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Damascus steel or W.T.F.I.T. ?






This is one of the earliest and most beautiful steels made by man. Here is it’s story below:
NSFW
| August 27, 2015
A stroll in the woods is nearly always an enjoyable endeavor; what’s not so enjoyable is discovering a red, itchy rash the next day. Each year, millions of Americans come in contact with poison ivy, poison oak, or poison sumac. While there are numerous other poisonous plants, these three are grouped together because they share a common irritant: an oily resin/sap called urushiol. This resin is potent — it only takes 1 nanogram to cause a reaction. And unfortunately, it coats all parts of these plants.
While some of the characteristics we describe below aren’t necessarily unique to these plants, we’ll get you enough information to avoid these poisonous foes and confidently walk your favorite trails (or create your own!).
Identifying Poison Ivy
The old saying is true: “Leaves of three, let them be!” While there are other plants which have leaf clusters in threes, both poison ivy and poison oak share this trait, making it best to avoid plants with this feature altogether. What you’ll most likely encounter with poison ivy is a stem with a larger leaf at the end, and two smaller leaves shooting off the sides. The leaves can be notched or smooth on the edges, and they have pointed tips. The plant is reddish in the spring, green in summer, and yellow/orange in the fall. It’s not uncommon to see clusters of greenish-white berries on poison ivy through the spring and summer, as well as green/yellow flowers.




Poison ivy can take the form of a vine or a shrub. The plant’s appearance varies widely based on the region and specific environment where it grows, which is everywhere in the US with the exceptions of Hawaii, Alaska, and parts of the southwest deserts.
Identifying Poison Oak
Like poison ivy, this plant most often grows leaves in clusters of three, although some varieties display five or seven per cluster. The defining feature is that the leaves have a lobed, wavy appearance (also described as scalloped), similar to oak tree leaves, but more subdued. Another characteristic that sets it apart from poison ivy is that the tips of the leaves are rounded rather than pointed. Its leaves are bright green in spring, turn yellow-green or pink in summer, and finally turn yellow into dark brown in the fall.



Poison oak is generally a shrub, averaging about 3 feet tall, but shoots of it can also grow as a vine. Not commonly found in the middle part of the U.S., poison oak is primarily situated on the West coast, and the East coast/Southeast.
Identifying Poison Sumac
Poison sumac stems (which are generally red — another of the defining features) have 7-13 leaves, in pairs, with a lone leaf at the end. Leaves are oval, elongated, and smooth-edged, usually 2-4 inches long. They are bright orange in spring, dark green in summer, and red-orange in fall.




Poison sumac thrives in watery, swampy environs, present mostly in the Midwest and Southeastern U.S., where high humidity is common. It grows as a tree or tall shrub, 5-20 feet tall.
Allergic Reactions to Poison Ivy, Oak, or Sumac
An allergic reaction to poison ivy, oak, or sumac can occur when your skin makes direct contact with the plant, when you touch something that has been in contact with the plant, and even when the plant is burned, as particles of urushiol can make their way into your eyes, nose, and throat. Urushiol is very sticky and tenacious, so it easily adheres to firewood, dog fur, and gardening tools, and then transfers itself to your skin once you lift, pet, and pick up these things. Because urushiol is present in the plants’ roots, stems, and leaves, it remains potentially poisonous even in the wintertime.
Anyone can get an allergic reaction if exposed to urushiol in a large enough dose. But some folks are more sensitive than others. About 85% of the population is fairly to extremely susceptible to getting an allergic reaction, while 15% of lucky folks are resistant to reaction. One’s sensitivity/resistance is thought to be largely genetic in origin, so if your parents have had severe reactions to poisonous plants, take extra care to avoid contact yourself.
Sometimes you only get a rash after being exposed to the plant numerous times. So don’t automatically assume that you’re resistant because you touched poison ivy/oak/sumac once, and didn’t get a rash.
On the other hand, sensitivity to these poisonous plants can lessen over time. So if you had a bad reaction as a child, you may have developed more resistance over the years.
How to Treat a Rash From Poison Ivy, Oak, or Sumac
If you know you’ve touched one of these poisonous plants, you have about 10 minutes before the sap penetrates the lower layers of your skin and binds to its cells, at which point an allergic reaction will set in. So you can head off this reaction by immediately rinsing the exposed area with running water. Use a mild detergent soap if you have it; fatty soaps can spread the urushiol oil, creating a worse reaction. Rinsing with rubbing alcohol is also effective. If wipes are all you have to clean the area, that’s better than nothing.
If you don’t wash off the resin in time, and you’re sensitive to ivy/oak/sumac, then a rash will develop. Rashes from all three of these plants appear in the same form and are treated in the same way since the irritating agent in all of them is urushiol. If you’ve been outdoors and have the following symptoms appear, you may have a rash from one of these plants:
- patches of swollen redness
- outbreak of blisters
- intense itching
These are the primary symptoms, and they generally appear within 12-72 hours of contact. Luckily, if the rash isn’t severe, it can be treated at home without having to see a dermatologist.
The American Academy of Dermatology recommends the following treatment plan:
- Immediately rinse your skin with lukewarm, soapy water. Urushiol is an oil, so if not washed off, it can continue to spread. (Note: there are special washes out there that claim to remove urushiol more effectively and to lesson the severity of a rash once a reaction has set in; Zanfel is a popular one, but Mean Green Scrub uses the same ingredients/composition but costs way less per ounce.)
- Wash your clothing and anything else the oil may have touched, including tools, pets, car seats, etc.
- Do not scratch; doing so can open the skin and possibly cause an infection.
- Leave blisters alone; do not peel overlying skin, as it protects the wound underneath from infection.
- Apply calamine lotion or hydrocortisone cream/lotion.
- Apply a cool washcloth to skin to ease burning and itching.
The rash should heal in about 1-2 weeks. Though it may look gross, it’s not contagious. If the rash is particularly large or painful, or doesn’t heal in that timeframe, it’s best to see a dermatologist who may prescribe a round of oral steroids or other treatments.
Above all, wearing long clothing when you go out is recommended — especially pants to guard against brushing these plants while wandering around. Be sure to wash these clothes right when you get home.
You’re now equipped to head out to the woods and avoid these itchy fiends!
No Shit

May the Force be with you! NSFW










First aide videos
Hopefully you will not need this, so Good Luck! Grumpy
Preview YouTube video What’s inside my Car First Aid Kit
Preview YouTube video Organizing the Kitchen – Making a First Aid Kit
Preview YouTube video Basic First Aid Kit – Pelican 1460 EMS Case
Preview YouTube video What you should have in a First Aid Kit for the home
Say this poor thing has had a rough life?





| The Baby Hammerless Revolver by Ed Buffaloe |
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| The early history of the Baby Hammerless revolver is a bit murky, but the variants of the gun are well documented. My original intent was simply to document the Kolb specimen I collected, but there is so little information about the Baby Hammerless on the internet that I thought I should at least record the various manufacturers and types, and provide what history I can find. Foehl & Weeks Charles G.W. Foehl engaged in the business of making firearms in Philadelphia for a number of years. He was born in the state of Würtemberg, Germany in September of 1840, and immigrated to the United States in 1859. Foehl was apprenticed to Philadelphia gunsmith John Wurfflein, and is said to have worked for Henry Deringer, Jr. before the U.S. Civil War. After the war Foehl worked for the Deringer Rifle and Pistol Works, which was owned by a great-grandson of Henry Deringer, Jr. The firm made cartridge firearms, and its First Model Deringer Revolver utilized some features from Foehl’s first firearms patent, U.S. patent #139,461. The firm also manufactured single shot rifles based on Foehl’s next two patents, which were variants of the Martini action rifle. Foehl died on 4 October 1913, at the age of 73. In 1889 Foehl formed a company with a Philadelphia machinist, Charles A Weeks, to make guns based on Foehl’s patents. They called their company the Foehl & Weeks Firearms Manufacturing Company. In the next few years, they took out several patents together for various features of the revolvers they produced, including U.S. patents #447,219, #468,243, and #471,112. Their revolvers were mostly top-break, in .32 and .38 caliber, some with a grip safety on the front of the grip, some with a safety behind the trigger guard. They were usually marked “THE FOEHL & WEEKS F. A. MFG. CO.” Some were marked “PERFECT” on the topstrap. Foehl & Weeks may have never actually manufactured the Baby Hammerless under their own name, since the company went bankrupt in the financial panic of 1893, and while they continued to be listed in city directories until 1896, there are no Baby Hammerless other than prototypes that can be definitively traced to this period. The two patent dates on the Baby Hammerless are February 2, 1892 and February 4, 1896. The 1892 patent applied to the Baby Hammerless Revolver was Foehl & Weeks’ patent #468,243, and the 1896 patent was Foehl’s patent #554,058. Frank Sellers, in his book Baby Hammerless Pistols, estimates that the entire production of all types of Foehl & Weeks revolvers was no more than a few thousand. The Columbian Firearms Manufacturing Company Columbian was probably formed in 1893, soon after the financial difficulties of Foehl & Weeks became apparent, and almost certainly named in honor of the World’s Columbian Exhibition, held in Chicago in 1893. The president of Columbian Firearms was Henry Ruhland, a Philadelphia financier who just happened to be the bankruptcy referee for Foehl & Weeks (the equivalent of a modern bankruptcy judge). Foehl managed the company, which occupied the same factory that had been previously used by Foehl & Weeks. Essentially, Ruhland and Foehl created a new legal entity which could continue producing firearms using Foehl’s patents, without being liable for Foehl & Weeks’ debts. Later, a half interest in two of Foehl’s patents (#530,759 of 1894 and #554,058 of 1896, the latter of which was on the Baby Hammerless) was assigned to Henry Ruhland. The firm manufactured top-break revolvers nearly identical to those manufactured by Foehl & Weeks. Some were marked “COLUMBIAN F. A. MFG. CO. PHILA. PA. U.S.A./ PAT. DEC. 11.1894 PAT.PDG.” Others were marked “COLUMBIAN AUTOMATIC PAT.PDG./ NEW YORK ARMS CO.” The Baby Hammerless was probably first manufactured by Columbian, though some knowledgeable collectors maintain that all Baby Hammerless models were manufactured after Henry Kolb took over. However, there remains the fact that the early Baby Hammerless had hard rubber grips with vines or scrollwork in the upper circle, whereas Kolb’s revolvers all had a K in the circle. I can’t help but think that if Kolb had made them all, they would all display Kolb’s K. Columbian apparently went out of business in 1897 or 1898, and their guns are rather scarce. Henry M. Kolb Henry M. Kolb was born 16 January 1861 in the Würtemburg state of southern Germany, and was first listed in the Philadelphia city directory in 1895 as a machinist. He claimed in his ads that he founded his firearms company in 1897, which was also the last year the Columbian Firearms Company was listed in the city directory. It is known that Kolb opened a model shop in 1899 and a machinery business in 1900. There is no evidence he ever occupied the address of the old Foehl & Weeks/Columbian com- panies, nor is there any record that he purchased their machinery, though it is possible that he may have done so. Here lies the root of the question as to who made the Baby Hammerless. Other than the hard rubber grips, there are no differences between the Columbian and Kolb Baby Hammerless revolvers–they were probably made with the same equipment. Charles Foehl was also associated with Henry Kolb–they took out several patents together after Kolb entered the firearms business, though none of them were related to the Baby Hammerless. Kolb himself took out two patents in 1910 that relate directly to the Baby Hammerless revolver. The first was #954,190, for a “firing-pin for hammers for firearms,” and the second was #954,191, for a means of mounting and locking the cylinder. Kolb’s business, which apparetly was simply called Henry M. Kolb, became Henry M. Kolb & Company in 1910, and this change may mark the occasion of Reginald F. Sedgley becoming manager of the firm, though this is an inference with no hard data to back it up. R. F. Sedgley, Incorporated Reginald Sedgley was born in England on 3 September 1876 and arrived in the U.S. on 9 May 1894. He is believed to have worked in Philadelphia as a machinist as early as 1896. There is no documentation to show exactly when he worked for Kolb, but it is probable that he began working for him before 1910, several years before Charles Foehl’s death. Sedgley bought out Kolb’s business in 1916, and Kolb returned to the machine shop business by 1917. Sedgley marked his catalogues “R.F. Sedgley, Inc., Established 1897.” Having bought the company, he adopted Kolb’s founding date. While it is possible that Sedgley worked for Kolb as early as 1897, Sellers does not consider it likely. Sedgley was granted two patents for improvements to the Baby Hammerless. The first, #1,216,001, was granted on 13 February 1917 for a new combination mainspring. The second, #1,236,608, was granted 14 August 1917 for a cylinder ejection system. He was also well known for custom gunsmith work, converting 1903 Springfields into sporting guns and sniper rifles, and for his flare gun. Sedgley died on 30 March 1938. Variants of the Baby Hammerless Revolver I despair of making a complete list of Baby Hammerless variations, because the sheer number of them is overwhelming and sometimes confusing. For the most complete coverage available please see Frank Sellers’ book, Baby Hammerless Revolvers. I will cover the high points here. Serial numbers for the Baby Hammerless revolvers are usually found stamped into the frame under the right grip plate.
The gun shown here had both grips broken. I was able to repair them with black epoxy putty, which you can easily see on the rear portion of the left side grip. The gun must have been reasonably well made, as it still functions despite its age. This one is marked with serial number 475. However, Sellers states that duplicate serial numbers are often encountered. It seems that numbers regularly ran from 1 to 999, and then started again at 1.
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| References Baby Hammerless Revolvers, by Frank M. Sellers. Privately Printed: 2004. Pistols of the World, by Ian V. Hogg & John Walter. Krause Publications, Iola, WI: 2004. “R.F. Sedgley, Inc.,” by Pete Dickey. American Rifleman, June 1984. Special thanks to Homer R. Ficken for researching information about Charles Foehl. |
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| Copyright 2008-2011 by Ed Buffaloe. All rights reserved. Click on the pictures to open a larger version in a new window. |
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