Category: Gun Info for Rookies
When picking out a vintage shotgun there are so many different things to consider. After all, there’s always some risk/concern when you buy anything used – and shotguns are no exception. These tips will help ensure you get the right gun.
Related Article: History of Colt’s Snake Guns
Fitting the Gun: Length of Pull, Cast, Drop at Comb, Face & Heel
First and foremost, the gun has to fit you. If it doesn’t move and point naturally with you, then you’re not going to hit anything. Because you’re buying an older gun that was made for (or altered by) one or many previous owners, you’ve got to be sure the gun fits you properly.
A vintage shotgun’s cast to the left or right is used to ensure proper placement of the shooter’s eye over the center of the rib. If the cast isn’t right, you’ll notice it right away because your eye won’t line up correctly.
The length of pull on vintage shotguns is often – but not always – shorter than what you’d find on a new, modern shotgun. Bringing the gun to your shoulder will immediately tell you if it’s too long or short. Simply put, it just won’t feel right.
The gunstock’s drop is equally important and can cause you to shoot too high or too low if it’s not properly aligned. Try out several guns and take measurements at each of the drop points from the barrel alignment so that you can compare guns and know what measurements are right for you.
Chamber Length
Vintage shotguns will often have shorter chamber lengths. This is due to the fact that shot shells of yesteryear that were made from paper or metal and used fiber wads that were of different dimensions than the plastic hull and shot cups we have today. While you might be able to fit the same shells you usually use into a vintage gun, there’s a chance it’ll end up stuck in the chamber once fired. You may also experience an increase in recoil due to the extra pressure build-up. It’s possible to have the chambers lengthened, but it’s easier (and cheaper) to buy shorter shells.
Barrel Length
For one reason or another, a previous owner may have cut down the barrels on a shotgun. There are a few easy ways to tell if this has been done. First, measure them. Uncut barrels will always be in whole-number increments. If you come up with a fraction, then they’ve been cut. Also, look for abrupt changes in engraving patterns or truncated words. Cut barrels will often interfere with the flow of rib engraving or any markings that were originally on the end of the barrels.
Barrel Thickness
Like all things that see repetitive use over the decades, shotgun barrels do wear out. This could have been expedited by the use of older powder that didn’t burn as clean as modern powder, use of corrosive primers, or lack of proper maintenance for years on end. This can cause pitting that, if deep enough, can make the barrels too thin to be used safely. Make sure you give the barrels a good look and ensure that they’re free of any fouling that may be concealing pits or other kinds of damage.
Hinge Pin
Be sure to check the fit between the action and the barrels. A shotgun’s hinge pin can wear out over time, making the fit sloppy and loose. A loose fit between these surfaces can cause gas to blow back into your face. Make sure you take the barrels out of the action and examine the mating surfaces. Be wary of any misshapen spots that could have been created by trying to bend the parts and create a false sense of proper fit.
Locking Mechanism and Lever
Take a look at the lever that’s used to disengage the locking mechanism. A proper lever should be centered or just to the right of the action. If the lever rests to the left, it could be a sign of excessive wear.
BONUS: The Finish
Sometimes it’s very obvious that a shotgun has been re-blued. This could be because the markings are no longer as sharp, the color doesn’t look quite right compared to guns you know are original, or the color isn’t consistent for the full length of the barrels or action.
Re-bluing in and of itself isn’t an issue when done properly. Older shotgun ribs were often attached with soft solder. If the person who re-blues the barrels uses the hot caustic method instead of rust or cold bluing, the original rib solder can be weakened, and the rib may eventually separate from the barrels. Test the barrels by hitting them with a soft mallet or your shoe. They should ring clearly; if you hear a rattle instead, then you know something is up with the fit between the rib and barrels.
Wrap-Up
Without a doubt, this list is not exhaustive; but it’s an excellent place to start. In addition to the things on this list, I’d recommend that you look at a lot of shotguns, bring a friend or family member who has bought a used shotgun before, and have a qualified gunsmith look it over if you have any doubts. If you do all of these things, you’ll be well on your way to breathing new life into an old shotgun.
Categories
Bolt Actions: 101
The indoor range where I first learned to operate defensive handguns was attached to a law-enforcement supply house. I feel lucky that’s where I got my start because of the staff members who worked there at the time. They were kind enough to take me under their wings and teach me how to make the most of the limited financial resources I had at the time.
When I announced that I was ready to buy my first handgun, they walked me around from the new gun section of their extensive and well-stocked handgun case to the side where the used guns were on display. They explained that for folks on a tight budget, previously owned handguns in good working condition could be found for a fraction of the price of similar models in factory-fresh condition.
But being able to sort the real bargains from the boat anchors is a skill that takes some practice to develop. Because I was a newbie with more enthusiasm than experience, they suggested I stick close to the law enforcement (LE) surplus and trade-in guns for my first purchase, especially if I was going to use it for self defense.
LE guns tend to be durable, reliable models purchased new from reputable manufacturers. They are then issued to officers who count on them to protect their lives and the lives of others. This means the guns are well used, but rarely abused. They tend to be carried a lot but shot little. Even though the exterior of a surplus gun exhibits dings, scratches and holster wear, the action and barrel are still in great condition.
Recently, I found retired SIG Sauer P226 pistols for sale on the AIM Surplus website for $379.95. Brand new, the P226 can cost upwards of $900. Chambered in .40 S&W, these particular models have smooth dust covers (no accessory rail) and ship with night sights, factory polymer grips and one 12-round magazine. Additional surplus magazines were available for $14.95 instead of the new magazine price of $40. At these prices, I had to give the P226 a try. Here’s a walkthrough of the audition process the P226 went through and how it fared.
I knew, up front, that I was looking at a top-quality pistol from a reputable company. The SIG P226 is closing in on four decades of military and law enforcement service around the world. Its durability, reliability and accuracy have been proven in the field time and again. Holsters, magazines and accessories are all readily available for this model. Whether or not buying a SIG Sauer for under $400 was worth the investment would boil down to the condition the gun was in when it arrived.
The key to purchasing a surplus gun is being prepared to receive a less-than-perfect product. I have yet to buy a used gun that didn’t need attention or modifications of one kind or another. That’s the trade-off for the deep-dish discounts. That said, guns that are a different grade than advertised, or that don’t work properly, should not be altered before consulting with the seller. Fiddling with the gun may violate the seller’s policies and leave you stuck with a lemon. Make sure to understand what your return options are before making the purchase.
I was quite pleased with the P226 that AIM Surplus sent out, but let’s go ahead and nitpick just a bit. The pistol arrived without a storage case, lock or an owner’s manual. These days, owner’s manuals are just a few taps of a touch screen away. But if you don’t have a case and lock on hand, they’ll run you about $20.
The pistol does have a set of metallic night sights as advertised. But sight sets powered by tritium lamps have a limited working life of 6 to 10 years, after which they slowly fade to black. These particular sights offer a dim memory of the bright green glow they once provided. The P226 shipped with the factory-installed polymer grip panels, but they were rubbed smooth by daily carry. To provide additional purchase, the previous owner applied a piece of rough skateboard tape to the front strap of the grip. That too was well worn and falling apart. And, as expected, where was cosmetic wear and tear to the slide and frame.
How much did these short comings really matter? Not a bit! These are all negligible issues that had little bearing on the performance or reliability of the pistol. The black-nitride finish of the stainless-steel slide was in top condition. The aluminum frame had little in the way of physical blemishes. Some of the anodized finish was rubbed away around the trigger guard and beaver tail grip extension with more rubbed away around the opening of the magazine well. But this surface damage is purely cosmetic in nature.
The features and functions that really count for defensive pistols were in place and working properly. There were no mechanical issues, broken components or worn-out springs. This P226 sailed through a series of bench checks with green lights across the board. The slide cycled cleanly, the trigger pull was smooth, the controls worked properly and the magazines locked and dropped just like they were supposed to.
The pistol was dismantled for a detailed cleaning and inspection. Two steps that folks sometimes forget when cleaning a used gun for the first time are to remove the grip panels and to break down the magazines. The interior of the gun looked almost factory fresh but there was build-up under the grip panels and one of the surplus magazines contained a surprising amount of lint.
At the end of the inspection and cleaning process, I was left with two optional fixes: the dim night sights and the worn grip panels. The night sights have white outlines around the now dim Tritium lamps, so they look just like typical non-illuminated three-dot combat sights. They can be replaced for between $100 to $150, but I’ve opted to save that money and use them as-is for now.
However, one thing I’ve learned is that an uncomfortable grip fit can be a deal breaker no matter how good the gun may be. I knew before pulling the P226’s trigger that the worn smooth plastic grip panels and frayed skateboard tape would be miserable to hold on to with the more vigorous levels of felt recoil .40 S&W ammunition produces. In this case, there were two easy and inexpensive fixes to improve the grip.
First, the skateboard tape was carefully lifted off the front of the grip frame using isopropyl alcohol to neutralize the adhesive. The straight line texturing cut into the front strap of the frame, which had been covered by the tape, was still intact. The plastic grip panels were replaced with a set of Hogue Inc. P226 Rubber Panels (No. 26010). This grip set covers both sides of the grip frame and fills in the back strap with a soft, pebble-textured rubber that hugs the shooting hand like a glove. It made a night-and day-difference in the handling and comfort level of shooting this gun for less than $30. It was definitely a worthwhile investment.
The final portion of the audition was a trip to the shooting range. Defensive handguns, new or used, should be given at least a 100- to 200-round work out before being cleaned again and staged for use. A minimum of 2-3 magazines worth of the ammunition test fired should be the same defense grade cartridge the gun will be loaded with for personal protection.
In this case, the P226 demonstrated acceptable defensive accuracy levels with groups between 3″ to 3.5″ at 25-yards. It proved to be utterly reliable with all of the ammunition it was fed, including practice-grade and premium hollow points. The following table shows the formal accuracy and velocity results using ammunition provided by Federal Premium Ammunition, Hornady and Winchester:
The advice to keep an eye out for LE surplus guns has served me well over the years. Not only has it reduced the cost of guns I simply liked, it’s also turned up reliable firearms for personal protection when belt tightening measures were in place.
Great deals like the SIG Sauer P226 from AIM Surplus are part of the surplus market’s ever-shifting inventory. Do your research, decide what you want and work out a budget ahead of time. Then be patient. That way, when a deal like this one crops up, you’ll be ready to grab it before it slips away.
Specifications:
Distributor: AIM Surplus
Manufacturer: SIG Sauer
Model: LEO Surplus P226 (AIM Surplus Item #: F1SIG22640)
Action: DA/SA Semi-Auto
Caliber: .40 S&W
Slide: Black Nitride Finished Stainless Steel, Rear Cocking Serration
Frame: Hard Anodized Aluminum, Black
Accessory Rail: No
Grips: Removable Textured Black Polymer
Sights: 3-Dot Combat Night Sights
Double-Action Trigger Pull: 9 lbs. 3 oz.
Single-Action Trigger Pull: 4 lbs. 13 oz.
Barrel Length: 4.4″
Overall Length: 7.7″
Height: 5.5″
Slide Width: 1.05″
Grip Width: 1.45″ with Hogue Upgrade
Weight: 33.6-oz. with Empty Magazine
Capacity: 12+1 Rounds
Twist: 1:16 RH
Rifle Grooves: 6
Accessories: One Surplus Magazine
Suggested Surplus Price: $379.95 – Condition May Vary
Grip Panel Upgrade: Hogue Inc. P226 Rubber Panels (26010) $29.95