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The .45 Colt: History and Performance by DAVE CAMPBELL

Campbell 45 Colt 1

To understand firearm development, it is necessary to have some knowledge of the economy during their progress. The Civil War brought about a great increase in economic opportunities—hence industrialization—to the Union. Manufacturing business grew at a phenomenal rate. The war created a huge market for firearms and fueled the development of their technology.

While the waging of war created the demand, it was the Reconstruction period after the war that brought about a maturation of that booming economy. The U.S. military—primarily the army at that time—needed better firearms with which to serve the country.

Single-shot and repeating rifles fed by cartridges that were ignited with a primer pressed into the center of the rear of the case replaced cap-and-ball muzzleloaders and rimfire-primed cartridges. Revolvers—which had progressed nicely into the cap-and-ball technology—began seeing their own cartridge development to centerfire-primed rounds. They were very popular with the cavalry because they could be operated with one hand and offered as many as six shots before requiring a reload.

Colt rather quickly came out with a Benet-primed .44 Colt cartridge for its Richards-Mason conversion of the 1860 Army. The actual diameter of the heeled, outside-lubricated bullet was .451″to .454″, and it featured a 225-gr., conical lead bullet in front of 23 grains of FFg blackpowder for a velocity of 640 f.p.s. and 207 ft.-lbs. of energy. Charles B. Richards, an engineer at Colt, and William Mason, a gunsmith who came to Colt from Remington in 1866, worked together on the .44 Colt cartridge, which was introduced in 1871.

The Richards-Mason conversion was a stopgap measure as the company retooled and set up to manufacture what would become the Colt Model 1871-72 Open Top revolver. This revolver was chambered in the more powerful .44 Henry Rimfire cartridge, a major step up in power from the .44 Colt. It was capable of kicking a 200-gr. conical ball bullet out at 1,125 f.p.s. with 568 ft.-lbs. of energy, though these numbers are probably from a rifle.

Buffalo Bore .45 Colt available today loaded with a 255 gr. lead bullet.

Nonetheless, the army bought several thousand of them for its cavalrymen during the revolver’s two-year production run. Three things became very clear. The army wanted a more powerful revolver. It did not want outside-lubricated bullets that pick up dirt and grit from the field. And a revolver tough enough to stand up to these rigors must have an enclosed window for the cylinder, what we now refer to as a solid frame.

Richards and Mason began developing a new revolver and teamed up with ammunition engineers at Remington to manufacture the cartridges. Both the revolver—the 1873 Colt Single Action Army(SAA)—and its cartridge, the .45 Colt, would become iconic in the annals of firearm development. The .45 Colt retains the bullet diameter of its .44 Colt predecessor at .452″ – .454″ but kicks the weight of the bullet up to 255 grains.

After playing with loads with bullets as light as 225 grains and powder weights from 28 to 40 grains, they settled on the 255-gr. bullet in front of 40 grains of FFg blackpowder for 840 f.p.s. with about 400-ft.-lbs. of wallop out of a revolver. Production of ammo and revolver began in 1873. The army quickly saw the improvement of both revolver and load, as did civilians, and the Colt .45, as it became commonly called, generated a great reputation as a man-stopper.

All of the preceding did not occur in a vacuum. Smith & Wesson had been hard at work on its No. 3 revolver in .45 caliber. In fact, the army adopted the No. 3 in 1870 chambered in .44 Smith & Wesson American. But the brass wanted more power. Major George W. Schofield had an engineering improvement to the Model 3. Instead of mounting the spring-loaded barrel latch on the barrel, he reversed it and mounted the latch on the frame.

Hornady .45 Colt cartridges loaded with a .255 gr. FTX bullet.

The army specified that the revolver would chamber the .45 Colt cartridge, but the Smith & Wesson revolver’s cylinder was too short do it was chambered in a shorter .45 Smith & Wesson—often referred to as the .45 Schofield, adopted in 1875. The Smith & Wesson cartridge would function in the Colt SAA but not vice-versa. Army quartermasters had headaches trying to sort out ammo for each revolver. Frankfort Arsenal, which supplied nearly all the ammo for the Army, simply ceased loading the .45 Colt and supplied the troops with .45 S&W cartridges.

Somewhere in all of this the .45 Colt nomenclature was colloquially changed to “.45 Long Colt” to differentiate it from the shorter S&W cartridge. From bank heists to battlefields, train robbers to shopkeepers, the .45 Colt and the SAA was king. Sure, there were plenty of those finely made Smith & Wessons, but out on the frontier far from gunsmiths, people counted on the robustness of the SAA and its man-or-beast-busting .45-cal. cartridge.

They must have done something right because, 147 years later, the cartridge continues to be loaded. Other than in wartime, there hasn’t been a hitch in production of the .45 Colt cartridge. The military could not leave well enough alone. Some 21 years after the introduction of the Colt SAA and its .45-caliber round, the military adopted the Model 1892 Colt double-action revolver chambered in a .38 Long Colt cartridge developed in 1875, featuring a 150-gr. lead, round-nose bullet launched by blackpowder at 708 f.p.s. with a measly 157 ft.-lbs. of energy out of a 6″ barreled revolver.

Sometime later, a smokeless powder load sent a 148-gr. bullet downrange at 750 f.p.s. and 185 ft.-lbs. of energy. Some bad experiences in the Philippines during the Philippine–American War of 1899–1902 against Moro juramentados tribesmen had the army scrambling for anything that could fire .45 Colt cartridges. This led to Colt developing the M1909 round , identical in load to the original .45 Colt round but with a larger rim to accommodate the star-like extractor/ejector of the New Service double-action revolver.

The author’s Ruger Blackhawk chambered for .45 Colt.

M1909 ammunition will not work in single-action revolvers chambered in .45 Colt because the rim diameter interferes with adjoining cartridges. Even as semi-auto pistols began emerging, the .45 Colt has remained a steady-selling cartridge. Two reasons for that is the reliability and longevity of the SAA revolver and the fact is that it plain works.

Whether dealing with desperados, deer or even black bears, in the hands of a decent shot, a man armed with a .45 Colt will go home to his family or bring home the game. In the mid-1950s, a Utah-based gunsmith and experimenter named Dick Casull began exploring the limits of what a .45-cal. handgun could produce. He started with blackpowder-framed Colt SAAs, re-heat treating the frames and converting them to five-shot cylinders.

In 1959 he introduced the .454 Casull cartridge featuring a case 1.383″ long—some .098″ longer than a .45 Colt case—and a thicker web in the head of the case that Casull claimed to get more than 1,900 f.p.s. with a 250-gr. bullet. The power guys went nuts over this, but it would take almost 25 more years before this cartridge would be commercially loaded and have a factory manufacture a revolver that could handle it. In the meantime, Ruger chambered its tough Blackhawk revolver in .45 Colt, as did Thompson/Center in its equally solid Contender single-shot pistol.

Power guys ignored the loading manuals of the day and began dropping huge charges of slow-burning powders into .45 Colt cases to see what they could get away with. Now called T-Rex loads by the brethren, many loading manuals gave loads for these guns expressly and specifically. As for me, if I want an extremely powerful revolver—which I do not anymore—I would choose a cartridge expressly made for those tasks. I like the .45 Colt for what it is: a moderately powerful handgun cartridge that does anything I might ask from a handgun.

A view from the muzzle end of the author’s Ruger Blackhawk chambered for .45 Colt.

As with all my revolvers, save my J-frame Smiths, I prefer to cast hard semi-wadcutters at some 258 grains in my .45-cal. with 9.0 grains of Alliant Unique powder. In my 4 5/8″ Ruger, it gives me about 912 f.p.s. with 476 ft.-lbs. of muzzle thump. If I need more thump, I’ll choose a rifle—too many years of shooting those big bruisers has left me with some arthritis in my hands.

All the major factories load the .45 Colt cartridge today; one of the smaller manufacturers—Garrett, in Texas, loads +P .45 Colt rounds that are expressly for the Rugers. But there are plenty of JHP and SP loads available—outside of the pandemic-induced ammo shortage. There are even relatively soft-recoiling loads for cowboy action shooters. It is the cowboy action shooters that brought another firearm into the .45 Colt fold—rifles.

When the cartridge was introduced, the small diameter and thin rim of the .45 Colt cartridge, along with the straight-walled case, would not feed or extract reliably in the lever-action rifles of the day. Too, it was fueled with blackpowder, which leaves a rather heavy residue. A straight-walled case would often hang up because of that following, especially if the residue was exposed to dampness.

Today, however, WinchesterUbertiHenry and Cimarron have produced replica lever actions chambered in the big 45. Smokeless powders, some engineering tweaks and the clientele who keep their competition guns clean has largely neutered the old attitude toward .45 Colt lever actions. Continuously produced for nearly 150 years, both in ammo and guns, the .45 Colt remains a capable cartridge for field use or even self-defense. I know several fellows who regularly have a single-action revolver on their belt on a daily basis, and that revolver is a .45 Colt.

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A Great Old 20 Gauge Shotgun – The Sears Model 21 Pump

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A Walther P.38 in caliber Martz 9mm Luger

Walther P.38 9mm - NRA Excellent - Martz 9mm Luger - Picture 3
Walther P.38 9mm - NRA Excellent - Martz 9mm Luger - Picture 4
Walther P.38 9mm - NRA Excellent - Martz 9mm Luger - Picture 5
Walther P.38 9mm - NRA Excellent - Martz 9mm Luger - Picture 6
Walther P.38 9mm - NRA Excellent - Martz 9mm Luger - Picture 7
Walther P.38 9mm - NRA Excellent - Martz 9mm Luger - Picture 8
Walther P.38 9mm - NRA Excellent - Martz 9mm Luger - Picture 9
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Some American Classics – The M1 Garand & The M1 Carbine

kilted-veteran:
“M1 and M1A1
”

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Somebody has a lot of faith in that sling

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The Old Timers should could do some fantastic Engraving!

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How to CLEAN Black Powder Pistols by PAUL HELINSKI

Believe it or not, soapy water is the best cleaner to use on Black Powder and substitutes. The advanced gun cleaning products are really made for smokeless power that is not corrosive. There is no guarantee that a cleaner or oil will deactivate the acids in black powder fouling, but soap does.

I guess I should have kind of done this first, because if you went out and shot your guns already, you may have some rusty guns by now lol. Well not lol really. Rusty guns are a tragedy.

It is absolutely imperative that you clean your black powder guns the day you shoot them. Plan ahead for the time that it takes, which can be a half our or so for each one. If you don’t clean them, the acids that occur in black powder fouling will begin to eat away at your surfaces, and this oxidizes into rust, even pitting.

Pyrodex, Triple Se7en, and all the other black powder substitutes will rust your guns. Don’t think you get a pass because you are shooting a modern product. This is not smokeless powder.

There is a video here to watch, and it’s kind of like watching paint dry I know. I cut out another half hour of my ramblings, but I’ll try to get some of the points in here. Don’t take my methodology as something that should be cannonized into a religion. If you are a white glove type, you’ll want to remove your nipples, and probably even take apart the gun. I am a utility guy. For me, good enough is good enough. This methodology has always worked for me.

Before we get onto cleaning, we have to start at the range, or the match, or wherever you are shooting these awesome guns.

While you are shooting the gun, make sure to clean the fouling off the cylinder face. Otherwise the gun will get harder to cock, and eventually you will break the internal parts. Crud builds up on the face and catches on the forcing cone, and it has to be cleaned periodically. With heavily lubed paper cartridges I have seen this to not be as much of a problem.

Black powder creates something called fouling. It is a hard and crusty bit of nastiness than can really screw up your gun if you are not careful. The first place it causes a problem is in your cylinder gap. As you are shooting, you may notice that it gets harder and harder to cock it. This is bad. It means that black powder fouling has built up on the face of the cylinder, and it is now dragging on your forcing cone.

If you feel it getting harder to cock, take a wet rag, or patches if that is all you have, and wipe down your cylinder face right away. Don’t fight the difficulty, because you are putting unnecessary wear and tear on your gun. You don’t need to remove the cylinder really (that that it is hard if you are shooting Remmies), but make sure you tilt it sideways so you can see that you got rid of the build up crud.

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Some of the BP substitutes don’t do that at all. You can shoot Triple Se7en all day and you most likely will not have a problem. I did experience this problem a few times with Pyrodex though. I have a pair of open top cartridge conversions, and they can’t get through three rounds of even Pyrodex without them getting more difficult to cock. So I shoot smokeless in them. Haven’t made any rounds for them since Triple Se7en existed. Maybe someday.

Heavy lube with black powder can also make this problem not as much of a problem. Since I found the paper cartridge kits at cartridgekits.com, I have really been shooting almost exclusively those. When you have a heavy lube jacket on the front like that, the fouling stays soft and greasy, so it doesn’t bind your cylinders at all. I had always used Wonder Wads, and always had to deal with hard fouling. The paper cartidges really changed everything.

Taking Apart Colts

To start you have to remove your barrel from the frame. On a Remington that’s easy. You drop your loading lever and pull your cylinder pin out. The cylinder drops out.

On a Colt, it’s not as easy. You have to remove the wedge, and that means backing out the wedge screw.

Before you begin, make sure you have a set of gunsmithing screwdrivers. I got my set on Ebay, and Amazon has them as well. Brownells also sets of them, but you will most likely pay a lot more. A gunsmithing set has a number of sizes and thicknesses, so you can match the slot exactly.

Push down hard while you turn the screw, and 90% of the time you won’t booger it. Maybe 85%. Ok maybe a majority of the time would be a better approach. It’s a common screw to booger, especially if you bought a used gun and that screw hasn’t been out for decades.

You should purchase gunsmithing screwdrivers before removing your wedge screw. Otherwise you will most likely booger the slot.

Removing the wedge can also be testy on some guns. When you understand the engineering of the gun, you will understand that the barrel is essentially jammed to the frame with a peg that gets knocked in and out. There is also a spring catch on the end of that peg, and you have to push down on the spring while knocking it out.

A wedge tool of some kind will help you a lot if you find that your wedge is stuck. Don’t use steel because it will bend the steel on the front of the wedge. The wedge has to be fairly soft steel. I used to have a brass tool my father made for me, but I lost it at some point when I had abandoned these guns for a decade or so. Recently I found an actual product for sale that is essentially the same thing, and they sell it at cartridgekits.com. It also has a nipple pick.

To remove the barrel from the frame, put the gun on half cock so you can spin the cylinder. Then put the cylinder so that it is between chambers, and use your loading lever to separate the two pieces.

I personally do not take the gun down further than that for cleaning. The screws on these guns are very soft, and very easily boogered. I don’t like the look of boogered screws. And in all my years of shooting these guns, including leaving them for decades in a safe, I have never had a gun break due to rusted internal parts. And that was using Rem-Oil. With Corrosion X, I strongly doubt there is a likelihood that any adverse effects will occur at all.

Cleaning Kits and Components

As I said in the video, the gun I cleaned had been cleaned about a week ago, and I blew some caps and a cylinder of BP through it to kind of dirty it a bit.

When I cleaned it, I didn’t clean it where I normally do, and at home I realized that I had no cleaning kit. So that gun, and several others, were cleaned with a steel rod, pieces of t-shirt, and soapy water. Ultimately, in my experience, that is all you need.

It is a good idea to invest in a good steel range rod that has a brass guard to protect the crown of your barrel. But any rod will work with T-shirt patches, which are my preferred material. I used a Hoppes Walmart kit for the video. A smaller diameter brush keeps the patch solid. It is my preferred method for cleaning.

For the video I bought a Hoppes cleaning kit at Walmart, just so it looked more legit to what you might expect, but I didn’t use much of anything in it. Hoppes does make a black powder solvent, but I don’t use it. Dish soap and water works just fine. And even though I am a big fan of Hoppes for cleaning smokeless powder guns, I don’t use it at when cleaning black powder. Soap makes black powder fouling inert, so it’s just carbon. That’s all you need besides a good oil, and maybe a little grease for the cylinder pin. I used Rem-Oil for decades, but since I discovered Corrosion X I don’t use anything else on guns and knives.

Let’s Get Cleaning!

You are going to clean your guns at the sink. Take a jag or ideally a brush that is a couple sizes too small for your bore, and use that to grab your patches. I make my patches out of old t-shirts. The ones in the Hoppes kit are some kind of plastic and work great on tiny AR barrels, but I don’t find them useful for BP.

Center the brush in the patch, dip it in soapy water, and start by sloshing out the chambers of your cylinder. There will be a lot of black stuff, not what you see in the video, or even close. I usually wash the patch after every cylinder, because there is crusty fouling that comes out. Again, it isn’t as much since I started using lubed paper cartridges.

I start by cleaning my chambers with a soapy wet patch double wrapped. Just a long 22 brush works great.

I don’t really use any fresh patch until the gun is almost clean. I just keep washing it out in the soapy water, and that water gets really black.

The back of the cylinder with the nippes is a tough area to get clean, so I use a toothbrush dipped in the soapy water. I personally do not unscrew the nipples, and in all my years of BP shooting, I think I have only had to take a nipple off once, and it came off easy cleaning the guns the way you see me do it now. So I don’t know if there is a benefit or not.

Then I run the cylinder under water, and swab the chambers out with a clean wet patch. Usually there is very little left, and I can tell you that what there is is just inert carbon, and will not harm your guns. I have never seen the need for any kind of brush inside the chambers.

The same goes for the barrel. I have shot Walkers and Dragoons full snot at 1,000 feet per second or more, and I have never had any leading of the barrel. That would be the only reason to use a brush, and even a brush doesn’t work that good on leading.

For the video I did an obligatory brush of the barrel, but I have never seen a need for it with black powder revolvers. Even with heavy bullets in the 1,000 feet per second range, I have experienced no leading.

My method is to run a soapy wet folded patch on the same cleaning brush. For 44s you can use a .38 brush, and on 36s you can use a 22 brush. Just make a tight fit with the patch by folding it as much as you have to so that the rod turns as it travels down the rifling.

When all the crud is out, run it under water, and put a fresh patch down to make sure it’s all out. You can use the same one you used on the chambers.

For the frame, I use my soapy toothbrush on the cylinder face, the bottom where the cylinder stop is, and on Remingtons, the top strap and around the forcing cone. Then I usually wipe it all down with a clean wet patch. I don’t intentionally pour any water through the action, but I’m sure some gets in.

Then I let the gun dry. There was a time when I would put the guns into a warm oven, but I haven’t done that for years. The reason you would do that is so that surface rust does not form inside the barrel, and as you can see in my video, it did in the hour or so that I left it to dry.

I use Corrosion X liberally before putting the guns away.

After the gun is dried, I put it back together and oil it heavily with Corrosion X. I didn’t show it in the video, but I usually make sure it is drooling out through the trigger guard. When I am done, my hands and the gun are usually covered in Corrosion X, and I put it into it’s sock like that. I store these guns in socks to avoid safe booboos.

 

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A Colt Model: Woodsman Match Target 2nd Series in 22 LR

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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A THE .40-82 WCF ANYTHING BUT EASY WRITTEN BY MIKE “DUKE” VENTURINO

Duke’s altered Model 1886 .40-82 (top) with a 20″ barrel shown for comparison
with a new Japanese Winchester Model 1886 .45-70 with its standard 26″ barrel.

 

Naturally we clearly remember the “firsts” in our lives — first gun, first car, first date, etc. I remember fondly my first experience with an antique lever gun because it started my career on a path still followed today: learning the ins and outs of safely shooting old and obsolete guns and their cartridges.

Back in the late 1970s a friend, knowing of my handloading and bullet casting experience, asked if I would load some .40-82 cartridges if he supplied brass, dies and bullet mold. His lever gun was a nice Winchester Model 1886 .40-82 manufactured in the late 1880s. It was a family heirloom but had not been fired in decades due to the lack of factory ammunition. His request sounded like an easy way to introduce myself to Winchester lever guns. The experience turned out to be more complicated, but more educational, than expected.

 

This photo shows a .40-82 in comparison to several other popular Winchester Model
1886 factory chamberings (left to right): .38-56, .40-82, .40-65, .45-70 and .45-90.

The Loads

The mold supplied was an Idea/Lyman #406169 which dropped a 0.408″ bullet weighing 260 grains of the wheel weight alloy I had on hand. I lucked out because the groove diameter of old .40-82 measured 0.408″ instead of the nominal 0.406″. Cases supplied were RCBS .45 Basic with a length of 3.25″. Those were hacksawed to just over the .40-82’s length of 2.40″ then trimmed to the final spec. Next, a now-forgotten charge of a likewise forgotten smokeless powder was dumped in 20 cases. Bullets were seated and crimped and I was ready to shoot.

Only I wasn’t! The rounds were too fat to chamber. It had not occurred to me the .45 basic case walls increased in thickness from case mouth to case rim. Thinning the case walls was the cure so RCBS tooling for the chore was acquired. Again I thought everything was a go. It wasn’t. Every shot fired gave a click-bang. The click was the hammer falling. The bang was the powder charge firing a second or so later, meaning it wasn’t igniting properly. At least the bullets passed through paper targets point on. Some research revealed an old remedy for poor powder ignition was to fill the case atop the powder charge with corn meal. The fix worked and the old rifle began to shoot beautifully. In fact we took it hunting and I shot an elk with it.

 

Duke’s Winchester Model 1886 .40-82. Note the filled sight dovetail and
new cut one a few inches ahead of it.

Collecting

As I began to assemble an array of vintage Winchesters, for my own Model 1886 slot I wanted a .40-82. What I finally landed was one made in 1887 as indicated by its serial number. However, it was not a prime specimen. Its buttstock and receiver actually were very nice and it even had a Lyman No. 21 side-mounted peep sight. The problem was the barrel. While bore condition was very good, it had been shortened from 26″ to 20″ with the magazine tube cut correspondingly. Also, someone had roughly filled the original barrel sight’s dovetail and cut another one a few inches ahead of it but left it empty. Because of those problems the price was right.

Duke had custom bullet mold maker Steve Brooks cut a set of blocks for a slightly
oversize .40-82 bullet because his Winchester’s bore was likewise oversize.

Cleaning Up

 

In my mind the idea was to restore it someday with an intact .40-82 barrel and magazine tube. In the meantime I wanted to enjoy shooting it. Times had changed a bit. I knew to slug the barrel first — it was a whopping 0.409″, so I had custom mold maker Steve Brooks (brooksmoulds.com) cut a set of blocks for a 0.410″ bullet with a gas check shank. From my favorite 1–20 tin to the lead alloy I favor, the mold dropped them a mite heavy at 280 grains. A batch of .45 Basic cases were cut and inside reamed as before.

Between my first .40-82 and the one I purchased there was a new smokeless powder introduced. The powder was Accurate 5744 and it revolutionized all my thinking about smokeless powders in voluminous cases. Because it easily ignites in large cases there is no filler necessary. To my great pleasure, 100 yard groups from my .40-82 were outstanding from the very beginning. When I pull the trigger properly, most are in the 2″ to 3″ range at 100 yards. My favored 5744 charge of 25 grains pushes those 280-gr. bullets out at about 1,390 fp. All ideas about getting a replacement barrel for my cut down ’86 were forgotten.

Other shooters might prefer more glamorous ’86 chamberings like .45-90 or .50-110. I’ve even had such but it’s the .40-82 I’ve kept.

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Media Translation Chart about guns

media narrative chart