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Gear & Stuff

On making your Guns Safer

I found this article on the net & since it’s better written than I could write. I thought I would share it with you!
Enjoy                                                                                           Grumpy
Image result for grumpy old guy
G&A Basics: How to Store Your Gun

by B. Gil Horman   |  October 16th, 201211 Comments

Modern firearms are powerful tools that experienced shooters understand need to be treated with respect. While a gun is in use, we carefully follow a set of common sense rules to keep everyone safe. But how do we practice firearms safety when the shooting or hunting sessions are over? Most of the guns folks own will spend the majority of their working life at rest, placed in one state of storage or another, until the next shooting event. Since they remain powerful tools between trips to the range, it’s very important to store them properly.

A wide variety of safe gun storage accessories and containers are currently available. However, there is no universal solution to fill every role, or to fit every budget. Safe storage options are intended to perform one or more of the following tasks, which they do with varying degrees of effectiveness depending on how much money you’re willing to spend:
1. Prevent a gun from firing
2. Protect a gun from physical damage
3. Act as a theft deterrent
It’s much easier to consider the pros and cons of each storage system when they can be compared side by side. The following discussion is a walkthrough of the most common safe gun storage options, starting with the least expensive:
Trigger Locks ($0-$15):
Trigger locks fulfill a single safe gun storage objective: Prevent the gun from firing. Most new guns now arrive from the manufacturer with a trigger lock of some kind or other in the box. Trigger shoes clamp and lock around the trigger housing to prevent the trigger from being pressed. They should not be engaged on a loaded gun because they come in contact with the trigger as they are installed and removed. Cable locks allow the shooter to run cable through the barrel or action of a firearm. Since the cable blocks the action from being closed, the gun cannot be loaded or fired with the cable lock in place.
If these two lock options are not available, a simple household padlock can be looped over the trigger guard with the hasp set behind the trigger. This will prevent the trigger from completing a firing cycle. Although trigger locks are inexpensive (or even free), and can successfully prevent a gun from firing, they do nothing to protect the gun’s finish or to deter theft.
Soft-Side and Hard-Side Gun Cases ($10- $150):
Most sporting goods stores have entire aisles dedicated to affordable handgun, rifle, and shotgun cases. The options available range from padded fabric sleeves to rugged foam-lined plastic cases. The primary role of this kind of affordable carry case is to protect guns from physical damage. While they do a good job of preventing dings and scratches, their role as a security device is relatively limited.
Most soft and hard side cases can be “legally” locked for transport to and from the shooting range (check your local regulations). This could be a luggage lock through a soft case’s zipper pull, or a padlock through the handles of a hard case. This security system may be enough to keep small children out as well. However, the materials these cases are made of are easily defeated by ordinary edged implements. These low-cost cases also have a low theft deterrence value since they are light and easy to move. They have to be hidden or locked inside of another container to protect them from theft.
Strong Boxes and Metallic Gun Cases ($25 – $350):
In an effort to strike a balance between the security offered by a locking gun cabinet and the portability of a gun case, several companies offer portable strong boxes and metallic gun cases. Metal gun cases usually incorporate a reliable locking system or the means to attach heavy padlocks. Strong boxes, usually intended for handguns, offer mounting systems for permanent attachment to a fixed surface. Some boxes are fitted with quick-opening locking mechanisms, including electronic push-button access and fingerprint scanners.
Strong boxes and metallic gun cases are the first products discussed so far that start to fill all three mandates of a safe gun storage device. They can effectively protect against unauthorized access because of the difficulty in opening these units without a key or lock combination. These containers will effectively protect a gun’s finish from damage. And, if they can be attached or locked to a fixed object or surface, they offer some level of theft deterrence. But with features to fill all three mandates, the price starts to go up. It may be necessary to purchase batteries or extra mounting hardware to take advantage of all the storage device’s available features.
Locking Steel Gun Cabinets ($150 – $450):
Remember that grand wooden gun display case that your great-uncle had in his den? Looking through the engraved glass panes of the double doors, you could see his beautiful vintage shotgun collection. Sometimes he would retrieve that little brass key to open the doors so you could get a better look. While this kind of locking gun cabinet looks wonderful, it does not offer any truly viable level of safe gun storage, accept against small children. To secure firearms, a locking steel gun cabinet is a more secure choice.
Cabinets differ from gun safes in several respects. They follow a less-is-more design. The thinner gauge of steel, a simple locking mechanism, and the lack of fire-proofing insulation greatly reduces the cost. Because they are light enough to be safely carried by one or two people, they can be set up in apartment buildings or second-floor rooms where a gun safe would simply be too heavy or difficult to install.
Cabinets are a big step up from metallic gun cases or strong boxes when it comes to storing multiple firearms. They offer a much larger storage capacity and more configuration options. Cabinets can be securely bolted to a wall or to the floor. However, they do not offer the same level of theft deterrence as a gun safe. If you have the cash for a high-end cabinet, and the room to store it, you may want to spend a little more and purchase an economy-line gun safe.
Gun Safes ($500 – $2,500+):
Simply stated, gun safes are the most secure gun storage option available to the average gun owner. Even the basic units have terrific advantages over any of the other gun storage units described so far. A locked safe will definitely prevent a gun from being handled or loaded. The upholstered interior and built-in gun racks will help to protect the finish of the firearms while allowing air to circulate. And, best of all, they are an effective theft deterrent.
Much like automobiles or personal computers, gun safes are available with a wide variety of features, locking systems, and finishes, all of which affect the bottom line cost of the unit. These cost-changing features include the gauge (or thickness) of the steel used to construct the safe, the strength and reliability of the locking mechanism, the level of fire resistance (if any), the extent of the warranty, shelf and rack configuration options, as well as the color and quality options for the exterior finish.
Because all gun safes are relatively expensive (compared to other gun storage options) it makes sense to consider what you want very carefully before you buy. First-time safe buyers should be careful to avoid two common, but serious, mistakes. The first thing to avoid is buying a safe that’s too small. A unit that’s a perfect fit for your collection today may not serve your needs in ten years. A bit more expense up front may save you the trouble of changing out or adding a second safe down the road.
The second mistake is waiting too long to buy one. Yes, gun safes are big, heavy, difficult to install, and expensive to pay for. But they are well worth the trouble if you have a gun collection you care about. How do you know it’s time to invest in a gun safe? If the guns you have are worth more (sentimentally as well as financially) than the cost of the least expensive safe you would be willing to purchase, then it’s time to start shopping for one.

Read more: http://www.gunsandammo.com/home-featured/ga-basics-how-to-store-your-gun/#ixzz4sS9A84RB

Categories
Gear & Stuff

How to clean a Hand Gun safely & well

Now I hope that you just back from shooting your trusty side arm. I also hope that you had fun and hit the Bulls Eye a lot!
Image result for Trusty Side Army
 
Image result for hitting the pistol target Bullseye
 
Now come the less glamorous job of cleaning the weapon. But since you have spent a pile of jack on it. That and you want it to be able to work well in the future.
So you just get it done.  Now like all jobs. It is going to take some time, goodies and skill. But if you persist thru this. I think that I can help you out.
Here are some helpful hints.
***ALWAYS MAKE SURE THAT THE GUN IS UNLOADED!**
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As a lot of folks have been shot by an”Unloaded” gun. So trust me on this one.
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As both the Cops and later on the Judge. As both of them are not going to be very understanding about things like this.
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Next is this gentle hint. Do not have anybody just horsing around you during this time. Again as both the Cops & the Judge are NOT going to be amused.
Image result for pissed off judge & cops
 
Image result for pissed off judge & cops
Now here is some stuff that I use on my guns. Hopefully they will do just a good a job as they do for me.
First off you need a place that has good ventilation. Since most of this stuff is mildly toxic and fatal if you drink it. (Please Don’t Okay?)

This is my Idea of a real Man’s Garage by the way. (My day will come when I have one as good as this one)

Image result for a real mans garage
Next you are going to need some rags. I found that old beach towels or old diapers work best. Since they have leave little lint after their use.
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**WARNING** Do not even think of using your Brides wedding gear. Tempting as it may be at times!
Next you need some cleaning oil and solutions. Now I have been using Breakfree since I was a Rookie in Army Basic. It has never let me down so far. But it is up to you.
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Also some Gun Foam is a real time saver. Especially since it will get into the tiniest crevice of the gun. It is alo very useful to get rid of cosmoline and stubborn grease.
***Just do not get it on Wood Stocks or Grips. As it will take the varnish and stain away very quickly. Also not getting it in your eyes is a very good idea!**
I also found that getting a cheap apron is a good idea. Especially since I am a sloppy child as Mom has repeatedly told me.
Your Dry cleaner will also be happy with you too.
You can buy one usually for under Ten Bucks if you look around. Said the Cheapest Teacher in America.
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This “Q” Tip looking thing. I have found to be really useful also. Just do not put them in your ear. Okay? Amazon has them by the way.

RamRodz 0.22/0.223/5.56 Caliber Gun…
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They come in a variety of caliber sizes also.

Next item to get is some cleaning patches. The Good ones come in various sizes.
I myself usually buy a 22 , 243 size,308 caliber and some shotgun sized ones.  For they will last me for the better part of a year or two. Most gun shops and Sporting good stores have them
Or you can cut up some of your rags to get it done.
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Last but not least. Buy yourself a good brass cleaning  rod for pistols. If you can the US Army use to issue them for their side arms. They are very tough and durable. Mine is over 60 years old.
This is comparable to it.
 
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Also invest in a couple of patch holders. That & some good copper bore brushes and a toothbrush.  Now this seems a lot.
But I figured out the whole rig cost me un $50 & about a day or two to rustle them up. That & they really help me do a good job and save me also a lot of time to boot.
Which is all things considered. A very cheap & effective insurance policy that does pay off in the long run.
Here below also are some pretty good videos that can also help you in getting this detail done right.

Categories
Gear & Stuff

The Sherman Tank

Now I was assigned to a Armor Cavalry Regiment. When I was in the National Guard. So maybe I know a thing or two about Tanks.
As to the Sherman Tank. My hat is really off to those guys that rode in them during WWII & Korea. They really had a pair of solid brass Testicles.
Here are a few things that I learned about Armored Fighting Vehicles. They are hot, smelly, greasy, loud and blind.
Now by saying blind. When you are buttoned up inside of one. Really only the Driver and the Track Commander (The TC) can see out either by sticking their head out of the hatch*. Or by using his periscope. Yes tanks have periscopes.
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*By the way a good Sniper will just loves this. He & his spotter will be looking mighty hard for you for this point.
Another thing that is mighty important to Tankers is that of TEAMWORK! As the crew thinks like a team or else.
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Image result for sherman tank
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How a tank is killed in Modern Combat.
Now everyone thinks that a Tank is invulnerable.
Image result for shot up sherman tank
Trust me it isn’t !
So here are some of the things that Track Folks just hate with a passion.
The Bad Guys Tank
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Anti Tank Guns
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Close Air Support
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Hand held Anti Tank Weapons like the Russian RPG
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Crazy Folks with Molotov Cocktails

Image result for molotov cocktail
Or just throwing a Track in combat.
Image result for throwing a tank track in combat             Does this look like fun or what!?! Especially when some pissed off at you folks are shooting at you.
 

Now if you want to see a fairly accurate film about the Sherman Tank in the ETO. You might want to see Fury.

Now is is some more Technical info about the Sherman

Sherman Tank Site: News Post 12, pictures and cleaning them up, a lot of them.

Sherman Tank Site: News Post 12, things have been changing, its all behind the scenes.

I’ve gotten my hands on a lot of manuals, and they are all great for gathering info on the Sherman, because you can almost always read them. The picture quality varies a huge amount depending on how it was created. There are some very common and easy to find  Sherman manuals with terrible pictures. For example the two I have on the M4A3, and the manual on the Ford GAA, both were probably photocopied multiple times, then scanned on a really early scanner.
This means, the pictures at best, are mostly black blobs, and even the text isn’t great. All isn’t lost with these, as the line drawings usually come through ok.  In some cases the manuals being sold online are these terrible photo copies printed into a cheap book with no improvements to the quality at all.
Some of these manuals have been scanned in by people with decent scanners, and these though much larger, have much nicer photo quality. Even if the scans are good, the original has to be good as well, and in some cases that’s really mixed.  I have several, scanned at very high resolution, making them restorable, to some degree.
I’ve done the most work on the Ford GAA imaged I have, and the tranny. Here is a selection of the ones I’ve done, but not all. Check out the power train and GAA pages for all of them. These are relaxing to do, and I have a ton to work with so keep checking around the site!

#68 The Chrysler Engine that could have been: The A-65 V12, Chrysler’s home designed tank motor.

The Chrysler Engine that could have been: The A-65 V12, if the war had gone on, there could have been some hotrod Shermans.

Chrysler Corporation had a big impact on the war, and US Tank production. They produced the first, and the model for the others, Tank Arsenal CDA.  They also came up with the A-57 multibank tank motor, that powered a significant number of Sherman tanks. They produced this fantastically complicated, but also reliable motor in a very quickly, and even though the US Army and Marine Corps thumbed their noses at it,  it was well liked by the British.

Chrysler on their own dime came up with a water cooled, V12, tank motor, and offered it to the Army.  It took them about a year to come up with three trial motors.  These 1568 cubic motors started out at 650 horsepower at 2600 RPM and 1485 pounds of torque at 1600 RPM on the test stand.  They came in around 3840 pounds, but there was a proposed all aluminum version that have dropped nearly 1000 pounds.  Designing and producing the prototypes, cost a grand total of 358,000 bucks, that’s over 5 million in today’s dollars. During the dyno testing period, they had a few problems with the fan drives, but these were solved with improved oiling and rolling bearings, and these seemed to have solved the problems.

They used an M4A4 as a test vehicle, and had to stretch it another 9 and 1/2 inches to fit the new motor. Installed and ready to roll the thing came in at 69,170 ponds, and a stock M4A4 came in at 69,640 pounds!  Installed, the early versions had 549 horsepower, but they upped the compression ratio and got it to 580, and it was improved even more with some carburetion changes. They made the compression change by swapping and a cam change during the in vehicle testing phase. Further testing led to the intake and carb changes.  All the while the motor was being swapped in and out, and driving tests done.
The automotive tests were very successful, and that was using the stock powertrain of the Sherman, though with so much power, they decided a gear change would help. By swapping the original 3:53:1 gears for 3:05:1 gears, they A65 was still able to beat an M4A43 in a drag race!  The engine was so promising, it’s an interesting mystery why the Army never developed it further.  Much like the GAA, there was much more performance potential in this motor, and the Army never took it any further.
I suspect what ultimately killed this motor, was the same thing that killed the GAA, the Army was looking at air cooled motors for the future, because you can save a lot of weight, if there is not liquid cooling system needed.
Special thanks goes out to Chris R, one of our readers and a source contributor, sent me a nice little history on the motor.  Thanks again Chris, sorry it took so long!!
Sources:  Sherman, by Hunnicutt, and 1943 A-65 Tank Engine History

News Post #10: Sherman Tank Site News!

Sherman Tank Site News, April of 2017 edition: Data Part II, Data Strikes again. 

The Sherman data sheets have been a very popular addition to the site, so I decided to gun and engine data sheets as well.  One motor Data Sheet is done, and the others are in the works. There are all kinds of new images and info in the various pages on the Shermans guns.
We also have a new layout to the website, instead of a lot of hard to find posts with an Index that was hard to find things in, we now have set pages,  of the main menu.

As you can see from this handy image, we have a page for the Shermans suspension and Track systems.  We have a Sherman Gun Data page. We also have a motor data page, but right now we only have the Ford GAA in it.  Now we also have pages for each tank model and a main page to find them.  There have also been minor image additions to many posts, and a few pages have received minor updates.
The Crew and their Stations post got a massive update as well. 
We also recently reviewed an inside the Hatch of the M4A1 tank.
Coming soon will be the Sherman Transmission, differential and final drive data sheet. I will also be filling out the individual Sherman model pages over the next few days. There is only so much I can do in a day!

Thanks for being interested in the site for all the guys who have commented and sent me interesting info. More great information on the Sherman tank is on the way.

 

Sherman Tank Site, News Post 9: DATA, DATA everywhere!

News Post 9: New Years News

I decided I needed more hard numbers, the kind of data that makes non tank nerds eyes roll up in their heads, stuff like how many spare periscopes were issued with an early war M4A1! One of the best way to do this is through tank Data sheets, as found in the back of many books on tanks. I used Hunnicutt’s Sherman book for some, but others I’ve made using the Hunnicutt ones as a template and then using data from the Technical Manual for the tank.
We had four, now have spec sheets for 15 different models of Sherman, and 3 Lees! You can find them all on this page. Shermom Model specification sheets. 

90mm GMC M36B1 Spec Sheet PDF
That’s not all though, I decided the gun Data sheets in Hunnicut were really interesting, so I started replicating those, but with an improved format, and slightly more data.  These gun Data Sheets can be found here, Main Guns: THings that go  BOOM!  All the guns the Sherman tank used are covered, and more are coming.

m1-M1A1-M1A2 guns 76.2 Sherman tanks
In the works are Data Sheets for each Sherman tank motor, and several experimental models. These Data sheets will have much more detailed info on the motor, and will include interesting images from the manuals for the motors.
Also in the works as dedicated pages for these data sheets, the beta test of the gun version is up and can be found here.  Next up will be ones for each tank model and then motor.
Also note the latest post on the Ram tank, The Ram: The Shermans awkward Canadian Cousin. This post covers the Canadian and British attempt to come up with a better Sherman before the Sherman design and prototype was done. I’ve been sent some very interesting documents, some are included in the post.
Thanks for reading and stay tuned for more Sherman information!
 

#30 Sherman Model Specifications: Data, and Lots of It.

Sherman Model Specification Sheets: Detailed Data Sheets For Each Model.

These were a pain in the rear to make, the ones in the back of my copy of Hunnicutt are very bad, so I have reproduced some in Word, and then print them out as PDFs, then take a screen shot of the PDF for this post. I have now hosted all the PDF files, if you want something with copy and pasteable text. I’ve got a system not for these and it’s semi easy to do, so I will keep adding them. I also added at least one, and up to five images with each spec sheet, of the Sherman the spec sheet is for. You can click to enlarge all these images, the sizes very.

M3 Lee spec Sheet




M3 Lee spec sheet in PDF


M3A2 Spec Sheet

M3A2 Lee Spec Sheet in PDF


Early Production M4 75


M4 Early spec sheet

 
M4 Mid Production


Early M4A1 75




M4A1 Early Spec Sheet


Mid Production M4A1 75




M4A1 75 mid war spec sheet


Mid production M4A2 75


M4A2 75 mid production spec sheet


Mid production M4A3 75




M4A3 75d mid spec sheet
 

M4A3 75 wet large hatch VVSS




M4A3 75w spec sheet


Early M4A4 75 



Early M4A1 75




M4A1 Early Spec Sheet


Mid Production M4A1 75




M4A1 75 mid war spec sheet


Mid production M4A2 75


M4A2 75 mid production spec sheet


Mid production M4A3 75




M4A3 75d mid spec sheet
 

M4A3 75 wet large hatch VVSS




M4A3 75w spec sheet


Early M4A4 75 



Early M4A1 75




M4A1 Early Spec Sheet


Mid Production M4A1 75




M4A1 75 mid war spec sheet


Mid production M4A2 75


M4A2 75 mid production spec sheet


Mid production M4A3 75




M4A3 75d mid spec sheet
 

M4A3 75 wet large hatch VVSS




M4A3 75w spec sheet


Early M4A4 75 



M4A1 76 wet VVSS




M4A1 76w specsheet


M4A2 76 wet VVSS



 M4A2 76w spec sheet

M4A2 76 wet HVSS


 


M4A2 76w HVSS Easy 8 Spec Sheet


M4A3 76 wet HVSS, or Sherman Easy 8



The M4A3E2 Jumbo 75





M4A3e2 Jumbo spec sheet


Sherman Firefly VC


 
 




Firefly Vc Spec Sheet


M10 GMC






M10 GMC 3inch spec sheet


M36 GMC




M36B1 90mm GMC