Categories
Fieldcraft Gear & Stuff

NIGHT VISION TIPS MAKING BEST USE OF YOUR NATURAL ABILITIES WRITTEN BY BRENT WHEAT

Own the night — knowing a few tricks can help your eyes work much better in the darkness.

Of the five senses, eyesight is arguably the most important, and during potential emergencies, it’s critical. While other senses play an important role, your eyes are absolutely necessary to locate and evaluate threats, maneuver within your environment, use cover to advantage and effectively target your weapon if necessary.

Sight is so critical, yet it has a serious shortfall — it doesn’t work well at night. Though human eyes aren’t as efficient during low light as a cat or raccoon, there are things you can do to maximize your abilities within the limitations of our species. First, let’s look at the physiological facts.

Anatomy 101

The light-sensitive layer of cells at the back of the eyeball is called the retina, the equivalent of the film in a camera. This layer is comprised of two types of cells: rods and cones. The cones require a large amount of light to operate, can distinguish all colors in the spectrum and primarily function during daylight or bright situations. Unfortunately, they are nearly useless at night.

The rod cells serve the opposite function. They incorporate a light-sensitive protein known as Rhodopsin, often called “visual purple,” which activates the rod cells and allows you to see at night. Cone cells can be thought of as a high-quality video camera, while rod cells are essentially low-resolution black-and-white webcam.

The greatest abundance of low-light rod cells are a few degrees off the central axis of the eyeball,
so looking a bit away from your center of attention will actually produce a better image.

Rod (night) vision is not as effective as cone (daylight) vision and only allows you to distinguish black, white, shades of grey and the general outline of objects. Our eyes contain mostly cone cells, concentrated at the rear of the eye where most light falls. The more specialized low-light rod cells are scattered throughout the retina.

Several factors affect night vision. Exposure to bright light quickly breaks down the visual purple and ‘blinds’ the rod cells until the protein regenerates. Rhodopsin is chemically related to vitamin A, so a deficit of this vitamin can decrease night vision. Illness, headaches, fatigue, drugs, alcohol and heavy smoking also reduce your ability to see at night.

Thermal imaging devices literally highlight warm objects, but they are also bulky, delicate, depend on batteries
for power and are incredibly expensive!

In The Dark

Most folks already realize night vision does not start working immediately after the lights go out. It takes about thirty minutes for the rod cells to produce enough visual purple to reach maximum effectiveness. Thus, if you know you’re going to be operating in low light, it is important to spend at least a few moments in the dark before setting out. If you can spare 20 minutes, your night vision will be much improved.

One common night-vision-killer is your vehicle’s interior lights. Opening a door instantly leads to a flood of white light, which quickly ruins your night vision. Fortunately, there are workarounds.

You can purchase red or blue interior bulbs, use red lens-repair tape from an automotive store or remove them altogether. Fortunately, most relatively new vehicles have a switch to disable interior lights.

Leaving the interior lights off is standard procedure on police and military transportation and isn’t a bad idea if you feel like you might reasonably encounter 2-legged danger around your vehicle. Risky situations aside, this is also a smart idea for avid hunters, pre-dawn anglers, morning joggers or anyone else traipsing about during the darkness hours. If you need the interior lights to find your lost glove, you can always turn them on!

Putting a filter over the lens of a flashlight is great for protecting night vision when you don’t need a strong burst of light. Many flashlights of the ‘tactical’ and hunting variety do so, while most small Everyday Carry (EDC) lights do not. This problem falls into the category of “Do the best you can with what you have on hand.” I’ve found a fat finger or two makes a nice, adjustable, improvised low-light filter. But be careful, as some LED lights get quite hot!

 

You’ll never have the night-vision of a coyote but by using some of the techniques mentioned, you can operate effectively
at night without thermal imaging or light-intensifying devices.

Sight Tricks

Even without artificial light, there is usually enough ambient illumination for your eyeballs to work to some degree or another. Rod cells are not located in the center of the retina — the most dark-sensitive region is located six to ten degrees off-axis. This is why the technique of “Off-center vision” works. For example, if you want to examine someone’s face in the dark, you will need to look at their ear. When evaluating a landmark or object, look several feet left or right of it. It takes some practice, but you will be amazed at how well this works.

You must also “scan” with your night vision. Even in dim light, the visual purple eventually bleaches out within 4 to 10 seconds, causing individual rod cells to cease functioning. To compensate, simply shift your glance every few seconds and avoid staring. You have probably noticed that the harder you stare at something in the dark, the more it will seem to float and jump and finally disappear. This is due to the degradation of visual purple.

While electronic night vision devices have evolved to the point where darkness doesn’t pose any substantial hindrance, the old Mark I eyeball is still less bulky, easier and much faster to deploy. Practice these techniques, and you’ll be surprised at how well you can “own the night.”

Categories
All About Guns Gear & Stuff

The Quietest 50 BMG Ever ??? (Carbon Fiber 50 BMG Suppressed)

Categories
Gear & Stuff

GRUESOME result of medieval SWORD strike on HEAD.

Categories
Gear & Stuff

German Helmets WW1 – The Pickelhaube

Categories
Gear & Stuff

Inside the Kaiser’s Closet – Swords & Daggers

Categories
All About Guns Gear & Stuff

M1 Garand Accessories and WW2 Gear

Categories
Gear & Stuff War

The Fascinating Story Behind the Molotov Cocktail and How It Got Its Name

Categories
Gear & Stuff

The new Swiss Army Knife

Categories
Gear & Stuff

1791 Gunleather Blog How To Break In & Preserve Your Leather Holster

Nothing beats the quality craftsmanship and smell of fresh, fine, natural leather. While Nylon and Kydex retain a uniform shape and are easy to maintain, any honest gunslinger will tell you: the look and feel just isn’t the same. Leather holsters are generally much more comfortable and quieter than synthetic holsters. A premium-quality leather holster should last a lifetime, as long as it is well-maintained.

For more than four generations, 1791 Gunleather artisans have been handcrafting fine holsters that positively and reliably hold your firearm in leather you’ll be proud to own. You may notice your holster feels stiff and tight out of the box. It may be difficult to holster or draw your handgun initially. If drawing and holstering the firearm a few times doesn’t do the trick, then you’ll need to break the holster in to find a perfected fit.

How To Break-In A Leather Holster

Use a blocking technique to stretch the leather just enough to get a smooth draw. Place your firearm in a thick plastic bag. You can use a shopping bag or a Ziploc freezer bag. Some people use two sheets of wax paper (with the waxed side toward the leather). Wedge the firearm down into the holster, and let it sit for at least 24 hours. Remove the bag and test the draw, wearing the holster as you would for your intended use, without the plastic bag.

What NOT To Do:

We do NOT recommend using a lubricant like spray silicone or Leather Lightning to grease up the inside of your holster. You don’t want a gun slippery as it may slide out of the holster unintentionally. Beyond that, you don’t want to tarnish the finish of your firearm. The interiors of our holsters are hand-finished to protect your pistol’s bluing.

Want A Leather Holster That’ll Last A Lifetime?

1791 Gunleather holsters are made to last forever. A little care can go a long way in preserving the quality.

Leather Holster Care Do’s:

  • Use warm water and glycerin soap or Leather Lotion to remove impurities with a smooth finish.
  • Most leather holsters should only be cleaned with soap once every three to four months.
  • You may clean your holster with Bick 4 Conditioner or Fiebing’s Foaming Saddle Soap very sparingly.
  • Wipe off sweat, dust, dirt, or blood with a soft towel.
  • Stubborn dirt or stains can be gently scrubbed with a soft-bristled brush.
  • Maintain a layer of clothing between you and the holster to minimize perspiration.
  • If the leather has dampened, place the holster in a dry place to allow for natural air-drying.
  • Store your leather holster in a cool, dry location, wrapped in a soft cotton cloth or in the original box.
  • Minor cosmetic scratches will come off by rubbing olive, baby, or saddle oil into the scratch with a Q-tip.
  • Apply rubbing alcohol in a circular motion to minimize the appearance of deeper scratches.

Leather Holster Care Don’ts:

  • Do not leave your holster on the car dash or expose it to direct sunlight for extended periods of time.
  • Do not store your holster in the trunk of the car, an outdoor shed, the garage, or an attic.
  • Do not submerge your holster in water or any other liquid.
  • Do not use mink oil, Neat’s oil, or leather conditioner, which will soften and distort the molding.
  • Do not dry your holster with a hair dryer, radiator, oven, or laundry machine.
  • Do not store your holster within reach of your dog who may mistake it for a rawhide chew.
Categories
Gear & Stuff War

WWII US Army Basic Combat Gear