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Category: Gear & Stuff
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The new Swiss Army Knife
Nothing beats the quality craftsmanship and smell of fresh, fine, natural leather. While Nylon and Kydex retain a uniform shape and are easy to maintain, any honest gunslinger will tell you: the look and feel just isn’t the same. Leather holsters are generally much more comfortable and quieter than synthetic holsters. A premium-quality leather holster should last a lifetime, as long as it is well-maintained.
For more than four generations, 1791 Gunleather artisans have been handcrafting fine holsters that positively and reliably hold your firearm in leather you’ll be proud to own. You may notice your holster feels stiff and tight out of the box. It may be difficult to holster or draw your handgun initially. If drawing and holstering the firearm a few times doesn’t do the trick, then you’ll need to break the holster in to find a perfected fit.
How To Break-In A Leather Holster
Use a blocking technique to stretch the leather just enough to get a smooth draw. Place your firearm in a thick plastic bag. You can use a shopping bag or a Ziploc freezer bag. Some people use two sheets of wax paper (with the waxed side toward the leather). Wedge the firearm down into the holster, and let it sit for at least 24 hours. Remove the bag and test the draw, wearing the holster as you would for your intended use, without the plastic bag.
What NOT To Do:
We do NOT recommend using a lubricant like spray silicone or Leather Lightning to grease up the inside of your holster. You don’t want a gun slippery as it may slide out of the holster unintentionally. Beyond that, you don’t want to tarnish the finish of your firearm. The interiors of our holsters are hand-finished to protect your pistol’s bluing.
Want A Leather Holster That’ll Last A Lifetime?
1791 Gunleather holsters are made to last forever. A little care can go a long way in preserving the quality.
Leather Holster Care Do’s:
- Use warm water and glycerin soap or Leather Lotion to remove impurities with a smooth finish.
- Most leather holsters should only be cleaned with soap once every three to four months.
- You may clean your holster with Bick 4 Conditioner or Fiebing’s Foaming Saddle Soap very sparingly.
- Wipe off sweat, dust, dirt, or blood with a soft towel.
- Stubborn dirt or stains can be gently scrubbed with a soft-bristled brush.
- Maintain a layer of clothing between you and the holster to minimize perspiration.
- If the leather has dampened, place the holster in a dry place to allow for natural air-drying.
- Store your leather holster in a cool, dry location, wrapped in a soft cotton cloth or in the original box.
- Minor cosmetic scratches will come off by rubbing olive, baby, or saddle oil into the scratch with a Q-tip.
- Apply rubbing alcohol in a circular motion to minimize the appearance of deeper scratches.
Leather Holster Care Don’ts:
- Do not leave your holster on the car dash or expose it to direct sunlight for extended periods of time.
- Do not store your holster in the trunk of the car, an outdoor shed, the garage, or an attic.
- Do not submerge your holster in water or any other liquid.
- Do not use mink oil, Neat’s oil, or leather conditioner, which will soften and distort the molding.
- Do not dry your holster with a hair dryer, radiator, oven, or laundry machine.
- Do not store your holster within reach of your dog who may mistake it for a rawhide chew.
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WWII US Army Basic Combat Gear
WRITTEN BY JEFF “TANK” HOOVER
A 2″ Damascus neck knife with a mammoth ivory handle. Photo: Scott A. Roush
Every writer I’ve visited seems to have plenty of “stuff” within arm’s reach of their writing quarters to be admired, picked-up, held and fondled. Perhaps this common thread of ceremonial “examinations” stimulates the mind, bursting the dam of backed-up words?
Me? My writing quarters consists of my laptop computer on the kitchen table. Next to me are stacks of notes, magazines, used targets, product printouts, along with an old Jeep console insert. Inside the compartments are numerous cartridges, cast bullets, sixgun stocks, pens, screwdrivers and calipers. My nomadic “office” is functional, easily allowing me to move it at my wife’s whims, such as clearing room for dinner.
When needing a break, I reach over and fondle something from the console, consoling me until the “damned-up” words start trickling again. Sometimes social media jump-starts flatlined brain activity. Just yesterday, while scrolling, one photo causes me to pause with its “wow” factor …
A 5″ Damascus steel blade with Sambar stag handle and wrought iron butt cap.
Photo: SharpByCoop.com
Frontier Knives, Hawks and Leather
What I see is a Damascus steel bowie with fossilized walrus handle and the most unique forged handguard I’d ever seen. Partnered with the jumbo blade is a sheath looking like its darn near 150 years old, something an old mountain man would carry with its feather, fringe and bead adornments — and who hasn’t fantasized about being a mountain man? I’ve wanted to be a mountain man since I was six.
The more I stare, the more I drool, wishing I could grab this beauty from the screen. Talk about virtual brain stimulation! I’m excited, not even holding this rustic pig-sticker. I click on the maker’s name, drawing me further into a world of recreated tomahawks, smaller skinner blades, camp blades and utility blades, all with a distinctively unique finish and flair.
These tools are worthy of a shaman’s most secret of spiritual rituals, or a sourdough’s daily duties. With this modern thing we call the Internet, I contact the maker, chuckling at the irony of using a computer for vintage looking goods.
Bear jawbone Damascus Folder with elk antler bolster and 5″ blade.
Photo: SharpByCoop.com
John Cohea
John Cohea has been making knives for 22 years. Seeing a Fisk Damascus steel blade set him on the path of making a knife looking like it was old. Through trial and error, John succeeded. He gets his Damascus blade blanks from Chad Nichols, who forges them from 1095 and 15N20 Swedish tool steel, for the most beautiful Damascus patterns you ever saw.
Using a propane gas forge, John heats and hammers the blanks into form, grinds for final shape and heat treats them for an extremely durable and sharp edge holding blade. He uses natural handle materials of bear jawbone, fossilized walrus tusk, sambar stag, elk antler or ornamental hardwoods. These blades are working pieces of art. They are made strong to be used hard!
The bolsters, and guards are made of forged wrought iron, many times using age-correct period steel, such as chain links or wagon-wheel hoops, adding to authenticity of the blade or hawk.
Warhawk! Weathered barn-oak handle with 5160 steel. Weathered oak on neck knife.
Visual Stimulation
Words are useless describing these treasures. Rather than ramble on, I’d rather have pictures do the talking of John’s work as they tell the tale better than anyone ever could.
John can be reached through Facebook and Instagram under John M Cohea Frontier Style Knives, Hawks and Leather, or simply call him at (662) 322-5916. Let him fulfill your mountain man fantasies with authentic looking/working knives, hawks and leather. His lead time is anywhere from 1–6 months. One of his knives, hawks and leather may be what I need to keep the words flowing. It couldn’t hurt.
