Month: July 2018

Say this poor thing has had a rough life?
R. F. Sedgley, Inc. - Baby Hammereless Ejector Model 1929. - Picture 1

The Baby Hammerless Revolver
by Ed Buffaloe




				Foehl & Weeks 1891 Patent

The early history of the Baby Hammerless revolver is a bit murky, but the variants of the gun are well documented. My original intent was simply to document the Kolb specimen I collected, but there is so little information about the Baby Hammerless on the internet that I thought I should at least record the various manufacturers and types, and provide what history I can find.
Foehl & Weeks
Charles G.W. Foehl engaged in the business of making firearms in Philadelphia for a number of years. He was born in the state of Würtemberg, Germany in September of 1840, and immigrated to the United States in 1859. Foehl was apprenticed to Philadelphia gunsmith John Wurfflein, and is said to have worked for Henry Deringer, Jr. before the U.S. Civil War. After the war Foehl worked for the Deringer Rifle and Pistol Works, which was owned by a great-grandson of Henry Deringer, Jr. The firm made cartridge firearms, and its First Model Deringer Revolver utilized some features from Foehl’s first firearms patent, U.S. patent #139,461. The firm also manufactured single shot rifles based on Foehl’s next two patents, which were variants of the Martini action rifle. Foehl died on 4 October 1913, at the age of 73.
In 1889 Foehl formed a company with a Philadelphia machinist, Charles A Weeks, to make guns based on Foehl’s patents. They called their company the Foehl & Weeks Firearms Manufacturing Company. In the next few years, they took out several patents together for various features of the revolvers they produced, including U.S. patents #447,219, #468,243, and #471,112. Their revolvers were mostly top-break, in .32 and .38 caliber, some with a grip safety on the front of the grip, some with a safety behind the trigger guard. They were usually marked “THE FOEHL & WEEKS F. A. MFG. CO.” Some were marked “PERFECT” on the topstrap.
Foehl & Weeks may have never actually manufactured the Baby Hammerless under their own name, since the company went bankrupt in the financial panic of 1893, and while they continued to be listed in city directories until 1896, there are no Baby Hammerless other than prototypes that can be definitively traced to this period. The two patent dates on the Baby Hammerless are February 2, 1892 and February 4, 1896. The 1892 patent applied to the Baby Hammerless Revolver was Foehl & Weeks’ patent #468,243, and the 1896 patent was Foehl’s patent #554,058. Frank Sellers, in his book Baby Hammerless Pistols, estimates that the entire production of all types of Foehl & Weeks revolvers was no more than a few thousand.
The Columbian Firearms Manufacturing Company
Columbian was probably formed in 1893, soon after the financial difficulties of Foehl & Weeks became apparent, and almost certainly named in honor of the World’s Columbian Exhibition, held in Chicago in 1893. The president of Columbian Firearms was Henry Ruhland, a Philadelphia financier who just happened to be the bankruptcy referee for Foehl & Weeks (the equivalent of a modern bankruptcy judge). Foehl managed the company, which occupied the same factory that had been previously used by Foehl & Weeks. Essentially, Ruhland and Foehl created a new legal entity which could continue producing firearms using Foehl’s patents, without being liable for Foehl & Weeks’ debts. Later, a half interest in two of Foehl’s patents (#530,759 of 1894 and #554,058 of 1896, the latter of which was on the Baby Hammerless) was assigned to Henry Ruhland. The firm manufactured top-break revolvers nearly identical to those manufactured by Foehl & Weeks. Some were marked “COLUMBIAN F. A. MFG. CO. PHILA. PA. U.S.A./ PAT. DEC. 11.1894 PAT.PDG.” Others were marked “COLUMBIAN AUTOMATIC PAT.PDG./ NEW YORK ARMS CO.”
The Baby Hammerless was probably first manufactured by Columbian, though some knowledgeable collectors maintain that all Baby Hammerless models were manufactured after Henry Kolb took over. However, there remains the fact that the early Baby Hammerless had hard rubber grips with vines or scrollwork in the upper circle, whereas Kolb’s revolvers all had a K in the circle. I can’t help but think that if Kolb had made them all, they would all display Kolb’s K. Columbian apparently went out of business in 1897 or 1898, and their guns are rather scarce.
Henry M. Kolb
Henry M. Kolb was born 16 January 1861 in the Würtemburg state of southern Germany, and was first listed in the Philadelphia city directory in 1895 as a machinist. He claimed in his ads that he founded his firearms company in 1897, which was also the last year the Columbian Firearms Company was listed in the city directory. It is known that Kolb opened a model shop in 1899 and a machinery business in 1900. There is no evidence he ever occupied the address of the old Foehl & Weeks/Columbian com- panies, nor is there any record that he purchased their machinery, though it is possible that he may have done so. Here lies the root of the question as to who made the Baby Hammerless. Other than the hard rubber grips, there are no differences between the Columbian and Kolb Baby Hammerless revolvers–they were probably made with the same equipment.
Charles Foehl was also associated with Henry Kolb–they took out several patents together after Kolb entered the firearms business, though none of them were related to the Baby Hammerless. Kolb himself took out two patents in 1910 that relate directly to the Baby Hammerless revolver. The first was #954,190, for a “firing-pin for hammers for firearms,” and the second was #954,191, for a means of mounting and locking the cylinder.
Kolb’s business, which apparetly was simply called Henry M. Kolb, became Henry M. Kolb & Company in 1910, and this change may mark the occasion of Reginald F. Sedgley becoming manager of the firm, though this is an inference with no hard data to back it up.
R. F. Sedgley, Incorporated
Reginald Sedgley was born in England on 3 September 1876 and arrived in the U.S. on 9 May 1894. He is believed to have worked in Philadelphia as a machinist as early as 1896. There is no documentation to show exactly when he worked for Kolb, but it is probable that he began working for him before 1910, several years before Charles Foehl’s death. Sedgley bought out Kolb’s business in 1916, and Kolb returned to the machine shop business by 1917. Sedgley marked his catalogues “R.F. Sedgley, Inc., Established 1897.” Having bought the company, he adopted Kolb’s founding date. While it is possible that Sedgley worked for Kolb as early as 1897, Sellers does not consider it likely.
Sedgley was granted two patents for improvements to the Baby Hammerless. The first, #1,216,001, was granted on 13 February 1917 for a new combination mainspring. The second, #1,236,608, was granted 14 August 1917 for a cylinder ejection system. He was also well known for custom gunsmith work, converting 1903 Springfields into sporting guns and sniper rifles, and for his flare gun. Sedgley died on 30 March 1938.
Variants of the Baby Hammerless Revolver
I despair of making a complete list of Baby Hammerless variations, because the sheer number of them is overwhelming and sometimes confusing. For the most complete coverage available please see Frank Sellers’ book, Baby Hammerless Revolvers. I will cover the high points here. Serial numbers for the Baby Hammerless revolvers are usually found stamped into the frame under the right grip plate.

Kolb First Model Baby Hammerless .22

Small Frame First Model: .22 caliber short, 6-shot. Birdshead grips in hard rubber: the Columbian with a vine pattern in the top circle, the Kolb with a K in the top circle. Approximately 25% had pearl grips, which were indistinguishable between makes. Nickel was the standard finish, but 10-20% were blued. There was a headspace adjustment screw on the front of frame just beneath the cylinder pin. The Cylinder pin catch was mounted in the frame. Mainspring adjustment screw on front of grip strap. Length was 4 inches overall, with a 1-5/16 inch barrel. Marked: PAT. FEB.2.92-FEB.4.96 / BABY HAMMERLESS / PATENTS PENDING. Three different hammers were installed, which can only be distinguished by disassembling the guns. Probably over 50,000 of these were produced. Duplicate serial numbers are common. Some of the late production first model small frame guns were marked NEW MODEL on the top strap and on the box–according to Frank Sellers this indicates that it had “the last type of hammer, with Kolb’s patented pivoting firing pin.” The same marking was used on the early 1910 small frame revolvers.
Large Frame Western Arms .32

Large Frame First Model: .32 caliber S&W short, 5-shot; or .22 caliber long, 8-shot. There are lots of variations. The .32 caliber guns were made with and without loading gates, and the .22 caliber were made with and without loading slots. Birdshead grips in hard rubber: the Columbian with a vine pattern in the top circle, the Kolb with a K in the top circle. The Cylinder pin catch was mounted in the frame. Nickel was the standard finish, but 10% were blued. Length was 5-1/4 inches overall, with a 1-3/4 inch barrel. Markings include: PAT. FEB.2.92-FEB.4.96 / BABY HAMMERLESS / PHILA. PA.; or PAT. FEB.2.92-FEB.4.96 / WESTERN ARMS CO. / PATENTS PENDING; or PAT. FEB.2.92-FEB.4.96 / SPECIAL / PATENTS PENDING. Total production of all types was probably about 12,500, only about 2,500 of which were in .22. The lowest production was of the .22 with no loading slot (about 500), followed by the Special and the .32 with the loading gate (about 1000 each). Those marked Western Arms were the most common, with approximately 3,000 made.
Small Frame Model 1910: .22 caliber short, 6-shot. Also known as the New Model. The frame was slightly larger than the First Model. The grip was redesigned with a larger, square butt, and the headspace adjustment screw was eliminated. The cylinder pin catch was mounted in the pin itself, rather than in the frame, and it had a larger head. The trigger was lengthened and the knob on the end was removed. Early issue guns were marked: PAT. FEB.2.92-FEB.4.96 / BABY HAMMERLESS / NEW MODEL, with PAT’s PENDING on the butt. Later guns were marked: PAT. FEB.2.92-FEB.4.96 / BABY HAMMERLESS / MODEL 1910, with PAT’s PENDING on the butt. Later still, the gun carried Kolb’s 1910 patent date: FEB.4.96–APR.5.10 / BABY HAMMERLESS / MODEL 1910. The last and most common markings eliminated the earlier patent date: PATS.APRIL 5.10 / BABY HAMMERLESS / MODEL 1910. Over 50,000 of these guns are estimated to have been made.
Large Frame Model 1910: .32 caliber S&W short, 5-shot; or .22 caliber long, 8-shot. The frame was the same size as the First Model, but the grip was enlarged and had a square butt. Various internal changes were made to the hammer and trigger design over the years of production, but I will not detail them here. The cylinder stops were redesigned. The cylinder pin catch was mounted in the pin itself, and it had a larger head. There are four different markings. The earliest guns were marked: PAT. FEB.2.92-FEB.4.96 / BABY HAMMERLESS / MODEL 1910; some have PAT’S PENDING on the butt and some do not. Later guns carried Kolb’s 1910 patent date: FEB.4.96–APR.5.10 / BABY HAMMERLESS / MODEL 1910. The next markings eliminated the earlier patent date: PATS.APRIL 5.10 / BABY HAMMERLESS / MODEL 1910. Finally, the Konqueror model, which had a two-inch barrel, was marked: PATS.APRIL 5.10 / KONQUEROR / MODEL 1910. Only about 6,000 total of the Large Frame Model 1910 guns are estimated to have been made, the Konqueror model being the most rare (100 estimated).
Small Frame “Transition” Model, first type: .22 caliber short, 6-shot. The primary distinguishing feature of the “Transition” model Baby Hammerless is the lack of a mainspring adjustment screw on the front of the gripstrap, which indicates that the new style mainspring was in use. The first type retained the cylinder pin catch that was built into the cylinder pin. The grips all had square butts. Some of these guns had the K on the hard rubber grips, and some had the S. A few of the S grips had four jewels inset, to appeal to the ladies. The earliest of these pistols (probably the first few thousand) were marked just like the previous model: PATS.APRIL 5.10 / BABY HAMMERLESS / MODEL 1910. Later they were marked: PATS.APRIL 5.10 / BABY HAMMERLESS / MODEL 1916. And later still they were marked: PAT 4.5.10-2.13.17 / BABY HAMMERLESS / MODEL 1918; or PAT 4.5.10-2.13.17 / BABY HAMMERLESS / MODEL 1920 U.S.A. The ones marked 1916 and 1920 are the most common. Approximately 3,000 were marked 1910; 20,000 were marked 1916; 2,000 were marked 1918; and 25,000 were marked 1920.
Blued 1920 Sedgley w/ Pull Release

Small Frame “Transition” Model, pull release: .22 caliber short, 6-shot. The distinguishing feature of this model was the cylinder pin pull release, eliminating the cylinder pin catch. A rare few of these guns had a threaded cylinder pin. As best I can tell, all these guns were made by Sedgley and had the hard rubber S grips or pearl grips with a square butt. The earliest of these guns were marked just like the last of the first type: PAT 4.5.10-2.13.17 / BABY HAMMERLESS / MODEL 1920 U.S.A. As the years rolled by, the markings stayed the same, but the model dates changed: 1921, 1922, and 1924. Approximately 1,000 were made with the 1920 date; 15,000 with the 1921 date; 7,000 with the 1922 date; and 1,000 with the 1924 date.
Small Frame Ejector Model: .22 caliber long, 6-shot. Sedgley had designed a cylinder with a built in ejector, which he had patented in 1917, but apparently didn’t begin installing until about 1924, possibly because it required a redesign of the frame. The cylinder didn’t swing out, but had a pull release, and considerably simplified cartridge ejection. This was the first small frame Baby Hammerless to be chambered for the .22 long cartridge. The cylinder was lengthened slightly to 7/8 inch, the frame was modified accordingly, and the barrel was shortened to keep the overall length of the gun the same. These guns were all made by Sedgley and had square butts with the S in the circle at the top of the hard rubber grips. Later models had a double loop mainspring, but were externally identical. The guns were marked with three patent dates, as follows: PATENTED / 4.5.10-2.13.17-8.14 .17 / BABY HAMMERLESS / EJECTOR MODEL / 1924 U.S.A. Later markings were identical except for the model date: 1927, 1928, 1929, 1930. Approximately 3,000 were made with the 1924 date; 7,000 with the 1927 date; 5,000 with the 1928 date; 10,000 with the 1929 date; and 2,000 with the 1930 date.
New Baby Revolvers: .22 caliber short, 6-shot. The New Baby top-break revolvers were all manufactured by Kolb, based on Foehl’s patents. They show many resemblances to the early large frame Foehl & Weeks top-break revolvers. The original top latch looks a lot like an old Smith & Wesson or Iver Johnson, but was actually based on a Foehl patent. About 90% of them were nickel plated. I haven’t been able to determine a date for the beginning of manufacture, but the last model was dated 1911, and its manufacture probably continued for several years. Since production estimates for the first three models together only total about 6,500, I suggest production began sometime between 1900 and 1905, though it certainly could have been earlier. I can’t help but see Foehl’s influence in the New Baby. Foehl was still alive during most of this gun’s production, as he didn’t die until 1913. There are four distinct “models,” though only the last has an official model designation.
- Second Model Kolb “New Baby”
  
  First Model New Baby: The first model had a cylinder retaining latch based on Foehl’s patent #530,759 of 1894. It is distinguished by a small button on the left-side forward portion of the top strap that is used to release the cylinder so it can be cleaned. The latch is sometimes called a Z-bar because of the pattern cut into it. These guns all had birdshead grips in hard rubber or pearl. The rubber grips displayed Kolb’s K in a circle. They were marked: NEW BABY / PAT.2.2.92–12.11.94–2.4.96. About 1,000 of the first model were made.
- Second Model New Baby: The second model eliminated the Z latch in favor of a simpler, cheaper solution. The top button was eliminated and the cylinder could be turned backward to remove it for cleaning. These guns had birdshead grips in hard rubber or pearl. They were also marked: NEW BABY / PAT.2.2.92–12.11.94- -2.4.96. About 5,000 of the second model were made.
- Third Model New Baby: The third model was identical to the second but it had a very sharp square butt frame profile in the area above the grips,on the top surface beneath which the hammer is hidden, whereas the earlier models had been slightly rounded, with the top surface angled downward on the edges.
  
  Kolb “New Baby” of 1911
  
  It was marked identically to the first two models. Only about 500 of the third model were made.
- Model 1911 New Baby: The Model 1911 was based on Kolb’s patent #995,156 of 1911. It was distinguished by a square butt, like the Model 1910 Baby Hammerless, and the new barrel release catch which was the subject of Kolb’s patent. The left side button was pressed to the right to release the barrel and eject the cartridges. Probably more than 90% of the Model 1911 were nickel plated, and about a third of them had pearl grips. The Model 1911 was marked: NEW BABY / MOD. 1911 PATS.4.5.10,6.18.11. This is the most common New Baby model, with an estimated production of about 20,000. Duplicate serial numbers are common.




	Kolb Baby Hammerless Revolver

The gun shown here had both grips broken. I was able to repair them with black epoxy putty, which you can easily see on the rear portion of the left side grip. The gun must have been reasonably well made, as it still functions despite its age. This one is marked with serial number 475. However, Sellers states that duplicate serial numbers are often encountered. It seems that numbers regularly ran from 1 to 999, and then started again at 1.
Someone wrote to me inquiring if these guns had rifled barrels, as his gun has only vague traces of what might have been rifling. My gun is the same way. However, Sellars states clearly: “Both sizes were rifled; the 22 caliber with five grooves and the 32 caliber with six grooves, both right hand twist.”

Author’s Note: I only own a single example of the First Model small frame, so all my descriptions and other information come from Frank Sellers’ book. I’m not an expert on these guns by any means, but I’d be happy to help you identify your model if you will provide me with some photographs I can add to this article.
Please do not ask for help with parts or repairs. I don’t sell parts, nor do I know how to repair these guns.

References
Baby Hammerless Revolvers, by Frank M. Sellers. Privately Printed: 2004.
Pistols of the World, by Ian V. Hogg & John Walter. Krause Publications, Iola, WI: 2004.
“R.F. Sedgley, Inc.,” by Pete Dickey. American Rifleman, June 1984.
Special thanks to Homer R. Ficken for researching information about Charles Foehl.

Copyright 2008-2011 by Ed Buffaloe. All rights reserved.
Click on the pictures to open a larger version in a new window.

All About Guns

A Colt 1902 Da 41 Army/Navy Revolver in caliber 41 Long Colt

Post author By Grumpy
Post date July 26, 2018
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From the hard wear shown by it. I bet this old timer has some stories to tell!

COLT - 1902 Colt DA 41 Army/Navy Revolver - Picture 1

COLT - 1902 Colt DA 41 Army/Navy Revolver - Picture 2

COLT - 1902 Colt DA 41 Army/Navy Revolver - Picture 3

COLT - 1902 Colt DA 41 Army/Navy Revolver - Picture 4

COLT - 1902 Colt DA 41 Army/Navy Revolver - Picture 5

COLT - 1902 Colt DA 41 Army/Navy Revolver - Picture 6

COLT - 1902 Colt DA 41 Army/Navy Revolver - Picture 7

COLT - 1902 Colt DA 41 Army/Navy Revolver - Picture 8

COLT - 1902 Colt DA 41 Army/Navy Revolver - Picture 9

COLT - 1902 Colt DA 41 Army/Navy Revolver - Picture 10

Dear Grumpy Advice on Teaching in Today's Classroom Well I thought it was funny!

How I use to see Thursday when they still allowed me in the Classroom!

Post author By Grumpy
Post date July 26, 2018
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Dad in the 1st scene rules in my Opinion!

Post author By Grumpy
Post date July 25, 2018
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Hard Nosed Folks Both Good & Bad The Green Machine War

A good Doggy story from Splendid Isolation

Post author By Grumpy
Post date July 25, 2018
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The Dogs of War vs. ISIS Jihadis

Dog 1, ISIS 0:

The hero Alsatian was accompanying the troops on a training exercise in the north of the country when their convoy of four vehicles came under fire from extremist militants.
One of the SAS cars was destroyed by a homemade bomb and the outnumbered forces were forced to split up and take cover.
With the ISIS fighters pinning the British troops down using two heavy mounted machine guns, an American soldier who was with the group released the snarling dog.

That’s like opening a can of whoop-ass, only furrier.

It charged at the attackers, dodging bullets before taking down one of the jihadis and ripping his neck and face.
It then turned its attention to another extremist, savaging his arms and legs in a frenzied assault.
The jihadis, who are thought to have never seen an Alsatian before, fled the scene screaming, allowing the SAS team to call in air support.

Good dog.

The team then made their way to safety with the dog, who is now being treated by the troops as a hero.

Ya think? Bravo Zulu Kilo Niner.

“A snarling Alsatian running at you is very frightening and probably not something the jihadis had encountered.
“The dog did its job and returned to its handler worth its tail wagging.”

This made me laugh out loud. I can just imagine what the dog was thinking in his doggie brain. Didja see what I did? Didja? Didja? Can I do it again? At least, that’s what Wolfgang would be thinking.

This moment of awesome is brought to you by a heads up from the Queen Of The World, who knows a thing or two about German Shepherds.

Fieldcraft War

Well you do now know about Medieval stairs!

Post author By Grumpy
Post date July 25, 2018
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Inline image 1

All About Guns Anti Civil Rights ideas & "Friends" Well I thought it was funny!

I am afraid so !

All About Guns

Something for you AR-15 guys who want to improve their score!

Post author By Grumpy
Post date July 25, 2018
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Home Brands AR-15 AR-308 AK-47 Red Dots Scopes

You have had your AR-15 for a while and it has become your favorite gun to shoot at the range. But for some reason, you just can’t achieve the accuracy you anticipated when you’re shooting it. You have practiced with the gun, but just can’t put together the groups that you want. Or maybe you are trying to shoot long distance, and that AR that worked great at 100 yards doesn’t perform as well at 300 yards or beyond. Before you start thinking about replacing your rifle with something more expensive or switching to a different platform for long range, think about doing some upgrades.
Before we talk hardware, any experienced shooter will tell you that accuracy is more than a sum of the parts in a gun. It is about the ability to put a bullet on its intended target, consistently, with every shot you take. Yes, the gun and ammo need to perform reliably, but more importantly, you — the shooter — need to be consistent with every shot. Even the most budget-friendly AR-15 can outperform a novice shooter who is not using proper form and has no mastery of shooting fundamentals. So before forking over your hard-earned money for upgrades with the hope that you can spend your way to better accuracy, first and foremost, build a foundation of skills that enable you to shoot consistently. Learn proper form in multiple shooting positions, learn how to properly hand support or bench/bipod rest your firearm when you shoot, learn how your breathing affects accuracy and get the body mechanics under your control. As you build this foundation, you can start to look at the top components that will help you further achieve greater consistency, and you will see your accuracy improve significantly.
What are the Best Upgrades to your AR-15 to Improve Accuracy?
When looking to improve your accuracy, these are the top 5 components that rise to the top of the list.

Optics
Triggers
Ammunition
Free-Float Handguards
Barrels

Honorable mentions go to stocks and muzzle devices which will also be covered.
Optics

The single most important addition or upgrade to a rifle is a quality optic. If you are shooting with the equivalent of iron sights on your AR-15, with practice you will be able to achieve relatively good accuracy at short ranges, but you’ll see your effectiveness tapering off after a couple hundred yards. Especially if you have less than 20/20 vision, your ability to actually see the target at long distances will be your greatest limitation. The answer is a quality optic.
All optics, however, are not created equal. If you have a top quality AR-15 rifle that cost you $1,500 or more and you equip it with a $50 optic that you purchased at a gun show, you are setting yourself up to fail in regards to achieving accuracy. When it comes to riflescopes, you’re going to have to pay for quality — corners cannot be cut on the way to a good optic. However not everyone needs a supremely powerful and costly optic, it depends on what you want to get out of your rifle.
The AR-15 is the most popular rifle in America because it’s versatile and people put them to use in all sorts of applications. From target shooting just for fun, to competition, small game hunting and self-defense. Your optic choices are just as varied as the potential uses of your rifle, and there is an option for nearly any scenario you can imagine. Do you need a red dot sight, a fixed magnification prism scope, or a variable magnification scope? Each option has Pros and Cons to consider depending on your intended use for the rifle, so let’s take a look.
Red Dots
Red dot style sights are very popular for AR-15s. They are unmagnified, acquire targets quickly, and allow the shooter to keep both eyes open for full use of peripheral vision and better situational awareness. A properly zeroed red dot provides the shooter with a consistent point of aim, and they excel at ranges from 0-100 yards for most shooters. But they are not for everyone. Shooters with an astigmatism may be unable to see a crisp dot, making exceptional accuracy almost impossible. Instead these shooters see things that have been described as a “smudge,” “comma,” or “comet”. If a red dot sight looks a little undefined to your eye when you look through it, chances are you have an astigmatism and you may want to consider another option. Let’s break it down with the Pros and Cons.

Pros

Rapid target acquisition
Consistent aiming point with a bright dot
Easy to use and master
Excellent for ranges from 0-100 yards
Cost effective optic solution
Lightweight
Can be paired with an optional magnifier to increase range

Cons

Shooters with an astigmatism may not see a crisp red dot
If eyesight has difficulty at distance, effective range is limited
No magnification
Offset issues are greatest at shorter ranges

Prism Scopes
Prism scopes are fixed magnification optics with a reticle etched onto the interior glass instead of projected onto a lens like a red dot sight. Prisms typically range from 1x to 6x and are ideal for the AR platform. 1x magnification prisms are comparable to red dots in features and intended usage. Without magnification, they perform in the same role, yet have advantages for shooters with eye issues as the etched reticle is easy to see without distortion. For those with trouble seeing long distances, or for those who want to shoot out to even longer ranges, 1.5x to 6x fixed magnification prism scopes provide an excellent option to give your AR some distance potential. You can choose from many advanced reticle designs too, like the Primary Arms ACSS CQB, which can be incredibly versatile and take the guesswork out of longer-range ballistics.

Pros

Magnification extends accuracy at longer ranges
Greater precision with etched reticle
Etched reticle still works if battery fails
Variety of reticles available to customize your shooting experience
Robust and durable
Many affordable quality options available

Cons

Fixed magnification limits flexibility
Light transmission limitations effect image quality
Bulkier and longer than red dot sights

Variable Power Scopes
A variable power scope allows you to manually adjust the magnification, providing greater flexibility for your shooting experience. Very popular with hunters, competitors, and recreational shooters that shoot at multiple ranges, the adjustable magnification lets you tailor your scope to the shot you want to take. That flexibility comes at a cost though, as added weight can cause some scopes to feel cumbersome on the lightweight frame of an AR rifle.
There are two types of variable power scopes to choose from: First Focal Plane (FFP) and Second Focal Plane (SFP). With an FFP scope, the reticle visually grows and shrinks as you change your magnification setting. This ensures that your zero and bullet drop compensation marks that are etched into the reticle remain accurate at any magnification. An SFP scope’s reticle remains the same size as the magnification changes, resulting in a consistent sight picture. However, any bullet drop compensation marks will only be accurate at the maximum power setting. Do your research to choose which type is best for your specific shooting requirements.

Pros

Range of magnification provides maximum flexibility
Variable magnification allows for simpler reticles
Better light transmission improves image quality
High magnification allows for precise windage and elevation adjustments at longer ranges

Cons

Typically more expensive than prism scopes
Heavier and bulkier than prism scopes
Must buy additional hardware to mount the scope to your rifle
Lower quality scopes may not hold zero well as you adjust for windage and elevation

A note on glass quality: This is something that varies widely among manufacturers. The simple truth is, the better quality the glass, the sharper your image will be as you view through the scope. Research what other people have to say regarding the glass quality of a scope before you purchase.
Triggers

Most AR-15s come out of the factory with a MIL-SPEC-style standard trigger. These triggers are machined to meet military standards and require an average of 4.5 – 5.5 pounds of pressure to fire the gun. The MIL-SPEC trigger is not fancy, but it is reliable and relatively inexpensive to mass produce. The typical stock trigger on a new AR-15 does not have a consistent “break” point — or the point during the trigger-pull at which the hammer is released. They don’t often have consistent pull weights either. The reason for this is that there are many contact surfaces within a trigger group that cause varying degrees of friction. In addition to trigger pull weight, other factors such as length of pull, trigger reset, take up (or “slack”), over travel, production quality and trigger shape all contribute to the overall shooting experience and performance of the trigger.
For many shooters, all these variables combine to produce an inconsistent shooting experience with a MIL-SPEC trigger. If you are shooting for precision and accuracy, you rely on your trigger to perform the same way each time you pull it. The standard AR trigger just doesn’t deliver that consistency. The remedy is a trigger upgrade. After you shoot an AR that is equipped with a quality trigger upgrade, chances are that you will not want to go back to the MIL-SPEC trigger ever again. It really is that much better.
A good AR trigger gives the shooter precise mechanical control over the fire control group. Precision machined components, tighter tolerances, better springs and even different shapes all combine to create a predictable trigger that “breaks” cleanly and consistently. This is more important than pull weight for accuracy, but can be further enhanced by a lighter pull. WARNING: Not all trigger pull weights are suitable for all purposes! If triggers are set to a pull weight that is too light, the probability of a negligent discharge increases dramatically. Most multi-purpose trigger upgrades are between 3.5 and 4.5 pounds in pull weight for safety. In addition, many companies sell a “drop-in” trigger which is a pre-assembled fire control group in a convenient housing that makes installation easy.
AR trigger upgrades come in two varieties: single-stage and two-stage. Which style you choose is really driven by preference, so let’s examine the Pros and Cons of each one.
Single-Stage Triggers
Since you already have an AR, you are familiar with a single stage trigger. In one motion, you pull the trigger until it “breaks.” It is simple and standard on most firearms. Match-grade single stage trigger upgrades make the break as consistent as possible, and the shooter exerts the same level of effort the entire time to pull through the “break.”

Pros

Familiar mechanics for shooters that are accustomed to a MIL-SPEC trigger
Single motion with consistent force applied
Crisp “break”
Shorter reset and less trigger motion

Cons

Not as predictable

Two-Stage Triggers
A two-stage trigger splits the force required to pull the trigger into two different operations, the “take up” and the “break”. Using a Geissele SSA trigger as an example, the overall pull weight is 4.5 pounds. The shooter applies 2.5 pounds of pressure through the first stage and then hits a clearly identifiable “wall”. At that point, and additional 2 pounds of pressure is all that is required to break the trigger in the second stage. After the first shot, the user only needs to reset the trigger to the 2-pound second stage for a follow-up shot.

Pros

Creates a predictable “break” point for the trigger
Second stage provides a light pull weight for precision shooting, while first stage retains safety of a 4+ pound trigger

Cons

May require some practice to familiarize yourself with the mechanism
Can induce finger fatigue if holding the first stage for extended periods as you wait for the perfect shot

Ammunition

Ammunition for your AR-15 comes in varying types and grades. What you feed your rifle has a huge impact on accuracy. Cheap steel case ammo is a very popular choice for plinking at short distances on the range, but it is not known for being able to shoot a consistent, tight group. Mass produced brass ammunition from large companies improve upon accuracy and reliability, but these cartridges are designed for combat effectiveness where larger groups are acceptable. You will notice a significant improvement in accuracy and consistency if you shoot with precision match ammunition.
Quality and consistency versus quantity. That is the major differentiator with match-grade ammo. If you are shooting your AR at 300+ yards, you do not need the quantity. Precision and consistency are what you’re after. You need the quality of a match round that uses a specific bullet weight and powder combination to attain those small groups at long distances. Yes, you will pay more for match ammo, but it will enable closer groups with far less effort and luck.
A Note on .223 Remington and 5.56×45: .223 Remington ammo may be safely shot in a barrel chambered for 5.56×45. There may be a slight decrease in accuracy as the rifling on a 5.56×45 barrel is designed for a higher-pressure round. It is, however, UNSAFE to fire a 5.56×45 round in a barrel chambered for .223 Remington. The barrel may not withstand the additional pressure of the military-grade round. A .223 Wylde barrel will safely fire both rounds. The .223 Wylde chamber is tighter, more consistent and more accurate.

Pros

Match ammo remains consistent from shot to shot
Match ammo has better, more reliable primers and powder ignition efficiency

Cons

Match ammo is significantly more expensive than standard range or military surplus ammo

Free Float Handguards

Many budget-friendly AR-15s come in a configuration that has an A2 front sight post / gas block, with a polymer handguard fit between the front sight and the upper receiver. On a typical carbine-length gas system, your handguard covers around seven inches of the 16-inch barrel. This short length restricts your options for supporting techniques and accessories that can greatly improve stability. Furthermore, a standard handguard has multiple points where pressure is exerted on the barrel, which can interfere with ideal barrel harmonics and impact accuracy. The solution is a free float handguard.
A free float handguard reduces pressure points on the barrel and allows for lengths up to 15 inches on a 16-inch barrel. All that extra real estate, combined with a picatinny rail, Keymod, or M-LOK system for attaching accessories can provide numerous additional options to stabilize your rifle and improve your accuracy. For many shooters, the ability to move your support hand out towards the end of the rifle provides a major improvement in shooting stability. Attaching a bipod can create a platform suitable for precision shooting. Even attaching foregrips and forward sling points can increase stability while standing. Your rifle is going to look way cooler too.
This upgrade involves some additional modifications, so you need to make sure you’re prepared. You will need to remove your delta ring, possibly your barrel nut, and the A2 front sight (if you have one), replacing it with a low-profile gas block. Research the best methods on how to do the modifications to ensure that your rifle and gas system will function reliably after the upgrade. Since you need to go through all of the same steps to swap out your barrel, lets look at that next.
Barrels

Most of the items listed above are upgrades that help you be a more accurate with an AR-15. The barrel, on the other hand, is the heart of your AR-15’s accuracy. Essentially, the barrel is the most important part of your rifle. Accuracy doesn’t end with the barrel, but it most certainly begins with it. There is a saying: “you can’t build a good gun around a bad barrel.” So why is it not in the number one position on this list? Most ARs will ship with barrels that are accurate enough for the recreational or new shooter. Mastering the other elements of shooting fundamentals will give you the greatest improvements in accuracy. In most cases, an upgraded barrel will take those vast improvements in your accuracy and fine tune them into precision shooting at longer distances. Here are the things to consider when upgrading a barrel.
Material and Production
There are some myths out there that need to be dispelled regarding barrels. The first is, many shooters believe that the best barrels for accuracy need to be Hammer Forged, Chrome-lined, Heavy Barrels. This is simply not the case. These materials and production techniques have little to do with accuracy. They have everything to do with durability and reliability during sustained automatic fire. For most civilian shooters of semi-automatic AR-15s, their typical usage does not require these materials. The most popular material for precision barrels today is 416 and 416R steel. Quality precision barrels made with this steel can turn your AR into a tack driver. As for barrel profile and width, since precision shooters typically do not shoot at a high rate of fire, a variety of thicknesses and fluting techniques can be combined to craft some fine match-grade barrels.
Length
Another myth is that longer barrels are required for accuracy. A poorly-made 24-inch barrel can easily lose in accuracy to a well-made barrel that is 10 inches shorter. When good quality precision barrels are used, barrel length becomes more important as the distance of the shot being taken increases. The longer the barrel, the faster the velocity of the round. If you are shooting at 100 yards, a 16-inch barrel is ideal. If you want to be more accurate at ranges beyond 300 yards, 18, 20 and 24-inch barrels will propel the bullet faster and flatter. Match your barrel to your anticipated shooting distance.
Gas Tube Length
Your gas system operates your AR-15. Gas from the explosion is directed through a hole in the top of the barrel into the gas block. From there it travels down the gas tube into the receiver where it pushes back the Bolt Carrier Group (BCG). The closer to the chamber the gas block is situated on the barrel, the higher the pressure of the gas that pushes back on the BCG. A pistol length gas tube – the shortest configuration — increases the felt recoil of the gun. This, as a result, influences accuracy – especially on follow-up shots. From pistol-length gas systems we move to longer lengths which are carbine, mid-length and rifle-length. Longer gas tube lengths result in a shooting experience that is smoother and has less recoil. Most precision rifles have longer tubes for this reason.
Twist Rate
Few things confuse new AR-15 shooters like twist rate. 1:7, 1:8, 1:12 – what does it really mean? Twist rate describes the rotation – or spin — of a bullet as it travels down the barrel. The first number in the twist rate ratio represents one full rotation of the bullet as it travels down the barrel. The second number represents the number of inches the bullet will travel down the barrel to complete that one rotation.

So, as an example, a 1:7 twist rate means that there will be one rotation for every 7 inches of travel the bullet completes down the rifled barrel. Heavier bullets require more spin to achieve a stable flight trajectory and be accurate at long distances. Lighter bullets can suffer from over-stabilization and become less accurate if they spin more. Therefore, it is critical to match your choice of ammunition to barrel twist rate if you want accuracy. The chart below provides the ideal twist rate for different weights of bullets. If you want the most versatile twist rate available, go for something in the middle like 1:8 or 1:9.

Bonus Section – This list was compiled based upon the input from several of the firearms experts at Primary Arms. Not everyone agreed on what parts improve a shooter’s accuracy. There are two parts that contribute significantly to accuracy, but didn’t make the cut for the top 5 list: the butt stock and a good, recoil-mitigating muzzle device. Not only do these two parts help you shoot better but they can also make your shooting experience better and much more enjoyable.
Stocks

More than any other component on the rifle, what stock you choose is a matter of personal preference. Ultimately, you want a stock that provides a solid cheek weld to help you stabilize the rifle as you shoot. Depending on your shooting requirements, comfort level, and desired awesomeness, there are numerous options. Fixed length, collapsible and even PDW style stocks. Choose the one that works best for you. As you get into more precision shooting using more powerful optics, eye relief to your scope becomes a major consideration. For precision long-range shooting with powerful optics, many shooters opt for an adjustable precision stock like the Magpul Precision Rifle Stock (PRS), Luth-AR Modular Buttstock Assembly or the Seekins Precision ProComp 10X.
Muzzle Devices that Mitigates Recoil

When a bullet exits the barrel, it is followed by a cloud of expanding gas that pushes back against the rifle. This can contribute greatly to felt recoil. Most budget AR-15s ship with the equivalent of the A2 “birdcage” flash hider. This muzzle device was designed to mitigate the effects of the muzzle flash on a shooter’s night vision in low light engagements. It doesn’t do much to impact recoil. What you need is a muzzle break, or compensator. A muzzle break is designed so that the expanding gasses are redirected and harnessed to act in opposition to the natural force of recoil caused by firing a bullet. A good muzzle device can dramatically reduce recoil, improving your shooting experience and make it easier to get back on target for follow-up shots. Our staff favorite muzzle breaks are the LANTAC Dragon, Seekins Precision ATC, and the JP Enterprises Barrel Tactical Compensator.
Conclusion
All the parts discussed have the potential to improve your accuracy, but that will only occur if you continue to build your shooting fundamentals, increase your knowledge of firearms and ballistics, and practice regularly. Accuracy is about consistency, but that consistency will never be realized unless you practice. The bottom line is this: upgrading your rifle and customizing it to be unique to you is fun. And it can help you shoot better. So, build your foundation of skills, understand your options, install some parts and go shoot.

Well I thought it was funny!

Dianne Feinstein just crapped her Granny Panties !

Post author By Grumpy
Post date July 25, 2018
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Fire, Memes, and News: WHAT IT'S LIKE TO FIRE AR-15 NY DAILY NEWS JOURNALIST HORRIFYING DANGEROUS VERY VERY LOUD BRUISED HIS SHOULDER DISORIENTED HIM AMMO SMELL MADE HIM SICK GAVE HIM PTSD TURNING USA TPUSA com 7 YEAR OLD GIRL PRETTY GOOD THAT WAS PRETTY GOOD WONDER WHATIT FEELS LIKE TO BE THAT MUCH OF A WUSS
As you can guess I am not a huge fan of my hopefully soon EX Senator from California!