Category: Fieldcraft

African safari hunting: Blue Wildebeest by John McAdams

Post author By Grumpy
Post date December 12, 2021
No Comments on African safari hunting: Blue Wildebeest by John McAdams

It has been quite a while since I’ve done an African animal profile. However, it’s now the peak of the hunting season in most countries in Africa. In honor of this, I’ll continue to post further profiles of African animals over the next few weeks in the same spirit that I wrote about the impala and warthog this time last year.
Perhaps these reports will inspire some readers to pursue dreams of hunting in Africa. Today, I’m writing about the bread and butter of almost any African plains game safari: the blue wildebeest.

Description and distribution

Blue wildebeest — also known as brindled gnu or black-bearded wildebeest — are a large, muscular species of antelope with large horns that curve in and upward. Males are slightly larger and darker in coloration than females and can weigh up to 600 pounds and stand 4-5 feet tall. Females are known to weigh as much as 550 pounds.
Most adult blue wildebeest have a deep, silvery gray or brownish coat with manes of long, jet-black fur. Blue wildebeest also have dark brown stripes on their necks and ribs, giving them their nickname of brindled gnu. Both males and females have horns, though males generally have significantly larger horns than females.
Safari Club International recognizes four subspecies of blue wildebeest: the white-bearded wildebeest, the Nyasa wildebeest, the Cookson wildebeest and the common blue wildebeest.
The white-bearded wildebeest is sometimes further broken down into the eastern and western white-bearded wildebeest subspecies, and it is found on the border between Kenya and Tanzania and is common in both countries. Their coats are lighter in color than the other subspecies of blue wildebeest, and they usually have white hair in their mane and on their face. Interestingly, their manes are lank and do not stand up.
The Nyasa wildebeest is the smallest specimen of blue wildebeest, and they live in southern Tanzania and northern Mozambique. They were once present in Malawi (formerly known as Nyasaland, hence the subspecies name), but are now extinct there. Nyasa wildebeest have a more brownish color to their coats than the other subspecies of blue wildebeest. The hairs on their manes are somewhat rigid and stick up in the air.
The Cookson wildebeest is the largest of all the wildebeest and is found only in the Luangwa Valley of Zambia. Their coat is grayer in color than any other subspecies. Like the white-bearded wildebeest, their manes also are lank.
The common blue wildebeest is the most widespread of any species of blue wildebeest and are found in Mozambique, Swaziland, Zimbabwe, South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, Angola and Zambia. Of these countries, South Africa offers the best hunting, both in sheer numbers of animals and in trophy quality, for the common blue wildebeest.
Of the top 25 common blue wildebeest in the SCI record book, 23 were taken in South Africa (the other two were taken in Namibia). However, Namibia and Zimbabwe also provide outstanding trophy-quality blue wildebeest. Like the Nyasa wildebeest, the common blue wildebeest manes are rigid and stick up in the air.

This excellent common blue wildebeest was taken in Namibia and easily made the SCI record book.

Blue wildebeest are grazing animals and generally live in herds of 20-50 animals, or more in more open terrain. Their snouts are well adapted for feeding on grass, which is their favorite food. However, the blue wildebeest will also eat shrubs and leaves if grass is in short supply.
Though blue wildebeest are most often found in open terrain, they can also be found in areas with thick vegetation as well. They are resilient animals, but are dependent on water and will drink twice daily when water is available. As a result, they are most often found in moist grasslands and in other areas near water. Blue wildebeest are often found in the company of zebra, springbok, impala and hartebeest on the open plains.

Hunting methods

There are several possible methods available for hunting blue wildebeest. Probably the most commonly-used method is to attempt a stalk on a feeding herd of blue wildebeest during the morning or evening when they are most active. However, this can be challenging due to the difficulty associated with getting inside shooting range while avoiding the watchful eyes of dozens of blue wildebeest (to say nothing of the zebra, or any other animals with them).
Another commonly used hunting method — if it is legal in the area you will be hunting, and you consider it ethical — is to ambush blue wildebeest from a blind overlooking a water hole.

Cartridges

Blue wildebeest have a well-deserved reputation as tough animals and can take a lot of punishment before they go down for good. Indeed, they have the nickname “the poor man’s cape buffalo” for a good reason. For this reason, it is important that hunters be appropriately armed when pursuing them.
Since they are so tough, the. 308 Winchester is the minimum caliber that I recommend for use on a blue wildebeest at short to medium range (out to 200 yards). For some of the longer shots that may present themselves in open areas, cartridges such as the .30-06 Springfield and the .300 and .338 Winchester Magnums are also great choices.
For those that prefer even larger caliber rifles, a hunter pursuing blue wildebeest using a rifle chambered in 9.3x62mm or .375 H&H is not using “too much gun” on one of these tough animals.

Shot placement

A saying among those who have pursued blue wildebeest is that “they are born sick and get stronger and run farther with each lead pill you give them.” Like I stated above, blue wildebeest are tough and must be taken seriously by hunters. While they are not normally aggressive toward humans, it is not uncommon to hear about wounded blue wildebeest charging and injuring hunters.
For this reason, it is essential that hunters use deeply-penetrating bullets and place their shots appropriately. Additionally, no matter what cartridge and bullet they use, hunters should not be afraid to take a rapid follow-up shot, if possible. This can potentially avoid a frustrating and/or dangerous situation further down the road.

A good, quality bullet placed as indicated will result in a quick, ethical kill.

Fortunately, shot placement on blue wildebeest is not complicated. When they are standing broadside, simply aim along the back edge of the front shoulder approximately one-third the way up their body. This will result in a heart/lung shot, and the wildebeest will likely not go far after the shot.
However, I do not recommend that taking frontal shots on blue wildebeest. As you can see in the photo below, there is a small window to the vitals, and it is easy to hit too far to either side, or hit the animal’s snout. In either case, there is a high risk of wounding and losing the blue wildebeest. For the same reasons, I do not recommend head or neck shots, except for experienced marksmen and hunters.

Blue wildebeest are among the most widely-distributed and commonly-pursued species in Africa. They are also nearly as tough and challenging to hunt as a Cape buffalo, but much more affordable. Due to this, the blue wildebeest is considered one of the cornerstones of a “classic” safari almost anywhere you go on the continent.
No safari is complete without a blue wildebeest, and I highly recommend adding one to your list if you’re planning a trip to Africa in the near future.

All About Guns Fieldcraft

Someone is going to a warm spot one day for doing this! (Putting such a classic on the dirt & half coked to boot, jeez!)

Post author By Grumpy
Post date December 12, 2021
No Comments on Someone is going to a warm spot one day for doing this! (Putting such a classic on the dirt & half coked to boot, jeez!)

All About Guns Fieldcraft Gear & Stuff

Holsters – Wild West Tech

Post author By Grumpy
Post date December 1, 2021
No Comments on Holsters – Wild West Tech

https://youtu.be/UUO_OoWHyqU

Fieldcraft

And you thought a 30-30 was overkill right?

Post author By Grumpy
Post date November 28, 2021
No Comments on And you thought a 30-30 was overkill right?

All About Guns Fieldcraft Gun Info for Rookies

The best shooting positions for hunting by John McAdams

Post author By Grumpy
Post date November 28, 2021
No Comments on The best shooting positions for hunting by John McAdams

Unfortunately, many hunters do the vast majority of their shooting from a bench rest, which is not the best practice for taking shots under typical hunting conditions. Now I don’t know about you, but I’ve never taken a shot at a deer or any other big game species from a bench rest.
For this reason, it is important that hunters learn to shoot from positions they are more likely to use when hunting. This article describes my choices for the best hunting shooting positions and the advantages and disadvantages for each one.
There are four primary positions that most hunters and shooters use that I’ll discuss in this article. From least stable to most stable, these positions are: standing, kneeling, sitting and prone. All of these positions may be used both with and without additional external support, such as shooting sticks or a sling.
The descriptions of each position in this article are those that I’ve found are best suited for hunting and will not necessarily be the best choices for shooting in a competition. Additionally, the exact details of each position listed here are the ones that work best for me, which may not be the best for you.
Luckily, there are several variations of each position that you may use in accordance with your equipment, flexibility and the exact situation in which you may find yourself. Finally, keep in mind that I am left-handed, so all of the photographs of me demonstrating these positions will need to be reversed for a right-handed shooter.

Be careful not to let anything touch the rifle barrel in the standing shooting position.

1. Standing shooting position

The standing shooting position is the fastest shooting position to assume. The standing position also typically gives the hunter the best field of view, allowing him or her to see over all but the tallest grass and brush. Unfortunately, the standing position is also the least stable shooting position.
However, this is not really a problem when shooting at close range. As a result, the standing position is most commonly used by hunters in thick woods who need to make a rapid shot at relatively close range. While the maximum range a hunter should shoot at using this position varies, I personally do not like to take a shot past 50 yards using an unsupported standing position.
During all of my years of hunting, I’ve only taken a handful of completely unsupported standing shots while hunting. However, every single one of them was at an animal that I encountered at very close range (5-20 yards) in thick cover. In these situations, my ability to take a rapid shot was more important than assuming a more stable shooting position.
When possible, I use a supported shooting position. Support can come from a variety of sources: shooting sticks, a tree, etc. Of these, a tree is my favorite choice because I don’t have to carry it with me, and there is almost always one within easy reach when walking through the woods.
When using a tree (or similar object) for support, simply take your nondominant hand and form a “V” with your thumb and index finger. Cradle the stock of your rifle in the “V,” and use your thumb to grip the tree and your fingers to grip the side of stock, pulling the rifle snugly against the tree.
Depending on what side of the tree you are shooting from, you may reverse this configuration and use your fingers to grip the tree and your thumb to grip the stock. Either will work, as it all depends on the situation and what works best for you. Whatever you do, make sure that nothing touches the barrel of the rifle, as this will negatively affect your accuracy.

See how my left elbow is unsupported in the kneeling shooting position?

2. Kneeling shooting position

The kneeling shooting position is the second-fastest shooting position to assume, and when done correctly, provides a fairly stable shooting position. Unfortunately, only one elbow is supported when using the kneeling position, which is obviously not ideal. The kneeling position also gives the hunter the ability to see over brush, grass and other things obscuring the target, though not as much as when standing. At the same time, the kneeling position also presents a smaller, more difficult to spot profile.
The kneeling position is a good one to use when the hunter doesn’t have much time to take a shot, or needs to shoot over brush or grass obscuring the target, but the target is too far away to take an ethical shot while standing.
To assume a kneeling position, place your dominant-side knee on the ground at an approximately 90-degree angle from your nondominant knee. If you can, turn your dominant-side foot so that as much of it as possible contacts the ground, then sit on your foot. This will provide a more stable position than sitting on your heel. However, not everyone is flexible enough to do this, so do what works best for you.
Rest your support-side arm on the front of your nondominant knee using the flat, meaty part of your arm just above your elbow. Do not rest the “point” of your elbow on your kneecap, as this will provide an unstable platform.
Though not demonstrated here, the kneeling shooting position may also be used in conjunction with other forms of support such as shooting sticks or a sling to make it more stable. When ample time and resources are available, it is always a good idea to use additional measures to assist you in making your position more stable.

The sitting position provides support for both elbows.

3. Sitting shooting position

The sitting position takes a little more time to achieve than the kneeling position, but is stable. Though the hunter’s line of sight is usually slightly lower when compared to the kneeling position, it is still typically high enough to see over most objects obscuring the target.
This is usually the best shooting position to assume when the hunter has ample time to prepare for the shot, but the circumstances are not suitable for using the prone shooting position. The big advantage that sitting has over kneeling is that both elbows are supported instead of just one when kneeling.
There are several variants of the sitting position, but here I’ll discuss probably the most common: cross-legged.
To assume a sitting shooting position, sit down cross-legged and pull both legs as close to the body as you can. The idea is to get as close to the ground as possible. Push your knees down as far as you can, lean forward and rest the flat, meaty portion of both of your arms just above your elbows in front of your knees. Just like when shooting from the kneeling position, do not rest the “point” of your elbow on top of your knee.
The sitting position is usually uncomfortable the first few times you try it. However, the more you practice, the more comfortable it will become. When used properly, the sitting position can be nearly as stable as the prone position, and experienced shooters can shoot accurately at long range using this position.
Additionally, like the kneeling position, the sitting shooting position may also be used in conjunction with a sling, shooting sticks, a bipod, or some other form of support to make it even more stable.

Note how high the grass is compared to my line of sight in the prone shooting position.

4. Prone shooting position

The prone position is the slowest position to achieve, but it is the most stable. Since the hunter is so close to the ground when prone, this makes it easier to hide from game without being spotted. However, this also makes it difficult for the hunter to see the target if there is any grass or brush in the way.
Because of these disadvantages, the prone position is only the best choice when there is plenty of time to prepare for the shot and when there are no objects in the way to obscure the target.
To get into the prone shooting position, assume the push-up position behind your rifle. Then, lower your body to the ground straight behind your rifle with your nondominant hand supporting the forend of the rifle, as close as possible to being directly below it.
Next, spread your legs and point your toes outward with your ankles flat on the ground. Not everyone will be able to do this, but the idea is to get as much of your body as possible in contact with the ground. Then, pull the butt of the rifle firmly into the pocket of your shoulder with your dominant hand.
Though it is possible to shoot from the prone position in both a supported and unsupported manner, if you have enough time to get into a good prone shooting position, then you likely have enough time to use some form of support. Doing so will dramatically increase your stability and make shooting at long distance much easier. Support can encompass a wide range of objects such as a backpack, a log or a bipod.
When using a “soft” form of support, such as a backpack, place the forend of the rifle directly on it. When shooting across something harder, like a log or a rock, it may help to place some form of padding between the rifle and the object, such as a rolled-up jacket. Do not let anything directly touch the barrel, as this will adversely affect your accuracy.
Additionally, it is always a good idea to use some form of support beneath the rear of the rifle’s stock, if possible. You can purchase a purpose built monopod or shooting bag for this purpose, or you can just use an old sock filled with sand or beads.
Using your support hand, place the bag beneath the rear sling swivel and increase or decrease pressure on it to depress or elevate your muzzle. Using a rear bag makes the prone shooting position even more stable and a good shooter is capable of excellent accuracy when using one.

Note the black and green sock beneath the butt of the rifle.

Keep in mind that there is no “best” hunting shooting position for all situations. Each position has strengths and weaknesses, and it is up to the hunter to choose the position that allows him or her to take the most accurate and ethical shot.
For this reason, it is important that you are familiar with several different positions and have practiced them during the offseason. This will enable you to determine exactly which positions work best for you so you can assume the most appropriate shooting position quickly and make a good shot when it counts.

Fieldcraft

A Primer on the Ax: How to Use an Ax Safely and Effectively

Post author By Grumpy
Post date November 15, 2021
No Comments on A Primer on the Ax: How to Use an Ax Safely and Effectively

Brett | February 23, 2016

Manly Skills, Toolmanship

bearded man with ax over shoulder illustration

In this 3-part series on the ax, we’ve talked about the tool’s history and anatomy, and how to choose the right one for your needs. Today we’ll conclude the series by offering a primer on how to use your ax safely and effectively.

How to Swing an Ax

Preparing for Chopping

Clear your swinging/chopping area. Before you start swinging your ax, you’ll want to prepare your chopping area. You need plenty of room to swing an ax, and you don’t want anything (not even a twig) to get in the way of your swing, as it can cause you to miss your mark, or deflect the ax into your own body. So remember this maxim: “Clear the ground an ax-length’s around.” An “ax-length” means the length of the handle plus the length of your arm. “Around” means overhead and underneath, in front and back, and on both sides. To check that you’ve got this clearance, hold your ax by the head and slowly swing it in all directions. Remove any branches or brush that touch the handle.
Besides clearing the path for your ax’s swing, clear the ground of any roots or loose rocks that you could stumble or slip on. And make sure no one’s standing too close to you: “Onlookers stay two ax-lengths away.”
Hold the ax properly. If you’re right-handed, hold the ax so that your left hand sits just above the knob at the end of the handle, palm facing towards you. Your right hand should grasp the neck a few inches below the ax’s head, with its palm facing away. If you’re a lefty, just reverse the instructions.
Hold the ax with a grip that’s firm but not tense. When you swing at your target, your top hand will slide down to the bottom, so that your two hands meet.
Focus on accuracy first, not power. It won’t do any good to swing an ax as hard as you can if it hits in completely different spots every single time. You’ll cut more wood much more quickly and efficiently if you hit the wood in about the same spot every time you strike it. So focus on accuracy first; keep your eyes trained on the spot you want to hit, and concentrate on keeping your aim true and using controlled strokes. Once you get accurate with swinging an ax, then you can add in speed and power.

Swinging the Ax

Lateral Swings
Lateral chops are rarely true horizontals and usually more like diagonal swings going from the top down. You primarily use a lateral swing to fell a tree.

Felling a tree. When striking a tree laterally, set-up is key. For maximum power and safety, follow this rule set out in The Ax Book: “For all sideways or diagonal chopping strokes, strike only at targets lying past your front in the direction of chopping.” This is to say, rather than standing directly in front of the tree you’re chopping, you want to offset yourself so that the tree is in front of your lead foot (your left foot if you’re right-handed). Setting yourself up this way will put your target (the tree) “past your front” in the direction of your chopping. This position will allow you to follow through on your swing, but also reduce the chances of injuring yourself if the ax head ricochets off the tree when you strike.
We’ve previously gone into detail about how to fell a tree with a chainsaw, and the same basic principles apply to doing it with an ax. Felling a tree with an ax, however, is more difficult and dangerous because you lack the precision with your cut that you can achieve with a chainsaw.
Just like with using a chainsaw, you’ll make an initial 45-degree face cut on the side of the tree that faces the direction you want it to fall. The difference between felling a tree with an axe comes in how you do the back cut. Instead of making the back cut perfectly perpendicular to the tree like you would with a chainsaw, you’re going to make another 45-degree cut with your ax on the opposite side and two inches aboveyour face cut. This will create a hinge and if everything goes to plan, the tree will begin to fall down in the direction of your face cut.
Vertical Swings
Vertical chops are those that go up and down. You use vertical swings when limbing, bucking, and splitting wood.

man limbing a tree with an ax illustration

For small branches you can lop them off with one stroke to the base; for medium-to-large branches, make 2 cuts — first at an angle, and then at the branch’s base, parallel to the tree.

Limbing. Limbing is when you remove the branches from a felled tree. Remove the limbs on top of the downed tree first, so that when you remove the bottom limbs, if the tree falls or moves, the top branches won’t flail about and scratch or impale you. Stand on the opposite side of the trunk from where you’re cutting and always chop limbs off in the direction of the top of the tree; do not cut into the “crotch” of the limb.
For medium- to large-sized limbs, aim to remove them with two strokes. Land the first at an angle a few inches up from its base. This will loosen its resistance on the tree. Then do a second stroke that’s parallel to the tree and aimed at the limb’s base. For smaller limbs, you can shear them off with one stroke: cut sharply into the base at a slight downward angle, rather than parallel to the tree.

Bucking. If you’ve felled a tree, you’ll need to buck it into smaller, more manageable logs. To do this with an ax, stand on top of the log you wish to buck, with your feet a bit wider than shoulder-width apart. You’re going to chop a “V” shaped notch in the part of the log between your legs, chopping halfway into one side, and halfway into the other. You want the kerf, or the cut you’re making, to be as wide as the tree is thick; aim for an angle of cut about 45 degrees.
Bring the ax above your right shoulder and swing it down between your legs. Continue until you cut the right side of the notch out. Turn your body to the left and chop the left side of the “V”-shaped notch out. Once you’ve created a V-shape on one half of the log, turn around and chop another V on the other side of the log until the two notches meet.
Splitting. It’s not recommended that you split logs with the same ax you use for felling; a splitting maul is more appropriate for the job. We’ve covered how to split wood previously.
You can also split small sticks and dead branches into small kindling with an ax, though again it’s not the best tool for the task — a hatchet is. Whether you use a hatchet or ax, you ideally want to split loose wood on some solid surface. In trying to split small wood on the ground, you may miss, driving the ax head into the ground, where it can become damaged by grit or rocks.
So if you need to split a stick, place it on a solid, sufficiently broad log or stump. Having something to back it will protect the ax at the finish of the stroke.

For small sticks, it’s actually easier, faster, and safer not to swing at them at all, but rather to split it using the “contact” method. To split a stick down the middle, wedge the ax’s bit into its center, and then bring the wood and ax down together on your chopping block. Twist the wood some if needed and it will usually split apart. To chop a stick in two, set the bit on a slant across its grain. Raise the stick and ax together and bring them down onto the block.

How to Handle an Ax Safely When Not in Use

Muzzle the blade. A properly sharpened ax can easily slice through clothing and body tissue, which is why you need to take great care when swinging one. But that circumscription must also carry over to when you’re not using your ax. As outdoorsman Bernard Mason writes in his book Woodsmanship, unsheathed axes have a tendency to “bite.” That is, axes find a way to cut or nick people even when they’re lying inert on the ground — folks can accidentally kick the ax or fall on it.
To prevent these ax bites, always “muzzle” your ax when you’re not using it by putting on its sheath.
If your sheath isn’t handy, take the following precautions to ensure that your ax doesn’t jump up and bite someone while you’re not using it:
If it’s a single-bitted ax, stick the cutting edge into a log. Never lay it down on the ground or lean it against a tree.
If it’s a double-bitted ax, sticking one cutting edge into a log still leaves another cutting edge exposed. To remedy that, drive one bit into a small piece of wood before you stick the other bit into the log. Better yet, lay the ax on the ground, but place the head under the log so that both cutting edges are hidden.
how to carry walk with ax safely illustration
Hold the ax pointing down and away from you while walking. When you walk with your ax, it’s tempting to throw it over your shoulder like you’d imagine an old-time lumberjack would do. But that’s not the safest way to carry an ax; if you trip, you could fall into the ax’s blade, and if it’s an unsheathed double bit, the blade could cut into your back. Instead, you’ll want to ideally sheathe your ax and then grip it just beneath the head with the bit pointed outward. If you stumble, toss the ax away from you and other people.
Hand someone an ax with care. When handing someone an ax, hold it by the handle, with the head hanging down vertically. Wait until the other fellow has a firm grip on the handle before you release yours.

How to Take Care of Your Ax

With proper care, an ax can last for generations. To ensure that your grandson is using your ax when you’re long gone, observe the following guidelines:
Keep your ax sheathed and indoors when not using it. Don’t leave your ax outside and exposed to the elements. Moisture will cause the ax head to rust and the wooden handle to warp. When you’re done with your ax, store it in a dry place like your garage or shed.
Keep your ax sharp. As old Abe Lincoln said, “Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe.” A sharp ax is an effective and safe ax. See our post on how to sharpen bladed tools for instructions on sharpening.
Never use an ax as a hammer. While the poll/butt end of an ax head makes for a convenient and tempting hammer, you always want to use the right tool for the right job. An ax is not a hammer and shouldn’t be used for driving in nails or stakes.
Don’t chop with a cold ax. If you’re chopping in cold weather, warm the ax head a bit by the fire before you get started. Striking a cold steel ax head can cause it to chip or even shatter. When warming the ax head by the fire, don’t get it too hot — fire takes the temper (hardness) out of steel. It’s warm enough if you can still touch the ax head with your hand.

Series Conclusion

Our pioneer forebearers relied on 3 main tools: the knife, the gun, and the ax. Of these, the ax was arguably the most important. An ax is a uniquely versatile tool; with it you can fell trees to make shelter or a raft, split firewood to keep your warm, and make parts to construct other tools and utensils. And of course it can be used as a deadly weapon as well. If you were stuck on an desert island or forced to navigate the apocalypse, and could only choose one tool, you’d be well-served by selecting the ax.
In these easier and more civilized times, the ax isn’t as central to most men’s lives, but it can still be a trusty tool to store in your woodshed and take along on outdoor adventures.
So keep those axes sharp and stay manly!