any bleeding. Control of bleeding is one of the most important things you can do to save a trauma victim. Use direct pressure on a wound before trying any other method of managing bleeding. Read the linked article for more detailed steps you can take.

    • Treat a bullet wound. Bullet wounds are serious and unpredictable. Read on for special considerations when treating someone who has suffered a gunshot wound.
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    Treat shock next. Shock, often caused a loss of blood flow to the body, frequently follows physical and occasionally psychological trauma. A person in shock will frequently have cool, clammy skin, be agitated or have an altered mental status, and have pale color to the skin around the face and lips. Untreated, shock can be fatal. Anyone who has suffered a severe injury or life-threatening situation is at risk for shock.
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    Provide first aid for a broken bone. A broken bone, however common, can be treated with the following steps:

    • Immobilize the area. Make sure that the broken bone doesn’t have to move or support any other body parts.
    • Numb the pain. Often, this can be done with an ice-pack covered by a towel.
    • Make a splint. A bundle of newspapers and sturdy tape will do just the trick. A broken finger, for example, can also use another finger as a stabilizing splint.
    • Make a sling, if necessary. Tie a shirt or a pillowcase around a broken arm and then around the shoulder.
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    Help a choking victim. Choking can cause death or permanent brain damage within minutes. Read this article for ways to help a choking victim. The article addresses helping both children and adult choking victims.

    • One of the ways to help a choking victim is the Heimlich maneuver. The Heimlich maneuver is performed by straddling the victim from behind and bear-hugging them with your hands interlocked above their belly-button but beneath their breastbone. Thrust upward to expel air from the lungs and repeat until you are successful in clearing the object from the windpipe. IF THIS WORKS, THE PERSON WILL NEED TO VISIT THE HOSPITAL QUICKLY, INTERNAL BLEEDING CAN BE CAUSED WITH THIS METHOD.
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    Learn how to treat a burn. Treat first- and second-degree burns by immersing or flushing with cool water for at least 10 minutes (no ice). Don’t use creams, butter or other ointments, and do not pop blisters. Third degree burns should be covered with a damp cloth. Remove clothing and jewelry from the burn, but do not try to remove charred clothing that is stuck to burns.
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    Look out for a concussion. If the victim has suffered a blow to the head, look for signs of concussion. Common symptoms include:

    • Loss of consciousness following the injury
    • Disorientation or memory impairment
    • Vertigo
    • Nausea
    • Lethargy.
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    Treat a Spinal Injury Victim. If you suspect a spinal injury, it is especially critical that you not move the victim’s head, neck or back unless they are in immediate danger. You also need to take special care when performing rescue breathing or CPR. Read this article to learn what to do.

4

Treating Rarer Cases in First Aid Scenarios

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    Help someone who is having a seizure. Seizures can be scary things for people who’ve never experienced them before. Luckily, helping people with seizures is relatively straightforward.

    • Clear the surroundings to protect the person from hurting themselves.[8]
    • Activate emergency medical services if the seizure lasts more than 5 minutes or if the person is not breathing afterwards.
    • After the episode has ended, help them to the floor and put something soft or flat under their head. Turn them onto their side to ease breathing, but do not hold the person down or try to stop their movements.
    • Be friendly and reassuring as their consciousness returns and do not offer food or water until fully alert.
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    Help someone survive a heart attack. It helps to know the symptoms of heart attack, which include rapid heartbeat, pressure or pain in the chest, and general unease or nausea. Rush the person to the hospital immediately while giving them an aspirin or a nitroglycerin, which the person should chew.
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    Identify someone having a stroke. Again, knowing the symptoms of stroke is important. They include temporary inability to talk or understand what is being said; confusion; loss of balance or dizziness; and severe headache with no precursor, among others. Rush a person you suspect has had a stroke to the emergency room immediately.
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    Treat poisoning. Poisoning can occur as a result of natural toxins (i.e. snake bite) or chemical combinations. If an animal may be responsible for poisoning, try to (safely) kill it, bag it, and bring it with you to poison control.
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I think that is some good advice about floods. Better late than never I guess!

BEFORE A FLOOD (WHEN FLOODING IS FORECAST)

Be alert.

  • Monitor your surroundings.
  • Monitor NOAA Weather Radio, local television and radio stations, or go to www.weather.gov.

If a flash flood warning is issued for your area: Climb to safety immediately.

  • Flash floods develop quickly. Do not wait until you see rising water.
  • Get out of low areas subject to flooding.
  • If driving, do not drive through flooded roadways!

Assemble disaster supplies:

  • Drinking water – Fill clean containers.
  • Food that requires no refrigeration or cooking.
  • Cash.
  • Medications and first aid supplies.
  • Clothing, toiletries.
  • Battery-powered radio.
  • Flashlights.
  • Extra batteries.
  • Important documents: insurance papers, medical records, bank account numbers.

Be prepared to evacuate.

  • Identify places to go.
  • Identify alternative travel routes that are not prone to flooding.
  • Plan what to do with your pets.
  • Fill your car’s gas tank.
  • If told to leave, do so quickly.

Review your Family Disaster Plan.

  • Discuss flood plans with your family.
  • Decide where you will meet if separated.
  • Designate a contact person who can be reached if family members get separated. Make sure every family member has the contact information.

Protect your property.

  • Move valuables and furniture to higher levels.
  • Move hazardous materials (such as paint, oil, pesticides, and cleaning supplies) to higher locations.
  • Disconnect electrical appliances. Do not touch them if you are wet or standing in water.
  • Bring outside possessions indoors or tie them down securely. This includes lawn furniture, garbage cans, and other movable objects.
  • Seal vents to basements to prevent flooding.

DURING A FLOOD

Be alert.

  • Monitor your surroundings.
  • Monitor NOAA Weather Radio, local television and radio stations, or go to www.weather.gov.

Don’t drive unless you have to.
If you must drive, travel with care.

  • Make sure your vehicle has enough fuel.
  • Follow recommended routes. DO NOT sightsee.
  • Avoid disaster areas. Your presence might hamper rescue or other emergency operations and put you at further risk.
  • Watch for washed out roads, earth slides, and downed trees or power lines.
  • Be especially cautious at night, when it is harder to recognize flood dangers.
  • If the vehicle stalls, abandon it.
  • If water rises around your car, leave the vehicle immediately. Climb to higher ground as quickly as possible.

NEVER drive through flooded roadways. STOP! Turn Around Don’t Drown.

  • The roadbed may be washed out.
  • You can lose control of your vehicle in only a few inches of water.
  • Your car may float. Vehicles can be swept away by less than 2 feet of water.
  • Do not drive around a barricade. Turn around and go another way!

Get to high ground – Climb to safety!

  • Get out of low areas that may be subject to flooding.
  • Avoid already-flooded areas and do not attempt to cross flowing water.
  • Stay away from power lines and electrical wires.

Evacuate immediately, if you think you are at risk or are advised to do so!

  • Act quickly. Save yourself, not your belongings.
  • Move to a safe area before access is cut off by rising water.
  • Families should use only one vehicle to avoid getting separated and reduce traffic jams.
  • Shut off water, gas, and electrical services before leaving.
  • Secure your home: lock all doors and windows.
  • If directed to a specific location, go there.

Never try to walk or swim through flowing water.

  • If flowing water is above your ankles, STOP! Turn around and go another way.
  • If it is moving swiftly, water 6 inches deep can knock you off your feet.
  • Be aware that people have been swept away wading through flood waters.
  • NEVER allow children to play around high water, storm drains, creeks, or rivers.

Shut off the electricity at the circuit breakers.
If someone falls in or is trapped in flood water:

  • Do not go after the victim!
  • Use a floatation device. If possible throw the victim something to help them float, such as a spare tire, large ball, or foam ice chest.
  • Call 911. Call for assistance and give the correct location information.

AFTER A FLOOD

Wait until it is safe to return.

  • Monitor NOAA Weather Radio or local television and radio stations.
  • Do not return to flooded areas until authorities indicate it is safe to do so.
  • Do not visit disaster areas following a flood. Your presence may hamper urgent emergency response and rescue operations.

Travel with care.

  • Follow recommended routes. DO NOT sightsee.
  • Watch for washed out roads, earth slides, and downed trees or power lines.
  • Stay away from downed power lines.

If a building was flooded, check for safety before entering.

  • Do not enter a building if it is still flooded or surrounded by floodwater.
  • Check for structural damage. Inspect foundations for cracks or other damage.
  • Turn off any outside gas lines at the meter tank.
  • Do not enter a building that has flooded until local building officials have inspected it for safety.

Use extreme caution when entering buildings.

  • Wear sturdy shoes. The most common injury following a disaster is cut feet.
  • Use ONLY battery-powered lighting. Flammable material may be present.
  • Look for fire hazards (such as damaged gas lines, flooded electrical circuits, or submerged furnaces).
  • Check for gas leaks. If you smell gas or hear a blowing or hissing noise, open a window and quickly leave the building. If possible turn off the gas at the outside main valve. Call the gas company.
  • Report broken utility lines to appropriate authorities.
  • Check for electrical system damage (sparks, broken or frayed wires, or the smell of burning insulation). Turn off the electricity at the main circuit breaker if you can reach it without stepping in water.
  • Examine walls, floors, doors, windows, and ceilings for risk of collapsing.
  • Watch out for animals that might have entered with the floodwaters.
  • Let the building air out to remove foul odors or escaping gas.

Take pictures of the damage, both of the building and its contents, for insurance claims.
Get professional help.

  • Seek necessary medical care. Do not neglect minor wounds or illnesses.
  • Food, clothing, shelter, and first aid are available from the American Red Cross.
  • If the gas has been turned off for any reason, it must be turned back on by a professional.
  • Have an electrician check the electrical system and appliances.
  • Wells should be pumped out and the water tested for purity before drinking.

Your home is no longer a safe place.

  • Throw away medicine, food, or water that had contact with floodwaters (including canned goods).
  • If water is of questionable purity, boil drinking water for 10 minutes.
  • Restrict children from playing in flooded areas.
  • Keep windows and doors open for ventilation.
  • Pump out flooded basements gradually (removing about 1/3 of the water volume each day) to avoid structural damage.
  • Keep the power off until an electrician has inspected the system for safety. All electrical equipment should be checked and dried before being returned to service.
  • Clean and disinfect everything that got wet.
  • Service damaged sewage systems as soon as possible.

When making repairs, protect your property from future flood damage.

  • Follow local building codes.
  • Use flood-resistant materials and techniques.
  • Elevate electrical components above the potential flood height.
  • Elevate utilities (washer, dryer, furnace, and water heater) above the level of anticipated flooding.
  • Consider elevation of the entire structure.
  • Install a backflow valve in the sewer system.

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A Good Article about what to do with Guns & Ammo after a Flood

NSSF: What to Do with Firearms and Ammunition Affected by Flood Waters

by S.H. BLANNELBERRY on SEPTEMBER 7, 2017

Related Tags: Buzz, Column, NSSF

(Editor’s note: For our Texas readers who’ve survived Harvey and for our Florida readers now staring down the barrel of Irma, the NSSF and SAAMI put out some solid advice for those who may attempt to restore firearms or salvage ammo that has been exposed to water.)
Firearms owners who have seen their guns and stored ammunition submerged by flood waters in storm-wracked areas are probably wondering if their firearms and ammunition can be salvaged and safely used.
The Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute® (SAAMI®) and National Shooting Sports Foundation® (NSSF®) point to two helpful documents containing guidelines to assist gun owners in making sound decisions related to safely handling and treating or disposing of these items, emphasizing to always err on the side of caution and safety.
SAAMI, founded in 1926, is an organization that creates and publishes industry standards on firearms and ammunition. NSSF is the trade association for the firearms and ammunition industry.
The SAAMI document “Guidance on Firearms That Have Been Submerged or Exposed to Extensive Amounts of Water” points out two major concerns about firearms that have been exposed to water: parts susceptible to moisture and rust damage such as metal parts, wood stocks and grips, and optics; and, secondly, infiltration of the action, barrel and safety systems by grit, silt and other foreign debris.
Always unload firearms before beginning any treatment process.
It’s important to limit moisture and corrosion damage to the component parts of the firearm. This can be accomplished by disassembling the component parts and using up to two coats of a moisture-displacing lubricant such as Hoppes #9 MDL or WD-40 to clean and stabilize the parts while, importantly, following the product’s directions so as not to damage, for instance, plastic or synthetic parts. Another tip is to allow wood stocks and grips to air-dry and not be force dried by exposure to heat.
The document emphasizes that once the firearm has been thoroughly dried, consideration must be given to having the firearm inspected and serviced by the manufacturer, an authorized service center, or a qualified gunsmith before putting the firearm back in service.

Dealing with Submerged Ammunition

To help firearms owners determine what to do with ammunition that has been affected by water and moisture, SAAMI offers another helpful document, “Guidance on Ammunition That Has Been Submerged in Water.”
Discussed are differences in moisture resistance between centerfire, rimfire and shotshell ammunition, and potential hazards associated with “drying out” cartridges, including possible deterioration and damage to cartridges due to drying methods.
Another serious hazard that could result from using compromised ammunition is the potential for a bore obstruction due to partial ignition of either the priming compound or the propellant powder charge, or both. Firing a subsequent round through an obstructed barrel can result in bodily injury, death and property damage.
SAAMI provides the following cautionary conclusion: “It would be impossible to ascertain for certain the extent of the deteriorating affect, if any, the water may have had on each individual cartridge. Therefore, the safe answer is that no attempt be made to salvage or use submerged ammunition. The ammunition should be disposed of in a safe and responsible manner. Contact your local law enforcement agency for disposal instructions in your area.
Resources:
Guidance on Ammunition That Has Been Submerged in Water
Guidance on Firearms That Have Been Submerged or Exposed to Extensive Amounts of Water
About NSSF
The National Shooting Sports Foundation is the trade association for the firearms industry. Its mission is to promote, protect and preserve hunting and the shooting sports. Formed in 1961, NSSF has a membership of more than 12,000 manufacturers, distributors, firearms retailers, shooting ranges, sportsmen’s organizations and publishers. For more information, visit www.nssf.org.

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Only In America -Legally Buying a MG

I found this on the Web one day. So I thought I would share it you.
Sadly until I move out of the People’s Republic of California & back to America. I will not be able to follow thru on this myself.
 
Grumpy
/www.thegunwriter.com/14837/how-to-buy-a-machine-gun/

http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2016/02/17/how-to-buy-a-machine-gun/
http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2014/05/21/machine-guns-legal-practical-guide-full-auto/

How To Buy A Machine Gun – YouTube

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All About Guns

The Awesome Long Range .22-250 Remington

Image result for 22-250 rifle
Your standard Remington 700 in 22-250. Its a great rifle after you make sure that the trigger group is squared away.
Or if you really want to go “Whole Hog” then. You do a whole lot worst than with a High Wall in the caliber.
Related image
 
Image result for 22-250 ammo
So way back when I was in University, which was a hell of a long time ago. I started to hear and read about this round. That & a few like minded classmates of mine. Told me about what they had experienced with it.

  Now I am very skeptical type of person. So of course I did not believe all the stuff that I was told about this round by these folks.
  As the years passed by & I started my career at pretending to be a School Teacher. I slowly was able to start buying more & better guns.
So one fine day. While out doing the Saturday errands. I stopped by one of the Local Gun Emporiums to see if there was anything worth looking at.
  Where of course, the owner had set up a crafty ambush for me and my wallet. In that he would put up in a prominent place. What he called the Special of the Day Deal.
  So in I go and almost automatically turn my eyes to this spot. This time the gun in question was a Ruger Number 1 in surprise! 22-250. It was also outfitted with a nice Redfield Scope. All this for around $900.
 Well there went my allowance for while!
Image result for ruger # 1 in 22-250
  But let us move on to the Range and what i found out. For once my friends from College were not so full of brown sauce. Now granted that the Number 1 is a fine rifle. Two I was able to get my hands on some really good hand loads.
  It was really the first time that I was able to put a couple of rounds in an area the size of a quarter. Now I know that there are a lot of good shots out there reading this. But for me it was a very nice feeling to be able to do this myself.
(Pity that I gave it to the Son & Heir for a gift. But he lets me shoot it when ever I want to. As he is the best kind of Son)
  What it is good for out in the field?
  I would not recommend it for shooting anything bigger than a small wild boar. The round also is very hard on the meat. That & it can create some really awesome looking wounds.
  But if you want to do some serious long distance shooting like at Coyotes or Ground Squirrels. Then you could do a whole lot worse than this round!
https://youtu.be/jYf607xz1rM
Now for some technical information that is better written Than I could do.
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
.22-250 Remington
22-250 Remington.JPG
Type Rifle
Place of origin USA
Production history
Designer Grosvenor Wotkyns, J.E Gebby & J. Bushnell Smith
Designed 1937
Manufacturer Remington
Produced 1965-Present
Variants .22-250 Ackley Improved
Specifications
Parent case .250-3000 Savage
Case type Rimless, bottleneck
Bullet diameter .224 in (5.7 mm)
Neck diameter .254 in (6.5 mm)
Shoulder diameter .414 in (10.5 mm)
Base diameter .469 in (11.9 mm)
Rim diameter .473 in (12.0 mm)
Case length 1.912 in (48.6 mm)
Overall length 2.35 in (60 mm)
Rifling twist 1-12, 1-14
Primer type Large rifle
Ballistic performance
Bullet mass/type Velocity Energy
40 gr. (2.6g) BT 4,224 ft/s (1,287 m/s) 1,585 ft·lbf (2,149 J)
50 gr. (3.2g) SP 3,945 ft/s (1,202 m/s) 1,728 ft·lbf (2,343 J)
55 gr. (3.6g) SP 3,786 ft/s (1,154 m/s) 1,751 ft·lbf (2,374 J)
60 gr. (3.9g) BT 3,580 ft/s (1,090 m/s) 1,708 ft·lbf (2,316 J)
64 gr. (4.1g) Power Point 3,500 ft/s (1,100 m/s) 1,741 ft·lbf (2,360 J)
Source(s): Hodgdon [1]

.22-250 Remington maximum C.I.P. cartridge dimensions. All sizes in millimeters (mm) / Imperial (inches).

The .22-250 Remington is a very high-velocity (capable of reaching over 4000 feet per second), short action, .22 caliber rifle cartridgeprimarily used for varmint hunting and small game hunting, though it finds occasional use on deer.[2] This cartridge is also sometimes known as the .22 Varminter or the .22 Wotkyns Original Swift.[3]Along with the .220 Swift, the .22-250 was one of the high-velocity .22 caliber cartridges that developed a reputation for remote wounding effects known as hydrostatic shock in the late 1930s and early 1940s.[4][5]

History[edit]

The .22-250 started life as a wildcat cartridge developed from the .250 Savage case necked down to take a .224 caliber bullet. In the early days of the cartridge there were several different versions that varied only slightly from one to the next, including one developed in 1937 by Grosvenor Wotkyns, J.E. Gebby and J.B. Smith who named their version the 22 Varminter.[3]
The .22-250 is similar to, but was outperformed by the larger .220 Swift cartridge. However, it is in much wider use and has a larger variety of commercially available factory ammunition than the Swift. This makes it generally cheaper to shoot. The smaller powder load also contributes to more economical shooting if a person is doing their own reloads. Despite common myths regarding longer barrel life on a 22-250 vs the Swift or other calibers, that is directly related to shooter habits, allowing the barrel to cool between volleys and the speed of the bullet, an important factor for high-volume shooters. Both the Swift and the 22-250 shoot at very similar velocities and bullet weights so barrel wear when used and cooled equally is identical between the two calibers. Due to its rimless case the 22-250 also feeds from a box magazine with ease.
In 1937 Phil Sharpe, one of the first gunsmiths to build a rifle for the .22-250 and long time .220 Swift rifle builder, stated, “The Swift performed best when it was loaded to approximately full velocity,” whereas, “The Varminter case permits the most flexible loading ever recorded with a single cartridge. It will handle all velocities from 1,500ft/s up to 4,500ft/s.”[6]
Sharpe credited the steep 28-degree shoulder for this performance. He insisted that it kept the powder burning in the case rather than in the throat of the rifle, as well as prevented case stretching and neck thickening. “Shoulder angle ranks along with primer, powders, bullets, neck length, body taper, loading density and all those other features,” he wrote. “The .22 Varminter seems to have a perfectly balanced combination of all desirable features and is not just an old cartridge pepped up with new powders.”[6]
Accuracy was consistently excellent, with little need for either case trimming or neck reaming, and Sharpe pronounced it “my choice for the outstanding cartridge development of the past decade.” He finished by saying he looked forward to the day when it would become a commercial cartridge.[6]

Commercial acceptance[edit]

In 1963 the Browning Arms Company started to chamber its Browning High Power Rifle in the .22-250, at the time a wildcat cartridge. This was a risky yet historical move on Browning’s part as there was no commercial production of the .22-250 at the time. John T. Amber, reporting on the development of the Browning rifle in the 1964 Gun Digest, called the event “unprecedented”. “As far as I know,” he wrote, “this is the first time a first-line arms-maker has offered a rifle chambered for a cartridge that it—or some other production ammunition maker—cannot supply.” Amber foresaw difficulties for the company but “applauded Browning’s courage in taking this step”. He said he had his order in for one of the first heavy-barrel models, expected in June 1963, and added, “I can hardly wait!”[6]
Two years later in 1965 Remington Arms adopted the .22-250, added “Remington” to the name and chambered their Model 700 and 40 XB match rifles for the cartridge along with a line of commercial ammunition, thus establishing its commercial specification.[7]
The .22-250 was the first non-Weatherby caliber offered in the unique Weatherby Mark V rifle.

Military acceptance[edit]

Both the British Special Air Service and the Australian Special Air Service Regiment used Tikka M55 sniper rifles chambered in .22-250 for urban counter-terrorism duties in the 1980s, in an attempt to reduce excessive penetration and ricochets.[8]

Performance[edit]

Typical factory-loaded .22-250 Remington can propel a 55 grain (3.56 g) spitzer bullet at 3,680 ft/s (1122 m/s) with 1,654 ft·lbf (2,243 J) of energy.[9] Many other loads with lighter bullets are used to achieve velocities of over 4,000 ft/s (1,219 m/s), while still having effective energy for use in hunting small game and medium-sized predators.
The .22-250 is currently the fastest production cartridge, surpassing the .204 Ruger. This round is loaded by Hornady under their Superformance line and is a 35 grain, non-toxic, fragmenting varmint bullet at 4450 feet per second (1356 m/s) from a 24″ barrel.
It is particularly popular in the western states of the USA where high winds often hinder the effectiveness of other varmintrounds in prairie dog hunting. Many states in the USA have minimum caliber restrictions on larger game such as deer, although most states do allow the cartridge to be used for big game.

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All About Guns

Israel & Guns

**************
Trigger warning! Some Serious Bragging coming up!

Inline image 1
     About 10 years ago. My wife up and told me that we were going on a tour of Israel. Okay says I and off we went.
  To say that it was a trip and a half would be an out right lie. It was easily one of the best vacations that I ever took in my life period.
Now after taking one of the longest flights ever in my life. With a lay over at the Paris Airport. (Where I was very careful to not make any Frog Jokes. The Wife was impressed by my self control for once.)
  We got there in the middle of night at the Tel Aviv Airport. Now I was expecting a very serious hassle to get into the place. Instead all we got was having your passport stamped and out the door to the Cab.
  On the other hand, getting out of the country can be a real experience. As they take their security real seriously. It took us 2 plus hours just to get on the plane home.
  Now I am not going to give the usual blah blah about the place. Or go into the incredibly complex political problems.
  But instead here is what I saw as a Gun Lover.
  In that it seemed to me. That everyone had a gun on them. It was like here with us & our Cell Phones. That and the large variety of weapons carried around was huge.
  From standard issue Gali Assault Rifles, a whole lot of M-16′ s, a M-1 carbine at Masada, To a Browning Hi Power, a whole lot of Berettas and even a Glock or two.
  But strangely enough I never did see an UZI Submachine Gun while there. Go figure!
Image result for uzi
  The other thing was the total acceptance by society of having folks carrying guns. But then Israel is still kind of a Frontier Society. Because it is located in a very tough neighborhood.
   Some other things I like to share with you. Since almost every one was really nice to me & the Wife.
   Since I pretend to  being a “Veteran”. (I still wear a high & tight) The locals once they knew this were very friendly to me. As almost everyone there is drafted into the Army after High School for a couple of years. Even the women!
  The also asked a lot of questions about the US Army. So it was a real ice breaker. Since we were able to have a common experience to share. Then things could branch out from there.
  Also the Israelis that I met were a lot of fun to be around. They are not as hard nosed as some folks believe. They can even be some real jokers at times. Once they know you.
Image result for israeli people
  But when push come to shove they can be as hard as nails. Which can happen in a New York second.
  Another couple of hints if you go. As an American you can join the Israeli Defense Force. A lot of folks have & I have not heard anything bad about it either.
    Also do not go there like we did during the Summer time. It’s like the Hottest & most Humid place. I have been to outside of Mississippi. You just have to feel it to believe it.
  Also do not order a Bacon Lettuce & Tomato Sandwich for obvious reasons. But they do have some great beers there. They even have Coronas Beer.
  The food is pretty good too. The only strange thing is that you can have a salad for breakfast there. (There are a lot of vegetarians there)
Again go figure but it’s their country!
Here is some stuff that helps you get a feel for the Gun Culture of the Place.
Inline image 2
I am willing to bet that is one Teacher who has no discipline Problems with her Class
Inline image 3
You will see this a lot over there!
As a lot of the kids are on leave and the Army encourages them to take their guns with them.
Inline image 7
This place has some of the best beaches that I have ever seen by the way. As they also have some great views!
Inline image 4
Inline image 6
Inline image 5
Bottom line about this place.
I would go back again. But not during the Hot Season.
Hopefully I will be able to soon.
Categories
All About Guns

Now here is a Rifle in 223 Remington. That I would want!

The Rifle that is shown below here. Is a Ruger M77 Mk II Heavy Barrel Rifle chambered in 223.
Hopefully someday I can…..
A. Afford it
B. Find one to buy (They are might scarce around here in the People’s Republic of California)
 
Image result for Ruger M77 MKII .223 Rem
 
Inline image 1
 
Image result for Ruger M77 MKII .223 Rem
Come on Lottery or Some Kind Soul donates some money to the cause!
*Hint there is a place to donate at the bottom of the page!*

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All About Guns

The Ruger # 1 Rifle

 

Inline image 1
  By Now you know doubt have figured out. I really like this Rifle. That & to be totally frank with you oh gentle reader. I really do  think that Bill Ruger was totally inspired to bring this forth in the Mid 60’s.
  In that it is one very pleasing to the eyes rifle. Since there is a total symmetry to it and I will not go on about the ergonomics of it.
  It is like a classic painting or a great looking car. One more dash of paint or line & it would of be ruined. But it wasn’t!
  Another thing that just entered into my feeble mind. Is the matter of engineering. In that with this kind of action. Is that you really can put just about any caliber into this series of gun. From little tiny rounds like the 22 Hornet to all the way up to the “Guns of Navarone” caliber.
 Inline image 2
 (Note to younger readers, Its a great Movie by the way !)
But let us move on folks!
  Image result for ruger #1
  Then there is the ego thing about it. Since when you go to the range and uncase it. All of a sudden a lot of folks will start looking in your direction. As it seems to say. “Hey I only need one shot! That and I can afford it.”
  Also generally in my experience. Ruger wisely decided to put some of the best looking wood that I have ever seen on them. For me at least is is very important for me. As I just hate plastic on general principals.
  But best of all. This rifle for me at least so far. Has been one of the most accurate ones that I have bought right out of the box. Especially with the smaller calibers. Like the 223 or the 22-250 for example.
Image result for ruger #1
  Now is this the perfect rifle? No not really. It does have a few issues that come to mind.
 The 1st being that they are VERY expensive. The cheapest one I have bought so far set me back $700. (It was a 458 Win Mag for my Son’s College Graduation present)
  The other thing is this. Now I do not know about you. But every one of these pieces that I have been around.
  Is that they have the most inadequate and HARD recoil pads. That I have ever seen so far.
  So off to the Gun Shop for a tuneup for you. Even the 22-250 got a new pad. (Yes I am that big a pussy now a days, when it comes to recoil !)
Image result for ruger #1 recoil pad
I could not even dream about shooting a big round like this. With the ridiculous recoil pad that is shown here. It would be a case of No way Jose!
Now here is some more info on this rifle and other technical stuff

Ruger No. 1

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Ruger No. 1
Ruger no1 243 right open.jpg

Ruger No. 1 rifle (with underlever down to open action)
Type Falling Block Rifle
Place of origin United States
Production history
Designer Bill Ruger
Designed 1966
Manufacturer Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc.
Unit cost $1299[1]
Produced 1967 – present[2]
Variants Standard, Varmiter, Light Sporter, International, Tropical, Medium Sporter.
Specifications
Weight 7 pounds (3.2 kg)[1]
Length 36.5–42.5 inches (93–108 cm)[1]
Barrel length 20–28 inches (51–71 cm)[1]
Cartridge Various (see article)
Action Farquharson-Style Hammerless falling block
Sights none, or open sights

Sturm Ruger Ni. 1 falling block action

The Ruger No. 1 is a single-shot rifle, with Farquharson-styleinternal hammer falling block action, manufactured by Sturm, Ruger. It was introduced in 1967.[3] An underlever lowers the block allowing loading and cocks the rifle. Lenard Brownell, commenting on his work at Ruger, said of the No. 1: “There was never any question about the strength of the action. I remember, in testing it, how much trouble I had trying to tear it up. In fact, I never did manage to blow one apart.”[4]
A shotgun-style tang safety works on the hammer and sear. Available with an Alexander-Henry, Beavertail, or Mannlicher style forearm in a multitude of calibers.

Contents

 [hide] 

Available cartridges[edit]

Over the years, the No. 1 has been chambered in several different cartridges, among them .204 Ruger, .22 Hornet, .218 Bee, .222 Remington, .223 Remington, .22 PPC, .22-250 Remington, .220 Swift, 6mm PPC, 6 mm Remington, 6.5 Creedmoor, .243 Winchester, .257 Roberts, .25-06 Remington, .264 Winchester Magnum, .270 Winchester, .270 Weatherby Magnum, 6.5mm Remington, 6.5×55mm, 6.5×284 Norma, 7×57mm, 7mm-08, .280 Remington, 7 mm Remington Magnum, 7mm STW, 7.62x39mm, .308 Winchester, .30-30 Winchester, .30-40 Krag, .30-06 Springfield, .303 British, .300 Winchester Magnum, .300 H&H Magnum, .300 Weatherby Magnum, .338 Winchester Magnum, .357 Magnum, .375 H&H Magnum, .375 Ruger, .38-55 Winchester, .404 Jeffery, .405 Winchester, .416 Remington Magnum, .416 Ruger, .416 Rigby, .45-70 Government, .460 S&W Magnum, .458 Winchester Magnum, .458 Lott, 9.3×74mmR and .450/400 Nitro Express