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N.S.F.W.

I am sure that she is taken! NSFW

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Anti Civil Rights ideas & "Friends" Cops Hard Nosed Folks Both Good & Bad

Another reason why Gun Control will not work here!

Because the Law will never stamp out the evil in men’s heart!

Homeless man stabbed to death with 3-foot sword, suspect arrested

BEN STEIN and EMILY SHAPIRO
Good Morning America
Homeless man stabbed to death with 3-foot sword, suspect arrested
Homeless man stabbed to death with 3-foot sword, suspect arrested (ABC News)

A homeless Florida man was arrested and charged with murder after he allegedly stabbed another homeless man to death using a 3-foot sword, officials said.

Authorities received a 911 call on Saturday afternoon about someone covered in blood lying next to railroad tracks in Lake Worth, about 10 miles south of West Palm Beach, the Palm Beach County Sheriff’s Office said.

Responding authorities found a man dead from “visible injuries consistent with a violent attack,” the sheriff’s office said. A 3-foot sword was also found near the victim, the sheriff’s office said.

After witnesses and a person of interest were interviewed, George Livingston, 51, was arrested on a charge of second-degree murder, the sheriff’s office said.

It appears that the suspect and the victim, David Beckett, 58, got into an altercation, which led to the stabbing, the sheriff’s office said.

Virginia police arrest sword-wielding man dressed as the Joker

Swedish sword attack leaves teacher dead, students injured

Both men lived in a homeless camp near the scene of the apparent attack, the sheriff’s office said.

Livingston made a first appearance before a judge Sunday morning and “is being held without bond pending a full hearing to determine whether he can be released from jail,” according to the Palm Beach Post.

It’s unclear whether he entered a plea.

Livingston, a felon with past arrests including aggravated stalking, is not permitted to carry a weapon, the newspaper reported.

__________________________________

BOTTOM LINE- If somebody needs killing, it can always be done somehow ! Grumpy

Categories
All About Guns

Spanish Mauser Model 1943 with a Rare Air Force Crest

Spanish Mauser Model 1943, Rare Air Force Crest, Non-Import, Blue 23 ¾” - Military Bolt Action MFD 1943-1957 C&R - Picture 7
If one wants to build the impossible rifle collection. Then I most highly recommend going for the complete series of the Mauser Rifle Family.
That is if one has the patience of Job, the cash of Bill Gates and an endless amount of time that is. Anyways enjoy! Grumpy
Spanish Mauser Model 1943, Rare Air Force Crest, Non-Import, Blue 23 ¾” - Military Bolt Action MFD 1943-1957 C&R - Picture 8
Spanish Mauser Model 1943, Rare Air Force Crest, Non-Import, Blue 23 ¾” - Military Bolt Action MFD 1943-1957 C&R - Picture 9
Spanish Mauser Model 1943, Rare Air Force Crest, Non-Import, Blue 23 ¾” - Military Bolt Action MFD 1943-1957 C&R - Picture 10













 






 
 
 

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Well I thought it was funny!

Watermelon Shoot

Attachments area
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Some High End Shotgun Picture Dump

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Well I thought it was funny!

I wish to beg to differ on that one!

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All About Guns

Remington Model 8 & Model 81 Semi Automatic Rifle

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Now a couple of failed marriages ago. I was giving myself some mental health treatment by making myself scarce. From my home, not so sweet home at the time.
So I followed my Traditional Modus Operandi. By finding myself in one of the Local Gun Traders Shops. I know surprised right? At least guns have never let me down.
Where I spied and bought myself one of these trusty rifles in 300 Savage. For a very cheap price and with a couple of boxes of ammo thrown in to boot.
After the time of waiting imposed by the Peoples REpublic of California. I then retreated to the Local Noise Factory / Rifle Range. Where I put it thru its paces.
Okay I could now B.S. you. By saying that it was the most accurate of rifles & that it gave me key hole accuracy. But that would not be true at all.
But the Red Hot Gospel fact is this. It was a lot of fun to shoot. I can also see why it was used in the Fatal Ambush of Bonnie & Clyde.
The only major problem being that the Sight Picture on it. As its not the best that I have ever used on a Rifle. That and the problem of the high cost and rarity of the ammo.
The other major regret is that I had to sell it and some other guns. In order to pay for my Divorce Lawyer alter on. But you know the old saw. Why is Divorce so expensive? Because its worth it!
 
Their first semi auto rifle

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This picture should show pretty well the compact size of the 81.
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That and the very hard to find Police model with high cap magazine.
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What it’s guts look like
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One of the better pictures of the clean lines of this rifle looks like.
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Here is some more & Better Information about this Spitfire of a Gun!


FUSIL AUTOMATIQUE: The F.N. Modèle 1900

BY: CAMERON WOODALL

 
In Belgium it was known as “La Carabine Automatique Browning”, in Germany it was the “Selbstladebüchse Browning Kaliber 9mm”, but in the United States we know it simply as the F.N. 1900.  If the Remington Model 8 is the grandfather of American semi-automatic sporting rifles, the F.N. 1900 is its European twin.  Produced by the legendary Fabrique Nationale d’ Armes de Guerre (FN) in Belgium, this rifle officially labeled as the “Browning Patent Modèle 1900” was a near identical copy of the American made Autoloading Rifle.  In Europe during the early 20th century, the autoloading platform was seen more as a novelty than something of actual usefulness.  This worked to the Modèle 1900’s advantage and disadvantage respectively.  On one hand the FN encountered very little genuine competition but on the other hand its high price and yet-proven mechanics paved the way for poor sales right from the beginning.  Even still, compared to other European firearms of the day, this rifle was fast shooting and elegantly built.  So distinct and intriguing were these rifles that around 100 saw front-line service in aircraft with the French Aéronautique Militaire in the early days of WWI.
The story begins with John Browning who filed several long-recoil patents not just those in the United States.  German Patentschrift 9996 dated Nov. 25th 1902 is the equivalent of U.S. patent No. 659,786 filed June 6th, 1900 for a “Recoil Operated Firearm”.  The year of this patent is where the Modèle 1900 got its name even though FN didn’t manufacture the rifle until a decade later.  Browning established a friendly relationship with FN in 1902 selling the exclusive rights to his long-recoil rifle (and shotgun) to FN on March 24 of the same year.  FN quickly began producing Auto-5 shotguns, but by 1904 such restrictive importation tariffs had been imposed that FN negotiated with Browning to allow manufacture of his shotgun within the United States.  The Remington Arms Co. was eager to work with John Browning and acquire the rights to manufacture both his autoloading shotgun and his autoloading rifle.  FN was first to introduce the long-recoil shotgun, but it was Remington that first produced John Browning’s long-recoil rifle in 1906 dubbed the “Autoloading Rifle” or more known today as the Model 8.
The arrangement between FN and Remington was that the Model 8 was for sales by and large inside theUnited Statesand the Modèle 1900 would essentially pursue sales to the rest of the world.  Despite the large market, the FN 1900 found its home predominately with hunters in and around Western Europe and Canada.  A page from an undated FN catalog lists the country restrictions imposed on the FN 1900,

“The Browning automatic sporting rifle nr243, cal. 35, cannot, neither directly nor indirectly, be sold in France, Morocco, United States of North America, Poland, Danzig included, Ceylon Isle, Princedom of Bombay, Queensland” (p.8). 

Unfortunately however, the FN 1900 didn’t experience the level of sales as the Remington Model 8.  If convincing American hunters to spend their hard earned dollars on a revolutionary (and expensive!) autoloading rifle was difficult enough, doing the same for the European hunter was almost ludicrous.  The autoloading rifle was just too different.  A translation of the original manual reveals that the key selling points used by FN were the distinct advantages of the autoloading platform over contemporary big game rifles.  One excerpt from the manual,

“In addition the gas pressure is partially employed to operate the automatic mechanism, there is a substantial reduction in recoil and therefore much less fatigue to the hunter who is able to keep his gun at ready for immediate follow- up shots.” (p. 5).

Continuing on FN hyped the Modèle 1900’s superiority to bolt-action rifles in its rate of fire and perceived recoil, and superiority to double rifles in its consistent shot placement with repeated firing and moderate cost.  Regardless of any advantages the FN 1900 may have had over other rifles, its sales did not reflect this and limited production makes this rifle quite uncommon today.
 
 
 
 

         FN Production

undated FN catalog – Courtesy Tom Ramsey

Only 4,913 Modèle 1900’s were ever manufactured.  Compared to the Model 8’s production run of nearly 70,000, that’s more than 14 Model 8’s for every 1 FN 1900.  According to FN catalogs, the Modèle 1900 was introduced in 1910 and officially dropped from the product line in 1929.  Other sources reveal 32 rifles were sold between 1930-1936, probably clean up rifles from leftover parts.

 

In 1911 the U.S. equivalent price of the FN 1900 was $57, nearly double the cost of a standard “A” grade Model 8.  To put it more into perspective, for $3 more than the cost of an FN 1900, the American hunter could have had an engraved Model 8D “Peerless”.  Examination of existing rifles verifies that production began with serial number 1 up to 4913.  Case in point is FN serial number 5, with a gorgeous, high grade European walnut stock!  This rifle may be from the first day of manufacture and is indicative that production began with #1 and continued on.

FN #5 – Courtesy of the Creamer Collection

Below is a breakdown of FN production published by Fire! Magazine (1996).

 
 
 
It’s often wondered how did so many surviving FN’s wind up in theUnited States.  The F.N.’s here today did not come from any one place.  It is known that some were vet bring-backs from two World Wars and at least a few were imported by Val Browning into theU.S.  Since the FN was exported toCanadamany have made their way south of the border.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

          Describing the F.N. 1900

 
Produced with the same old-world craftsmanship as the Remington, these rifles are a testament to Fabrique Nationale’s wordwide reputation for manufacturing high quality firearms.  It doesn’t take a scrupulous eye to notice there were probably more hours of labor involved in producing the FN over the Remington.  A close inspection and disassembly of both the FN and Remington rifles will reveal a significantly superior fit and finish with the version made in Belgium, even over 1st year production Model 8’s.

 
The FN came in two versions, neither of which were a higher “grade” than the other.  One version had a standard barrel jacket like the Model 8, the other a solid barrel rib running the length of the jacket.
 
Below is a list of features unique to the FN Browning Patent 1900,

–      Stocks and forearms were made of European walnut hand cut checkered to 20 lines per inch
–      Buttstocks were round knob semi-pistol grip style.
–         Buttplates were made of horn, identical to the A5 shotgun.  2 versions were used throughout production.
–         Forearms are similar to the Model 8 with a less pronounced schnabel tip.
–         Observed firing pins are of the early Model 8 style with no firing pin spring or firing pin buffer spring.
–         Offered in only 1 chambering, “calibre 9mm” equivalent to the 35 Remington.
–         Front and rear sling swivels came standard.
 
 

mid-production FN #24XX – Woodall Collection

 
 

 
Barrel Rib Version
 
The very earliest and the very latest FN’s have ribbed barrel jackets.  This version is undoubtedly the most unique, although it’s also the most common.  The solid rib is 8.75mm in width and runs from the jacket head all the way to the end of the barrel jacket.  It was soldered on which means disassembly of the jacket head from the jacket is not possible, but this also means there’s no potential for loosening of the jacket from the head, a problem common with Model 8’s & 81’s.
 
The purpose of this rib, as with shotguns, is quick acquisition of moving targets.  It was common in the early 1900’s for European hunters to flush game from cover and make shots on the running animal.  Hence the reason these versions have a two position flip rear sight dovetailed into the barrel rib.  One position, 1.5mm in width, is for precise shots like on typical sights, the other is a wider notch at 4.25mm intended for swinging on moving targets.  According to the FN manual, the position for standard shooting is set for 100 meters.  This whole concept wasn’t something that appealed much to the American hunter of the day, but seeing as these rifles were sold primarily inEuropeit was a great marketing tool.

 

 

Plain Barrel Jacket Version

This version though less unique in appearance is considerably scarce, thus according to the 2011 Blue Book a 15% increase in value should be added over the barrel rib version.  Still auction prices for the two versions are about the same and many collectors prefer the ribbed version over this one because it’s more distinctive from a Model 8.  The earliest recorded plain jacket FN during this study was #11XX, and no plain jacket FN’s were observed beyond the 2900 serial number range suggesting that it was only available for a limited time during the first 10 years of production.   It’s estimated from studying serial numbers that this version accounts for 15% or less of all FN’s produced.
 
The tangent rear sight on this version is marked with adjustable gradients from 100-500 meters.  Front sights are different than the version with the barrel rib.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Subtle Differences

 
 

Spending some time comparing the Remington Model 8 and the FN 1900 will reveal just as many differences and similarities.  While many parts are interchangeable between the two rifles, many are not and a select few of the ones unique to the FN are pictured below.
OPERATING HANDLE – The operating handle is unique to the FN and one of the more noticeable differences.  Operating handles of both the Remington and FN consist of 4 parts, the operating handle body, the operating handle bushing, the operating handle plunger, and the plunger spring.  The FN differs in that its operating handle body has fine knurling for better grip and its bushing does not require a special tool for disassembly like the Model 8.  Both operating handles are removed from the bolt carrier assembly in the same fashion.

 

Difference between FN (left) and Model 8 (right) operating handle arms.

It was once thought that the FN was manufactured with more than one operating handle since some variations have been noticed.  The peculiar consistency is that all are modifications done as a result of a missing operating handle bushing.  As previously stated, this part did not require a special tool to disassemble like the Model 8.  Furthermore the FN’s bushing is not recessed into the bushing body like the Model 8, thus it is exposed and more likely to back out of its threads under normal use.  Being such a small part, logic would assume it was easily lost and thus modifications to the handle would have to be made to keep the plunger in place.  During this study both the lowest serial number rifle and the highest had the same operating handle.  All period advertisement and manuals depict this operating handle and bushing.
SAFETY LEVER – While the Model 8 was manufactured with 3 different safety levers throughout production, the FN had only one and it is unique to this rifle.  The two are not directly interchangeable without modification.  The FN lever is .10” longer across the top.
MAGAZINES – The magazine box of the FN is of the early pattern Model 8 magazine with no side springs.  As pointed out by Ed Furler Jr. in the 2nd Qtr 1994 RSA Journal, the magazine guide ribs (vertical slots) are ¼” of an inch shorter in the FN compared to Model 8’s.
 
 
 

FN magazine (top) has shorter guide ribs than the Model 8 (bottom)

 
RECEIVERS – The front face of the FN receiver is less recessed where the barrel takedown screw engages.  This is not obvious until a Model 8 and an FN are placed side by side.

Since the operating handle arm of an FN is narrower, the groove in the receiver wherein the operating handle moves back and forth is narrower in an FN.
 
There is no provision for tang sights.  FN’s did not come from the factory with a pre-drilled tang sight screw hole like the Model 8.  Occasionally FN’s may be found with tang sights installed but these were done sometime after production.  Four during this study were observed.
TANG SCREW SET SCREW – The FN saw the use of a set screw to help secure the tang screw in place.  This same design can be found on FN produced Browning A5 shotguns.
EXTRACTORS – Unmarked extractors were used which differ just slightly from the Remington version.
 

 
 
 
 
FOREARM TAKEDOWN SCREWS – a simple flathead takedown screw was used as opposed to Remington’s swivel type.
 
BARRELS –
           
            ABSENT CALIBER MARKINGS – The Model 8 always had its caliber marked in one of two places (either hand engraved on top of the jacket head or roll stamped on the barrel extension), but the  FN 1900 came without an external caliber designation.  If the barrel jacket is disassembled, a “35” is sometimes stamped on the barrel to specify bore diameter.
           MILLED BARREL EXTENSION – The FN barrel extension has a milled locking lug recess slightly different than the Remington made Model 8.  Pictured here with a 1908 Model 8 barrel for comparison, the milled recess is obvious was probably cut to increase clearance of the extractor or increase reliability of brass ejection.
 
 
 

Barrel extension milling: Model 8 (top) and FN 1900 (bottom).

 
 
 
 
 
BUTTPLATES – The FN was manufactured with 2 buttplates, both of which were at some point used on the FN produced Browning A5 shotgun.  The early FN buttplate was used at least up until the 2900 serial number range, while the “Browning Automatic” buttplate was used on all later rifles.  According to sources on FN firearms, these early buttplates were made of either horn or hard rubber.
 

FN BUTTPLATES – Courtesy of Corey Creamer

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 Variations in Forearm Checkering

After observing FN’s across a broad range of serial numbers, it appears they came with 3 variations of forearm patterns.  The majority of period catalogs and advertisements portray the first pattern pictured below. This pattern is found on the earliest rifles and as late as the 3800 serial number range.  Checking can be single or double bordered.
1ST STYLE PATTERN

 
 
 
2ND STYLE PATTERN
This slight variation is transitional and found on some rifles between the 2900 and 3300 serial number range.
 

 
 
 
 
3RD STYLE PATTERN
Somewhere between the 3300-3800 serial range, Fabrique Nationale changed forearm checkering to the pattern below.  This pattern continued to the end of production and was found on the very latest rifles in this study, #488X and #489X.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

                                   A Glance at F.N. Markings

 
As customary for European firearms, the FN rifles came with a series of markings from theLiegeproof house.  Some of these markings are visible, some are hidden, but a close look will turn up markings all over the rifle.  The test rifle for this inspection was a late production FN with barrel rib, #4319.  Disassembly of the barrel and receiver was conducted.  As is consistent with many other FN produced firearms, the serial number on this rifle was found stamped in numerous places to name a few: the receiver, trigger plate (lower tang), forearm, stock, bolt, bolt carrier (3 locations), operating handle, barrel jacket, barrel and even the tang screw.
 
The following is a description of some of these markings and their meaning found on our test rifle.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Special Grade F.N. 1900’s

Since FN did not have its own engraving department setup until 1926, engraved Modele 1900’s are exceedingly rare.  One indication that the factory consigned the job is that the exterior proofs were relocated to accommodate the artisan’s work, something only FN could have done.  Three engraved FN 1900’s were observed during this study, all in a private collection in the United States.
The first rifle has almost 100% scroll coverage on the receiver, safety lever, trigger plate, magazine, buttplate, and barrel jacket.  This rifle is also featured in John Henwood’s book, “The Great Model 8 & 81”.  Notice the proof and inspector stamps were left off the receiver profiles as to not deter from the gorgeous engraving!  The author knows of no other FN, Model 8, or Model 81 as highly embellished as this rifle.

Highly engraved FN – Courtesy of the Creamer Collection

Another example features extensive engraving and game scenes on both sides of the receiver (pictured below).  Note the proof and inspector stamps are moved from the front shoulder of the receiver to beside the factory roll marks.

A beautifully engraved FN #37XX – Courtesy of the Creamer Collection

 
 
 
This FN features gold line engraving and is thought to be made by FN for a World’s Fair exhibition.  It’s stock was made with “cheeks” not unlike Pre-WWI Model 8’s.
 
 

FN # 36XX – Courtesy of the Creamer Collection

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The elusive Straight Grip F.N. 1900

 
 
Perhaps the most uncommon version of the FN 1900 is the straight grip stock.  FN manuals depict a straight grip version in both the parts breakdown and the rifle function illustration.  It’s not known how many straight grip rifles were manufactured, but only one is known in a private collection in the United States.  This featured rifle (# 48XX) was originally from Val. A. Browning’s personal collection and interestingly enough was special ordered with set screws for the barrel lock screw, bolt carrier latch screw, and the trigger plate screw on the left side of the receiver!  The trigger plate on this rifle is not a Model 8 part, it is Belgian made with a set screw retaining the tang screw.  Its receiver markings are in a different font than standard production FN’s.
 

Straight Grip 1900 as depicted in the FN manual

 

Val A. Browning’s straight grip FN – Courtesy of the Creamer Collection

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

F.N. Accessories: Disassembly Tool and Cartridge Clips

One of the more ingenious features of the FN 1900 was its barrel jacket disassembly tool.  In FN manuals this tool is pictured demonstrating proper barrel assembly takedown.  Instead of a thin, fragile spanner wrench as used with the Model 8, this tool uses a set screw to engage the barrel nut and also notches to engage the jacket bushing simultaneously.  Both parts can be removed with clockwise rotation of the T handles without fear of the components flying across the room under spring tension!  The manual instructs the user to employ the tool first by loosening the barrel jacket bushing then use the set screw to engage and remove the barrel nut and jacket bushing together.  Only one example of this special tool is known in a private collection in Germany. It is pictured below along with an image from the FN manual.

Courtesy of Dr. Dirk Zeising

 
 
 
FN cartridge clips are extremely rare.  Demonstration of the clip is pictured in the FN manual and is of similar construction to the early brass Remington Model 8 clips with a single pair of stop ears.  The author was able to locate only one FN cartridge clip in a private collection in the USA.
 

Chargement du magasin (loading the magazine)

 

FN cartridge clip – Courtesy of Tom Ramsey

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Case Study Points

 
– A total of 95 FN rifles were studied ranging from a single digit serial number to 4,89X.
– 21 rifles were without barrel ribs (approx 24%).
– 16 countries were represented from the serial numbers studied.
– Over 50% of the rifles observed were in private collections in the USA.
– 3 rifles had factory endorsed engraving with a possible 1 in addition
 
 
 
 
 
 

References and Further Reading

 
– The Other Model 8 Autoloader: E.F. Furler, Jr.  RSA Journal 2nd Quarter 1994
– La Carabine Automatique de Chasse Browning: Michel Druart.  Fire! #27, July-August 1996
– Selbstladegewehr Browning 1900: Dr. Dirk Zeising. Deutsches Waffen Journal, December 2009.
– The Great Remington 8 and Model 81 Autoloading Rifles: John Henwood
– FN Browning Armorer to the World: Gene Gangarosa, Jr.
– Browning: Sporting Arms of Distinction 1903-1992: Matt Eastman
– Remington’s Model 8 & 81 Rifles: Pete Dickey. American Rifleman July 1990.
 

 
Thanks for Reading this note of mine this far!

Remington Model 8

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Remington Model 8
RemingtonModel8.jpg

Remington Model 8 semi-automatic rifle.
Type Rifle
Place of origin United States
Service history
Used by Federal Bureau of Investigation
Production history
Designer John Browning
C.C. Loomis [1]
Manufacturer Remington Arms
Produced 1906–1911 (Remington Autoloading Rifle)
1910–1929 (FN Model 1900)
1911–1936 (Model 8) [1]1936–1950 (Model 81) [2]
No. built 26,000 (Remington Autoloading Rifle)
4,913 (FN Model 1900)
80,600 (Model 8) [1]
55,581 (Model 81) [2]
Specifications
Weight 8 lb (3.6 kg) [3]
Length 41.1 in (104 cm)
Barrel length 22 in (56 cm)

Cartridge .25 Remington
.30 Remington
.32 Remington
.35 Remington
.300 Savage[1]
Action recoil-operated
Feed system Fixed 5 round box magazine,(5-,10-,15-round box magazine)

The Remington Model 8 is a semi-automatic rifle designed by John Browning and produced by Remington Arms.[4] Originally introduced as the Remington Autoloading Rifle in 1906, the name was changed to the Remington Model 8 in 1911.[5]

History[edit]

On October 16, 1900, John Browning was granted U.S. Patent 659,786 for the rifle, which he then sold to Remington.[6] Outside the U.S., this rifle was made by Fabrique Nationale of Liege, Belgium, and marketed as the FN Browning 1900.[6] Under an agreement between Remington and FN, the Model 8 would be sold in the US while the FN 1900 would be sold elsewhere. Despite having a larger market, the FN 1900 was sold predominately to hunters in and around Western Europe and Canada.[6] Because of the new and yet unproven nature of the autoloading rifle, the FN model never experienced the same level of sales as the Model 8. Cameron Woodall of The Great Model 8, a website dedicated to the rifle, postulates that this was likely due to the difficulty convincing European hunters to spend money on an expensive rifle that few people had ever seen before.[6] Due to lackluster sales, only 4,913 Model 1900s were ever produced compared to the over 80,000 Model 8s produced.[6]

Design and features[edit]

The Remington Model 8 rifle is long recoil-operated and uses a rotating bolt head. After firing, the barrel and bolt, still locked together, move rearward inside the receiver and compress two recoil springs. Then the bolt is held back while the barrel is returned forward by one of the springs permitting extraction and ejection. Once the barrel is returned, the bolt is returned forward by the second spring; in so doing it picks up a fresh round from the magazine and chambers it. The Remington Model 8 has a fixed 5-shot magazine and bolt hold-open device which engages after the magazine is empty. It is a takedown design, meaning that the barrel and receiver are easily separated with no tools, allowing for a smaller package for transport.
Remington created four new calibers for the Model 8 rifle: .25 Remington.30 Remington.32 Remington and .35 Remington.[4] These cartridges were rimless designs to allow reliable feeding from box magazines. The Model 8 was offered in five grades of finish (Standard, Special, Peerless, Expert and Premier) [7] and was the first truly reliable medium power semiautomatic rifle ever commercialized (1906).[5]

Use[edit]

The primary market for the Model 8 was sport hunting. The Model 8 was used as a police gun, modified to use detachable extended capacity magazines, among other changes. While often thought to not have seen use in World War I, it actually did see service in Europe[8] in very small numbers. It is noted as the rifle of choice of famed Texas Ranger Frank Hamer.[4]Hamer’s rifle was a customized .35 Remington Model 8 with a special-order 15-round magazine from Petmeckey’s Sporting Goods store in AustinTexas. He was shipped serial number 10045, and this was just one of at least two Model 8s used in the ambush of Clyde Barrow and Bonnie Parker.[4] The rifle was modified to accept a “police only” 20-round magazine obtained through the Peace Officers Equipment Company in St. Joseph, Missouri[9]

Variants[edit]

Model 81 Woodsmaster[edit]

In 1936, Remington dropped the Model 8 and introduced the Model 81 Woodsmaster with improvements by C.C. Loomis.[4] The Model 81 was offered in .300 Savage and the .25 Remington chambering was dropped after a limited number of 81s were chambered in this round. It was offered in Standard (81A), Special (81B), Peerless (81D), Expert (81E) and Premier (81F) grades.[7] The Federal Bureau of Investigation acquired some Model 81 rifles chambered for .30 Remington and .35 Remington in response to the 1933 Kansas City Massacre.[10] Production of the Model 81 ceased in 1950.

References[edit]

  1. Jump up to:a b c d “Model 8 Autoloading Centerfire Rifle”. Remington Arms. Retrieved 26 December 2012.
  2. Jump up to:a b “Model 81 Woodsmaster Autoloading Centerfire Rifle”. Remington Arms. Retrieved 26 December 2012.
  3. Jump up^ Miller, David. The History of Browning Firearms. p. 75
Categories
All About Guns

The Model 24 Marlin Hammer shotgun in 12 gauge

Nice wood on this scattergun!
 - Model 24 Pump-fancy checkered wood-Check it out!!
 - Model 24 Pump-fancy checkered wood-Check it out!! - Picture 2
 - Model 24 Pump-fancy checkered wood-Check it out!! - Picture 3
 - Model 24 Pump-fancy checkered wood-Check it out!! - Picture 4
 - Model 24 Pump-fancy checkered wood-Check it out!! - Picture 5
 - Model 24 Pump-fancy checkered wood-Check it out!! - Picture 6
 - Model 24 Pump-fancy checkered wood-Check it out!! - Picture 7
 - Model 24 Pump-fancy checkered wood-Check it out!! - Picture 8
Image result for The Model 24 Marlin Hammer shotgun
Image result for The Model 24 Marlin Hammer shotgun
The take down modelImage result for The Model 24 Marlin Hammer shotgun
Image result for The Model 24 Marlin Hammer shotgun
 

Marlin Hammer Pump Shotgun Disassembly in Pictures

Postby Bob Smalser » Sun Nov 29, 2009 8:00 pm

I thought I’d write up a few of these that aren’t in the disassembly manuals as they come along.
The gun depicted here is a Model 30G in 20 gauge I restored for use by a grandchild. Sold under a hardware store label of National Firearms Company circa 1915, it has the new model recoil safety lock and pinch-block takedown, but retains the simpler wood and forearm styles of the older Models 16 and 1898. The basic mechanism however, is sufficiently close to other Marlin Hammer Pumps that this can serve as a general guide for disassembly of Models 1898, 16, 17, 19, 21, 24, 26, 42 and 49.
Avoid ordering parts unless you are sure you need them, as old guns can be so jammed with century-old oil turned to hard varnish and mixed with concreted powder residue and fragments of paper shell crimps that a detailed cleaning may be all the gun requires. They all benefit from a thorough soaking in Kroil or other thin penetrating fluid to free up frozen screws and pins. Just try to keep the oil out of the inletting.
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Insure the gun is unloaded and the bore is clear. Remove the stock bolt and carefully pull off the buttstock. If you don’t take down the gun first you’ll have better control to gently strike the comb and pistol grip of a reluctant stock alternately with the heel of your hand to prevent the racking that can spit the edges of the inletting. Plus leaving the forearm slide mounted until it’s time to remove the bolt will aid the safety and function checks you’ll perform during disassembly.
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My fingers are pointing to the trigger guard screw on the left and the recoil safety lock screw on the right. Loosen the recoil lock screw but don’t remove it yet.
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Remove the tension on the hammer. Loosen its mounting screw slightly, compress the hammer spring using your fingers and pull it aside from the roller block on the bottom of the hammer. Then remove the hammer screw and pull the screw from the frame, leaving the hammer loosely in place for now.
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Remove both trigger guard screws, pull the trigger guard assembly from the bottom of the frame, reinstall the screws in the trigger guard and the stock bolt screw to keep track of them and set it aside. Pull the loose hammer out the bottom of the frame, remount its screw correctly oriented in its mating hole to keep track of it, and also set it aside.
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Note the relationships between the carrier on the left, the recoil lock in the center, the locking bolt atop them, and the safety sear (photo below) still mounted in the frame on the right. Pulling the knurled surface of the recoil lock arm to the rear unlocks the locking bolt above it. Then gently racking the slide arm rearward clicks the bolt out of battery, and moves the carrier downward to pick up the next shell until the carrier arm strikes the shaft of the recoil lock screw. This serves as the rearward bolt stop, which is useful to understand in diagnosing any later problems.
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Remount the hammer without the trigger guard and observe the interface between the safety sear and hammer. The hammer has three notches….the upper notch is engaged by the safety sear until the bolt moves forward and locks into battery, whereby a cam slot milled into the bottom of the bolt engages the cam on the top of the spring-loaded safety sear, disengaging it and allowing the hammer to engage the trigger/sear with the full and half cock notches on the lower end of the hammer.
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The safety sear can be removed now. It has an integral leaf spring beneath it and pressure should be applied on it with a finger to loosen and pull its screw.
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The recoil lock is spring loaded by a plunger that interfaces with the trigger guard frame, and a separate spring-loaded cam on its upper, inside surface that interfaces with a cam slot milled into the carrier.
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It functions as an inertia block and must be free to pivot on its shaft. As the gun is fired the frame recoils and the block tips forward, unlocking the locking arm hook from its mating cutout on the bolt, freeing the bolt to be clicked out of battery and racked to the rear using the slide handle. If the shell hangs fire (which is rare today but was common a century ago), the inertia block doesn’t move and the hook prevents the bolt from being racked out of battery without the shooter (hopefully) pausing to think about what happened and wait the required 30 seconds before manually depressing the knurled surface of the locking arm to cycle the action.
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Note the hook faces rearward, and the block, cam and carrier/frame mating surfaces are polished for easy movement. The plunger and cam have coil springs and are mounted using pins that facilitate removal for spring replacement and cleaning. When remounting, avoid over tightening the screw.
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At the center inside surface of the carrier arm you can see the cutout for the recoil lock’s upper cam. The carrier is removed by dismounting its screw, lifting the arm and pulling it rearward to disengage its positioning slot from the round stud it mates with on the inside link of the locking bolt. Also note if you cycle the bolt rearward, there is no longer a bolt stop mounted and the carrier mating stud will disengage from the track at the rear of the carrier, yet the carrier will appear normal. Try this a few times to see the relationships, as this can cause problems during reassembly.
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Now is time to take down the gun. Grab and squeeze the pinch block and pull the magazine tube forward until the left-side detent pin projects outward to hold it in place. Insure the bolt is in battery and pull the slide arm forward and out, disengaging it from the locking bolt link and out of the receiver. Note that the tube’s mounting screw and its corresponding bug (locking) screw are now exposed for further disassembly….the bug screw is removed first and can be accessed by grasping the pinch block and sliding the tube forward slightly. The tube should look like the top photo below.
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Loosen the adjusting collar by backing out its screw and if tight, tapping it with a brass hammer. The collar and barrel threads are left-handed, so turn them to the right to loosen and remove the barrel assembly.
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Remove the bolt by clicking it out of battery, pulling it all the way to the rear, and rotating the bolt’s tail to the right laterally and clockwise out of the bolt opening. The gun’s locking lug is the rear face of the frame at the bolt opening. If it or its mating surface at the rear of the locking bolt appear to be dinged up or worn, take the gun to a qualified smith and have the headspace checked before test firing. Here I’ve left the safety sear in so you can see the cam that interfaces with a corresponding shaped slot on the bottom of the locking bolt. The vertical slot next to it is the cutout for the carrier arm. Beneath the tip of the pointer is a stopped slot that can make removing and installing the bolt assembly difficult. On the outside of the locking bolt link there is a corresponding stud (photo below) that must be both in the correct position and rotated into that slot for the bolt to fit its track without jamming.
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The bolt assembly as it appears when locked into battery and ready to fire. The locking lug on the frame mates with the entire rear end of the locking bolt as depicted by the pointer. Also note the cutout on the rear of the locking bolt for the recoil safety hook, and the rectangular stud (mentioned in the above paragraph) milled as part of the bolt link above the slide-arm mortise. The stud is there to insure the bolt cannot move in and out of battery except where the frame has a cutout that permits the stud to change its angle. In battery is the only position where the firing pin should project beyond the bolt face, otherwise the pin is broken. Check that. Also note the shape of the slide arm mortise that forms the major part of the bolt link, and how it interfaces with its corresponding round stud milled into the end of the slide arm.
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The bolt as it appears when out of battery. Note the rectangular stud on the link is now parallel to the corresponding slot in the frame….the bolt must be out of battery to mount and dismount from the frame. In this position the firing pin should be blocked from projecting beyond the bolt face. Check that, too. Before further disassembly, click the locking bolt in and out of battery a few times to note how its spring-loaded catch functions.
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Disassemble the bolt by removing the smaller bug screw and screw-slotted pin on the right side, separating the locking and the breech bolt sections. Note how the one-piece firing pin is oriented in the breech bolt, and that the locking bolt and link is a one-piece forging.
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The firing pin is removed by driving out its mounting pin at the rear of the breech bolt. Once removed, note the mating slot for that pin to facilitate reassembly.
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Note the two extractor mounting pins in the breech bolt. The right-hand pin also simultaneously captures the locking bolt catch and its coil spring in a corresponding slot in the catch housing.
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The safest method to disassemble the extractors for cleaning is to place the breech bolt in a drill press vise or C-clamp to prevent losing parts by sudden release of spring tension. The bolt in the photo is from a Model 31, but the same relationships apply.
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The same Model 31 bolt with the extractors removed and their corresponding mortises cleaned. I don’t recommend omitting this task, as mortises that appear clean enough from the outside are often full of crud and even bits of paper shell crimp, and dirty extractors that apply unequal pressure to the sides of the rim either on the forward or rearward stroke can cause a number of malfunctions not otherwise explained.
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The ejector is removed by simply lifting it out of its corresponding mortise in the frame. Note it has an integral leaf spring on the back and is captured in place only by the breech bolt riding correctly in its frame slots. It can be a serious source of jamming if the spring is broken or the bolt is forced into place out of track. Some Marlin models have a screw that holds the rear of the ejector in place. This is the most vulnerable spring in the gun, because raindrops entering an open bolt easily seep into the mortise and rust the spring, eventually causing it to break. Broken or partially broken ejector springs can appear to function normally yet can be the source of a number of unexplained problems, so like the extractors, don’t fail to remove, clean and check it thoroughly. Numrich carries new-made replacements, but are oversize and require fitting.
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The cartridge stops also have leaf springs integral to their rear surfaces, and also require removal to clean beneath them. Removal is via a fine, top-threaded screw with a shaft on its lower end that fits into a hole on the opposite side of the cartridge stop mortise in the frame. The screw is fragile and disassembly requires a jeweler’s screwdriver. Scrape any crud out from the top of the screwhead and clean the slot using a sharp ice pick before soaking for several days in Kroil or other thin penetrating fluid before attempting to dismantle.
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Study the relationships between the stops to prevent confusion upon reassembly. Some Marlin models have a one-piece stop, this model has a two-piece stop.
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Final disassembly of the trigger guard assembly for cleaning is straightforward. The trigger-sear spring is held by a screw accessed after removing the hammer spring, the gun’s sear is the tip of the trigger, and the trigger is held in place by a pin through the frame.
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Final disassembly of the barrel assembly is also straightforward, here showing the relationship of the pinch block parts, with the magazine tube spring and follower still in the tube.
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The forearm must be removed to dismount the forend slide from the magazine tube. This model has three mounting screws in escutcheons held in place by bug screws, later models have a full-length steel tube and the wood captured by a forend cap nut with fine, right-hand threading. A padded set of large pliers is often required to remove these cap nuts, sometimes without success. Be prepared to clean and even refinish around them rather than break the fragile forearms, which are difficult to find or turn replacements on the lathe. If your forearm wood is missing or hopeless, Wenig may have one in their CNC stock-milling software and may be able to make one for you. Model 12/97 replacement forearms are common, can be had in the 30-dollar range and may be an option, although the tube diameters are slightly different between Winchester and Marlin.
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The last step is optional, which is to drive off the dovetailed magazine band from right to left using a brass punch in order to facilitate cleaning around it.
Reassembly Reminders:
The bolt is reinserted out of battery, but must be pressed all the way forward and clicked into battery for the remainder of the reassembly.
The bolt is reinserted link first from the right side of the frame with the rear of the bolt held outboard so the rectangular stud on the link can be moved forward sufficiently to engage its stopped slot in the frame. At the same time, press the ejector into its mortise in the frame and hold it place with your finger to insure it remains in its correct position.
When the pump arm pulls the bolt forward, it should automatically click the bolt into battery.
Reinstall the secondary sear after the bolt, but before the bolt is clicked into battery.
Click the bolt into battery by pushing on the front of the locking bolt link before installing the carrier. Install the carrier by engaging the front of the carrier slot into the round stud on the inside link of the locking bolt and sliding the carrier forward until its screw hole aligns with the frame.
When installing the recoil lock, don’t tighten the screw until the trigger guard is reinstalled and then tighten it only lightly.
The Model 1898 Marlin enjoyed a poor reputation because supposedly an overloaded shell fired in the original design allowed the bolt to exit the rear of the receiver, striking the shooter. I don’t know about the original design, but to accomplish that with this gun, it would have to (1) fire out of battery and the (2) forged carrier arm, the (3) recoil lock screw shaft, and the (4) forged locking bolt link would all have to break…a practical impossibility. While the steel in these is softer than in modern-made guns and the barrels are thinner and lighter, if in good condition, properly maintained, and checked by a qualified gunsmith beforehand, I don’t hesitate to use them with a light diet of low-pressure loadings and lead (never steel) shot. They are certainly as safe as the fabled Model 12’s and Model 97’s of similar vintage few have second thoughts about shooting. Guns of any make I would hesitate shooting without further evaluation include those with dinged or worn locking lugs, badly pitted bores, short chambers, badly dented or bulged barrels, twist or Damascus barrels and those made before 1900 and proofed only for black powder.
Last is a reminder that these old pump guns are all “slam-fire” guns that lack the trigger disconnects present on modern guns. Hold the trigger back and the gun fires immediately as the bolt goes into battery. This makes them faster to shoot, but entirely unforgiving about lack of trigger discipline. Insure you and your students keep fingers out of trigger guards until ready to shoot. While the older Marlin hammerless pumps have their safety catches inside the trigger guard and are often called ”slam-fire guns with suicide safeties”, remember that because they cycle straight to the full-cock notch, all the hammer guns are “slam-fire guns with no safeties”.
Additional References: http://marauder.homestead.com/files/Marlin98s.htm
Last edited by Bob Smalser on Mon Nov 30, 2009 8:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bob
Categories
All About Guns

Some Basic Common Sense Rules for Gun Safety

 

These Poor Folks below are Really Dead from Gunfire.

So PLEASE pay attention! To what is being said below!

Image result for Gunshot victims

12 Golden Rules

Gun Safety Rules
You never fool around or play with guns. Guns are dangerous when they are not handled or used properly and can easily injure or kill you, and those around you. There are no second chances with a gun and the rules for safe gun handling must always be followed to avoid accidents.
The 12 Golden rules for Safe Gun Handling

  1. Always treat the gun as loaded.
  2. Always keep the gun pointed in a safe direction.
  3. Always keep your finger straight and off the trigger until you are ready to shoot.
  4. Always keep the gun unloaded until you are ready to use it.
  5. Never point the gun at anything you don’t intend to destroy.
  6. Be sure of your target and what is beyond it.
  7. Learn the mechanical and handling characteristics of the gun you are using.
  8. Always use proper Ammunition.
  9. Be sure the barrel is clear of obstructions before loading and shooting.
  10. If your gun fails to fire when the trigger is pulled, hold your shooting position for several seconds; then with the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, carefully unload the gun.
  11. Don’t rely on the gun’s safety to keep it from firing.
  12. Be aware of your surroundings when handling guns so you don’t trip or lose your balance and accidentally point and/or fire the gun at anyone or anything.

Range Safety

  1. Follow the 12 golden rules.
  2. Know and follow all the rules of the Shooting Range.
  3. Listen and do what the Range Master tells you to do.
  4. Uncase and case your gun at the shooting bench, never behind the safety line.
  5. Always keep the barrel pointed down range.
  6. Always keep the gun on safe until you intend to shoot.
  7. Always wear eye and ear protection when shooting.
  8. Never shoot at water or hard surfaces.

Hunting Safety

  1. Follow the 12 golden rules.
  2. When hunting in a group, always pick one person to act as a Safety Officer for the Day or Trip.
  3. Establish and share everyone’s zone of fire with each other and know where everyone is at all times.
  4. Always keep the gun on safe until you intend to shoot.
  5. Never climb over anything with a loaded gun in your hand or on your person.
  6. Never use a scope on a gun as Binoculars.
  7. If you fall or trip, control your muzzle. Afterward, check the gun for damage and/or obstructions in the barrel.
  8. When in Doubt; Don’t shoot.

Always remember that guns are not toys and should be treated with respect.

 
Categories
All About Guns

The Dark Side of Smith & Wesson

 
By Chuck Hawks

AUTHOR’S PREFACE

I’ve never had any particular desire to do an article about the dark side of Smith & Wesson, but it’s time someone in the outdoor media called a spade a spade, so to speak, rather than sugar-coat it as a “manual digging implement.” I’m sure that I will be accused of all sorts of bias after speaking out in this article, but the fact is that I have no personal motive, nor do I stand to profit in any way, from an S&W hit piece. Quite the contrary, as I will undoubtedly alienate some readers and a large potential advertiser.
Frankly, I don’t like to write negative reviews, which is why I have usually declined to review Smith & Wesson products. However, too many readers have written asking why I haven’t reviewed S&W firearms, or asking if I recommend various S&W models. Guns and Shooting Online readers expect, and deserve, the truth–or at least an honest opinion. So here goes . . ..


Of all the big American firearms manufacturers, Smith & Wesson is–in my opinion–the most deserving of censure. Certainly not because they make guns, nor are their products (always) unsafe when used as directed. However, Smith & Wesson’s corporate actions over the decades of their existence have often been questionable and their advertising misleading, at best. (You could say that they flat-out lie and get no argument from me.)
The recent S&W I-Bolt rifle is one example of S&W “shading” the truth in their promotions. The “I” in “I-Bolt” is supposed to stand for “innovation,” an assertion so boldly false as to be almost breath taking. The truth is that this rifle is almost completely deritive. It is a knock-off of the venerable Remington Model 700 action, with a few ideas stolen from other manufacturers tacked-on. Almost nothing about this rifle is actually innovative. Indeed, it is notable only for taking cost and quality reducing shortcuts to a new level in American rifle making.
This is a company whose professional conduct, as well as their product quality, has far too often failed to meet acceptable standards.
Example: I once inspected a shipment of Smith & Wesson .22 Masterpiece target revolvers sent to the sporting goods department of a large mass merchandiser. Those half dozen revolvers were so poorly made that the gap between cylinder face and forcing cone varied widely as the cylinder was turned. At one position or another the face of the cylinder would actually drag against the forcing cone. One or two of those revolvers were so far out of spec that the cylinder could not be rotated all the way around. One such gun I could understand somehow slipping by quality control, but a whole shipment so poorly made that even a cursory inspection would have revealed the problem? Obviously there was no quality control inspection before those new revolvers were shipped.
Example: On another occasion a friend and I inspected perhaps a dozen newly arrived S&W revolvers at a gun shop and found large gaps between the cylinder crane and frame in all of them. On the same guns the cylinder ratchet notches were so poorly machined that no two were identical; it looked like a drunken monkey had done the work. Again, a single defective revolver would be understandable–mistakes happen–but a whole shipment of lemons is impossible to explain as an isolated mistake.
Example: I purchased a brand new Chief’s Special .38 Special revolver. At the time of purchase the store clerk gave me a box of Smith & Wesson brand .38 Special factory loaded cartridges. (In those days S&W marketed ammunition under their brand name.) After firing no more than half of that first box of ammunition, I noticed that all 5 chambers of the cylinder had developed a slight bulge. Presumably it had not been properly heat-treated. Thank goodness I noticed the problem before the revolver blew-up in my hand.
Example: A Guns and Shooting Online staff member purchased a brand new S&W 22/32 Kit Gun whose rear sight could not be adjusted far enough laterally to put bullets into the target at 25 yards. Upon close examination with a straight edge we found that this revolver’s frame was actually machined in a slight curve. Clearly no one had test fired this revolver at the factory.
Example: Another Guns and Shooting Online staff member purchased a new S&W Model 41 target pistol. It has never shot particularly tight groups, even after having been rebarreled (at the owner’s expense!). In addition, it regularly malfunctions. He has put over twice the pistol’s (considerable) original cost into it trying, with marginal success, to correct its faults. You can believe that next time he will buy a Ruger, Browning, or High Standard target pistol.
Such examples are far too numerous and widespread. Design, quality and quality control problems have been endemic to Smith and Wesson firearms for decades.
Years ago, many customers complained that the .44 caliber “N” frame revolver was too heavy and bulky for the .357 Magnum cartridge. (That is the frame size on which Smith & Wesson originally built their .357 Mag. revolvers.) So, they started building .357 revolvers on their smaller “K” .38 Special frame. These revolvers quickly developed a reputation for vicious recoil and also for shaking themselves apart. Smith’s “solution” was to recommend practicing with .38 Special ammunition and reserving .357 Magnum cartridges only for “duty” purposes to extend the life of their revolvers! Ahem, doesn’t that sound like a tacit admission of a fundamental problem in a Magnum revolver?
Smith & Wesson finally addressed their .357 Magnum problem by introducing the “L” revolver frame. Smith L-frame revolvers are the same size as a Colt Python. L-frame revolvers will–surprise, surprise–fit perfectly in holsters formed for the Python. They even have the Colt full-length barrel under lug and a rib on top. This is because Smith simply copied the Colt Python’s frame size and styling clues, which is only one of many examples where S&W has simply stolen someone else’s good idea. Does the Sigma pistol come to mind? (Glock sued ’em over that one.) Or their cheesy High Standard .22 clones? Even their famous Chief’s Special revolver originated as a lower cost knock-off of the Colt Detective Special .38 snubby.
S&W built the Chief’s Special on their existing .32 caliber “J” frame. That frame was actually too small for the .38 Special cartridge, but rather than introduce a new, properly sized frame, S&W reduced the cylinder capacity to 5 cartridges. The resulting revolver was so weak that for decades the use of .38 Special High Speed (and later +P) cartridges was prohibited. Modern metallurgy and heat treating has supposedly cured the problem–if you trust Smith & Wesson’s advertising.
S&W has been ripping off other companies’ products, especially Colt’s, for over 150 years and the leopard hasn’t changed his spots. The current management is following in the footsteps of their predecessors, as evidenced by the recent introduction of their “new” 1911 auto pistol. Not only are they copying the famous Colt/Browning pistol, they aren’t even making their knock-off themselves; it is assembled largely from after market parts.
Smith & Wesson is not a tiny shop assembling these pistols individually. They are the largest handgun maker in the world! Have they no pride? (A rhetorical questions, since they obviously don’t.)
S&W is a huge print advertiser and that has made them a “holy cow,” insulated by the press from the consequences of their actions. Or, in the case of Smith & Wesson’s sell out to the virulently anti-gun Clinton Administration (creating what some called “Clinton & Wesson”), forgiven as soon as they (again!) changed their management team.
That unholy deal was a betrayal of the entire industry and every gun owning U.S. citizen. It was widely condemned by other gun manufacturers. A press release from the National Shooting Sports Foundation said that the agreement “violates trust for selfish ends.” It was neatly summed-up by Elizabeth Saunders, CEO of American Derringer, who said: “In all the years I have been in business, I have never seen anything so blatantly un-American as that agreement. No reasonable business person could possibly sign this thing.” Smith & Wesson deserved, and got, a grass-roots boycott of their products for selling out the other gun makers, their own dealers and all American gun owners.
I’ve lost count of how many times the S&W management team has changed during my lifetime, every time promising that things would improve. However, the basic company policy of ignoring the intellectual property rights of others and building cheaper knock-off’s of other people’s successful products has never varied. In addition, their quality control has remained in the tank for decades. Heck, the company was founded on the basis of someone else’s patent. (The reason that S&W cylinders have always rotated “backward” [out of the frame] is simply to create an obvious difference from the Colt revolver mechanism.)
S&W has gotten a pass from the big outdoor media since the 1950’s. The legendary unreliability of Smith & Wesson’s double-action auto pistols was widely known within the industry, but seldom mentioned in print by the outdoor press. (American Handgunner being the sole exception that comes to mind.) A good example of the “bye” that S&W has always gotten from the outdoor media is the fact that most shooters don’t even know about the short cuts, rip-offs and problems cited in this article.
As I write these words, S&W is busy producing their knock-offs of Glock, High Standard and Colt/Browning designs, plus Walther PPK type pistols by agreement with the German parent company. The latter, by the way, have all recently been recalled as defective and unsafe. This recall applies to all Walther PPK and PPK/S pistols manufactured by Smith & Wesson from March 21, 2002, until February 3, 2009. That’s seven years of production! Think that maybe it took S&W’s quality control a smigeon too long to find, or at least admit, that there was a problem?
Enough is enough; Smith & Wesson’s history of quality control problems and as a corporate copycat is too long, and too nauseating, to delve into further. Anyway, you’ve got the picture.