Categories
All About Guns

Some more hickok45 Videos – The Colt SAA Vintage 1907

Categories
Well I thought it was funny!

I miss mine but Mom took them away after the "Family Cat incident"

Categories
All About Guns Art

Gun Picture Dump

 

Categories
Allies

If you want a real & true Friend then get a Dog! Bess Truman

Categories
Uncategorized

How to Ford a River or Stream

Brett and Kate McKay | May 5, 2017

Manly SkillsOutdoorsSurvival

How to Ford a River or Stream

vintage men swimming across river training exercise

Editor’s note: The following excerpt was taken from FM 21-76: Survival Evasion and Escape, an Army field manual published in 1968.

Crossing Water

General

(1) Unless you are traveling in the desert, there is a good possibility that you will have to ford a stream or river. The water obstacle may range from a small, ankle-deep brook that flows down a side valley to a rushing, snow- or ice-fed river. If you know how to cross such an obstacle, you can use the roughest of waters to your advantage. However, before you enter the water check the temperature. If it is extremely cold and if a shallow fording place cannot be found, it is not advisable to try to cross by fording. The cold water may easily cause a severe shock, which can temporarily paralyze you. In this case, try to make an improvised bridge by felling a tree over the stream or build a simple raft.
(2) Before you attempt to ford, move to high ground and examine the river for:
(a) Level stretches where it breaks into a number of channels.
(b) Obstacles on the other side that might hinder your travel. Pick a spot on the opposite bank where travel will be easier and safer.
(c)  A ledge of rocks that crosses the river, indicating the presence of rapids or canyons.
(d) Any heavy timber growths. These indicate where the channel is deepest.
(3) When you select your fording site, keep the following points in mind:
(a) When possible, choose a course leading across the current at about a 45° angle downstream.
(b) Never try to ford a stream directly above or close to a deep or rapid waterfall or deep channel.
(c) Always ford where you would be carried to a shallow bank or sandbar should you lose your footing.
(d) Avoid rocky places, since a fall can cause serious injury; however, an occasional rock that breaks the current may help you.

Methods of Crossing

(1) Wading
Before you enter the water remove your shoes and socks unless you need them to protect your feet from being cut by sharp rocks or sticks.  Use a stout pole for support.  It makes your footing more secure.  Also use the pole to test the stream for potholes.
(2) Swimming
(a) Use the breast, back, or side strokes. They are noiseless, less exhausting than other techniques, and will allow you to carry small bundles of clothing and equipment as you swim. If possible, remove your clothing and equipment and float it across the river. Wade out until the water is chest deep before you begin swimming. If the water is too deep to wade, jump in feet first with your body straight; keep your legs together and your hands at your sides. In deep, swift water, swim diagonally across the stream with the current.
(b) If you are unable to swim, you can ford a river by using certain swimming aids. These include:
1. Clothing. Take off your trousers in the water; knot each leg and button the fly. Grasp the waist band on one side and swing the trousers over your head from back to front so that the waist opening is brought hard down on the surface of the water. Air is trapped in each leg (fig. 16). If you are not worried about noise, hold your trousers in front of you and jump into the water (fig. 15). Either of these methods provides a serviceable pair of water wings.
vintage illustration using pants as flotation device in water
vintage survival illustration using pants as flotation device
2. Empty tins, gas cans, and boxes. Lash these together as shown in figures 17, 18, and 19. Use them only when crossing slow moving water.
vintage survival illustration using gas cans as flotation device
vintage survival illustration using boxes as flotation device
vintage survival illustration using a crate as a flotation device
3. Logs or planks. Before you decide to use a wooden floating aid, test its ability to float. This is especially important in the tropics because most tropical trees sink, particularly the palm, even when the wood is dead.
(3) Rafts
(a) Rafting rivers is one of the oldest forms of travel and often is the safest and quickest method of crossing a water obstacle; however, building a raft under survival conditions is tiring and time consuming unless you have proper equipment and help. With these two requirements you can make rafts from dry standing trees, bamboo, or brush.
(b) Spruce trees that are found in polar and subpolar regions make the best rafts. You can construct a raft without spikes or rope. All you need is an axe and knife. Considering a suitable raft for three men to be 12 feet long and 6 feet wide:
1. Build the raft on two skid logs placed so they slope downward to the bank. Smooth the logs with an axe so the raft logs lie evenly on them.
2. Cut four offset, inverted notches, one in the top and bottom of both ends of each log (fig 20). Make the notches broader at the base than at the outer edge of the log.
vintage survival illustration constructing log raft
3. To bind the raft together, drive through each notch a three-sided, wooden crosspiece about a foot longer than the width of the raft (fig 20). Connect all the notches on one side of the raft before connecting those on the other.
4. Lash the overhanging ends of the two crosspieces together at each end of the raft to give it additional strength. When the raft enters the water the crosspieces swell and bind the logs together tightly.
5. If the crosspieces fit too loosely, wedge them with thin pieces of dried wood. These swell when wet, tightening and strengthening the crosspieces.
(c) Bamboo is light, tough, and cuts easily. It makes a serviceable craft.
(d) With a tarpaulin, shelter half, or other waterproof material, you can build an excellent raft using brush as a frame.
(e) In Northern Europe, during the winter, rivers may be open in the middle part because of the swift current, and the frozen shores. Cross such a river on an ice block raft which can be cut off from the frozen shore ice, using an ax or even sometimes a pole (if there is a crack in the ice). The size of the raft should be about 2 x 3 yards and the ice should be at least one foot thick. A pole is used to move the ice block raft  across the open part of the river (fig. 21).
vintage survival illustration ice block raft

Rapids or Swift Water

(1) Swimming in rapids or swift water is not as great a problem as you think. In shallow rapids, get on your back with your feet pointing downstream; keep your body horizontal and your hands alongside your hips. Flap your hands much like a seal moves his flippers. In deep rapids, swim on your stomach and aim for shore when possible. Watch for currents that converge; you might be sucked under because of the swirls they produce.
(2) A raft crossing of a deep and swift river may be effected by utilizing a pendulum action at a bend in the river (fig. 22). This method is useful when several men have to cross.
vintage survival illustration crossing a river on a log raft

Quicksand, Bogs, Quagmire

These obstacles are found most frequently in tropical or semitropical swamps. Pools of muck are devoid of any visible vegetation and usually will not support even the weight of a rock. If you cannot detour such an obstacle, attempt to bridge it using logs, branches, or foliage. If none are available, cross it by falling face downward with your arms spread. Start swimming or pulling your way through, keeping your body horizontal. Use the same method for crossing quicksand (fig. 23).
vintage survival illustration crossing wading through quicksand

Last updated: July 5, 2017

Categories
N.S.F.W. Well I thought it was funny!

What a Little Stud! NSFW

Attachments area
Categories
N.S.F.W.

How come I never see these ladies at the Range? NSFW

Image result for michelle manhart playboy spread
Related image
Related image
Related image
Related image
Image result for hot girl with glock
Image result for hot girl with ar15
 
Image result for Gun
Blond Topless Girl
Blond Topless
 
 

Categories
All About Guns

S&W Model 17

Image result for S&W Model 17

Image result for S&W Model 17

Smith & Wesson Model 17

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Smith & Wesson Model 17
Flickr - ~Steve Z~ - Smith ^ Wesson K22 Pre 17.jpg

Smith & Wesson Model 17 K-22 revolver
Type Double-action revolver
Place of origin United States
Production history
Designed 1947
Manufacturer Smith & Wesson
Variants Model 617
Specifications
Barrel length 6 in (150 mm)

Cartridge .22 Long Rifle
Action Double-action revolver
Feed system 6 round (Model 17 or earlier 617), or 10 round (Later model 617) cylinder

The Smith & Wesson Model 17 is a six-shot double-actionrevolver chambered for .22 LR. It is built on Smith & Wesson‘s medium-sized K-frame.

History[edit]

Smith & Wesson’s Models 16 and 17 have their origins with the company’s Pre-World War 2 Hand Ejector series in the 1930s. These two revolver models debuted as companion pieces known as the Models K-32 and K-22 after World War 2. The K-32 Masterpiece (Model 16) debuted in 1935 and was chambered in .32 S&W Long caliber. Production ceased during World War 2 and the revolver was reintroduced in 1947 along with the K-22 Masterpiece (Model 17) in .22 Long Rifle caliber.[1]
The Model 16 was dropped from production in 1983 due to the declining popularity of the .32 S&W Long caliber and the Model 17 was discontinued in 1998 as the company focused less on blued steel revolvers at the time.[1]

Design[edit]

The Model 17 has an adjustable rear sight and an un-pinned, fixed ramp or Patridge style front sight. It was designed as a target revolver and could be ordered from S&W with “The Three T’s” : Target Trigger, Target Hammer and Target Grips. Standard barrel lengths were 4″, 6″ and 8 3/8″. The 4″ model 17-6 is infrequently seen, as S&W produced the almost identical, 4″ barrelled, Model 18. The Model 18 was a Model 17 copy- except the 4″ barrel was tapered where the Model 17 4″ barrel was not. Many collectors believe the Model 17-6 with the 4″ non-tapered barrel was a bit of a production oddity, most probably put together from 6″ and 8 3/8″ barrels that were cut down to 4″ at the factory.[2]
In 1990, S&W also shipped the Model 17 featuring a 4″, 6″ or 8 3/8″ full under lug barrel. The “under lug” was a solid, blued steel, circular rod, cast as part of the barrel, and running under the barrel from the front of the cylinder yoke to the muzzle’s end.. The under lug not only enclosed the ejector rod, it also added considerable weight to the gun itself. The under lug model shipped with a special round butt wood grip that featured inletted finger grooves. The 4″ Model 17 Under Lug is infrequently seen and quite possibly manufactured as an afterthought using factory shortened 6″ or 8 3/8″ under lug barrels.

Derivatives[edit]

Model 18 & 617[edit]

The Smith & Wesson Model 18 (or the 22 Combat Masterpiece) was built on S&W’s “K” Frame, (Smith & Wesson’s designation for ‘medium frame’ firearms.) It was a tapered, 4-inch-barreled, double-action revolver, with adjustable open sights, chambered for the .22 long rifle Many believe the Model 18 was designed as a training weapon for law enforcement officials and others who primarily carried Model 10’s, 15’s and 19’s-.38 Special and .357 caliber revolvers. The Model 18 (like the Model 17) operates and handles in a similar fashion to these law enforcement models of the day; and closely shares the size, weight, grips, internal mechanism, and operation of several popular “K” framed revolvers like the Model 10 (.38 Cal.), Model 13 (.38 & .357 Cal.), Model 14 (.38 Cal.), Model 15 (.38 Cal.) and Model 19 (.38 & .357 Cal.) The only significant difference was the Model 18’s .22 caliber.
Model 617 – At the same time S&W introduced the Model 17 full Under Lug, (discontinued in 1998) they also began production of the .22 caliber Model 617. This is the stainless steel version of the blued steel Model 17 .22 LR, however all Model 617’s have full, Under Lug barrels. Offered in the same three barrel lengths as the Model 17, the 617 is still in current production and is shipped with rubber grips. The Model 617 is found with a six-shot or ten-shot, steel .22 LR cylinder. The only exception is the early production Model 617-2 which was made with a ten-shot, aluminium alloy .22 LR cylinder. Later “dash 2” 617’s were shipped with stainless steel cylinders.[3]

Model 53[edit]

Photograph of Model 53 with cylinder inserts.Model 53 in .22 Jet with cylinder inserts to use .22 Rimfire
The Smith & Wesson Model 53 was introduced in 1961 in the .22 Jet caliber. It is a revolver of six round capacity built on the small K frame using a double action trigger. The .22 Jet cartridge had a listed velocity of 2460 fps using a 40 grain bullet, but actually reached 1700-1800 this in the revolver.[4] The Model 53 can also fire the .22 Short, Long, and Long rifle cartridges using chamber inserts. The hammer had a two position firing pin to allow it to be switched from rimfire to centerfire as needed.
The handgun came with target handgrips and sights an in barrel lengths of 4, 6 and 8.3 inches.[5]
In the late 1950s there was considerable interest in the shooting community for revolvers chambered in various .22 caliber wildcat cartridges. Smith & Wesson sought to take advantage of this by unveiling a cartridge known as the .22 Remington CFM (Centerfire Magnum) cartridge or the .22 Remington Jet and chambered a version of the Model 17 in this caliber designating it the Model 53.[6]
The Model 53 was manufactured from 1960 to 1974.[6]

Problems in Use[edit]

Due to the tapered design of the .22 Jet cartridge there were problem with case setback. It was advised that the cylinders and cartridges be kept absolutely dry to prevent this. Note: lubricating cartridges results in a pressure increase. Cartridges should always be dry. https://www.americanrifleman.org/articles/2010/6/28/smith-wesson-model-53/

Present State[edit]

The Model 17 was discontinued in 1998, but in 2009 was reintroduced as the Model 17 “Masterpiece” due to a resurgence in the popularity of vintage Smith & Wesson revolvers. The company chose approx. fifteen previously discontinued models to produce once again. This was done under the “Classics” category of S&W’s current offerings

S&W’s New Model 17 Classic

by Joel J Hutchcroft   |  September 23rd, 20100 Comments

Pinned Front Sight, Target Hammer, Key Lock, Cylinder Latch
Thumbpiece, Laminated Grips, Smooth Trigger, Recessed Muzzle Crown.

 
If you’re like me, you probably have at least one gun that just feels like it’s a part of you. It might be your 1911 that feels like a natural extension of your arm when you raise it and aim at the target.
Or maybe it’s a .22 rimfire rifle that you shot so much while you were growing up that now it just seems to effortlessly point exactly where it needs to and you simply can’t miss each and every time you squeeze off a round.
Or maybe it’s a shotgun that comes to your shoulder and moves to your focus point so easily that you don’t even realize you’re mounting it.
I feel attached to a lot of my guns, but if I had to pick the one that just feels right to me every time I handle and shoot it, I wouldn’t have to think long or hard. I’d pick my old Smith & Wesson Model 17.
Some of you know what I’m talking about, but for those who haven’t experienced this fantastic revolver, after about a 10-year hiatus in production, S&W brought back the traditional six-shot, bright-blue, non-lug-barreled Model 17 last year as part of its Classics line, and now you can experience it firsthand.
Shooting Times has a long and well-established history with the Model 17, also known as the K-22 Masterpiece. ST writers the likes of Skeeter Skelton, Bob Milek, Dick Metcalf, and Mike Venturino have written about the classic K-Frame .22, detailing just about every significant mechanical change and many of the less significant configuration changes that were made to the Model 17 and its stainless-steel brother, the Model 617.
So, since we are celebrating our 50th anniversary, it is fitting to report on this newest version.
The new model is called the Model 17 Masterpiece Classic, and it is stamped “17-9″ inside the cylinder yoke. My old Model 17 is stamped “17-4,” and it was produced in 1980. It was my first brand-new store-bought handgun, and I’ve been shooting it for 30 years.
It’s one gun that has never been sold off or traded, and I can’t see myself ever parting with it. But let’s get back to the new one.
The new Model 17 carries on the tradition of S&W’s medium-frame, square-butt, double-action revolvers, but it has a few differences. For one, the square-butt, service-style stocks are laminated wood instead of walnut.
For another, the new barrel’s muzzle has a recessed crown, whereas my old one doesn’t. And the new barrel itself is slightly larger, measuring .611 inch in diameter at the muzzle, while my 17-4’s barrel is .590 inch at the muzzle.
Also, the leaf of the Micro adjustable rear sight of the new gun is rounded and entirely recessed into the topstrap; my old 17-4’s Micro adjustable rear sight leaf is squared off and the end is not encased by the topstrap. The rear sight blades on both models are plain black.
My old 17-4 has a pinned barrel, whereas the new one’s 6-inch barrel is compression fitted. The top rib on the new barrel measures .240 inch wide, and the one on my old 17-4 is wider, measuring .425 at the frame and slightly tapering down to .333 right in front of the front sight.
 

Specifications:

Model: Model 17 Classic
Manufacturer: Smith & Wesson | 800.331.0852
Type: Double-action revolver
Caliber: .22 Long Rifle
Cylinder capacity: 6 rounds
Barrel: 6 in.; rifling : 6 grooves, 1:15 RH twist
Overall length: 11.25 in.
Width: 1.45 in.
Height: 5.4 in.
Weight, empty: 40 oz.
Grips: Checkered laminated wood, square-butt, service-style
Finish: Bright blue
Sights: Micro adjustable rear; primed Patridge front
Trigger: 4-lb., 6-oz. pull (single action, as tested)
Price: $1,051

My 17-4 came with a target-style hammer,
as does the new model, but my old gun has a serrated, .495-inch-wide target trigger, whereas the new model has a smooth, narrow, .312-inch-wide trigger. Both models have a Patridge-style front sight, but the new gun’s is .240 inch longer and pinned in.
The new revolver has the S&W trademark stamped on the left-hand side of the frame, whereas my old Model 17’s frame is stamped on the right side. The lettering on the new model’s barrel is larger in size but not as deeply set. The new model’s cylinder latch thumbpiece is virtually the same size and shape as the thumbpiece on my old 17-4, but the new one’s checkering is finer.
The new model comes from the factory with its topstrap drilled and tapped for a scope mount. My 17-4 is also drilled and tapped for a scope mount, but I had to do that myself. Back when my gun was made, that feature was not a standard offering from the factory. And lastly, the new model has the S&W key lock located on the left side of the frame; my old 17-4 has no such integral locking device.
As for the new model’s accuracy, well, it is just as accurate as my old 17-4. I installed a Burris 3-9X handgun scope on the new model, set it on 9X, and fired six different .22 LR loadings at 25 yards from a benchrest. The details are listed in the accompanying chart, but suffice it to say, the Model 17 is head-shot accurate on tree squirrels and cottontail rabbits at that distance. In fact, I used the new 17-9 this past fall to do a bit of Fox squirrel hunting at home here in Illinois, and last summer I fired another Model 17-9 while on a prairie dog and ground squirrel shoot in Wyoming. The new model feels almost as good in my hands as my old 17-4.
Quoting from a 1939 Stoeger catalog, former Shooting Times Handgun Editor Skeeter Skelton once referred to S&W’s K-Frame .22 as being as accurate as a watch and as sturdy as a tractor. That rings as true today as it did back then.
 

S&W Model 17 CLassic Accuracy

Ammuntion Velocity (fps) Standard Deviation (fps) Extreme Spread (fps) 25 Yard Accuracy (in.)
.22 Long Rifle
CCI 32-gr. Stinger 1305 29 65 2.65
CCI 36-gr. Mini Mag HP 1134 26 62 2.08
Winchester 36-gr. Xpert HP 1145 25 48 2.75
Federal 38-gr. Game-Shok HP 1171 33 64 2.58
Federal 40-gr. Gold Medal Solid 1009 32 67 2.65
Winchester 40-gr. Power Point 1180 21 44 1.63
Notes: Accuracy is the average of five, five-shot groups fired from sandbag benchrest.Velocity is the average of five rounds measured 15 feet from the gun’s muzzle.

Read more: http://www.shootingtimes.com/handguns/handgun_reviews_st_swnewmodel17_201003/#ixzz4xrbJIY6k

Categories
All About Guns

Smith & Wesson Model 51

Image result for Smith & Wesson Model 51
Image result for Smith & Wesson Model 51
 Image result for Smith & Wesson Model 51
Image result for Smith & Wesson Model 51
For the last month or so I’ve been running axis deer hunts on our Hill Country lease…

The author’s favorite Kit Guns are the stainless-steel, 4-inch-barreled S&W Model 63 (top) and the blued, alloy-frame, 3.5-inch-barreled S&W Model 43 (bottom). One of these guns rides on his hip every day as he rides the ranch doing chores in the off-season.

For the last month or so I’ve been running axis deer hunts on our Hill Country lease. The days are long, so there are lots of chores to do between the morning and evening hunts. One of my favorites is running my raccoon traps. Few of my clients have ever trapped before, so they often ask to ride along as I check my trapline and dispatch as many of the protein-feeder-raiding thieves as possible. I am astounded at how many of those clients ask about the classic Smith & Wesson Kit Gun that generally resides on my hip.
The Kit Gun made its debut in the mid-1930s as the .22/32 Kit Gun. It was marketed to the outdoorsmen of the day who often carried their necessities in kit bags. The revolvers often rode in the bags for which they were named, but just as many rode on the hips of hikers and ranchers and in the tackle boxes of fishermen.
The Kit Gun was light, compact, accurate, and capable of dealing with the various nuisances outdoorsmen most commonly encountered. Not surprisingly, it was wildly successful.
The first Kit Guns were built on the old S&W I-Frame until about 1960, when S&W began building the guns on the slightly larger J-Frame.
In addition to the standard .22 LR Kit Gun, Airweight and .22 Magnum variants were also available. When Smith & Wesson began numbering all its guns, the blued Kit Gun became the Model 34, the stainless variant was the Model 63, the Airweight became the Model 43, and the Magnum version was called the Model 51.
All came standard with adjustable sights, wood grips, and the old-world craftsmanship for which those old S&W revolvers were known.
I rarely wear a .22 during deer season, but one of my .22 LR Kit Guns gets the nod in the off-season when snakes and coons are the varmints I’m most likely to encounter. My favorite Kit Gun variants are the Models 43 and 63.
The Model 43 has an alloy frame and a round butt. Its barrel is an odd but handy 3.5 inches long with a relatively trim taper. It has the standard S&W adjustable rear sight with a black serrated front. All the examples I’ve seen have a rich, lustrous blue finish that’s darn hard to find these days, and all are beautifully built. As far as carry guns go, the trim, featherweight beauty is tough to beat.
The Model 63 is a stainless-steel gun. Mine has a 4-inch barrel, though 2- and 6-inch barrels were also available. The 63’s barrel is relatively trim, as are its stocks. S&W’s classic adjustable rear sight and a ramp front sight with an orange insert are standard. The combination carries easily and shoots great out to as far as most folks are likely to shoot a rimfire revolver.

The author carries this S&W Airweight Model 43 Kit Gun a great deal, and it’s so lightweight, he often forgets he has it on.

I go back and forth between the two Kit Gun variants. The stainless gun holds up better to the day-in, day-out wear and tear a ranch gun must endure, and I wear it quite often in a pancake-style holster from Tucker Gun Leather (www.tuckergunleather.com). But as much as I like my 63, the 43’s alloy frame and trim tube make it such a joy to carry that I find myself wearing it more often than not.
Worn high on my hip in a belt scabbard from Andy Langlois (www.andysleather.com), the diminutive sixgun is hardly noticeable, but when it’s time to dispatch a trapped raccoon, fox, or bobcat, my Airweight Kit Gun is instantly at hand.
The Kit Gun is not just a short-range plinker, though. I use mine to dispatch wounded big game without excessive damage to the meat, hide, or head. [Editor’s note: In some states it is illegal to even finish wounded big game with a .22. Be aware of local laws.]
In fact, I finished an axis deer and a Corsican sheep with mine just last week. Both were shot well, but I don’t like them to suffer, and the clients don’t seem to mind when I hasten their demise with my little .22. Federal’s 40-grain solid drives deep enough to get the job done without damaging the meat or the hide.
I use them on hogs, too. When a big boar hog runs afoul of a snare, my Kit Guns are accurate enough to put some 40-grain sedatives into their vitals from a distance. I don’t mind getting closer, but a big hog can do a tremendous amount of damage if you get it worked up.
I’ve found that it’s better to shoot them before they see me. Those 40-grain solids drive deep enough to get the job done surprisingly fast when I place my shots accurately.
When I’m not using my Kit Gun to dispatch varmints, it gets a heck of a workout on dirt clumps and cow patties.
Serious plinking is, in my opinion, the very best way to sharpen your shooting and keep it that way, so I do lots of it. I may not hit every egg-sized object I take aim at from long range, but I hit enough, and I don’t miss the lucky ones by much.
When you’re good enough to hit even a cantaloupe-sized object at 100 yards, you’re well on your way to becoming a serious pistolero. The sight alignment and trigger control those long-range sessions build will improve every other aspect of your shooting, too.
Though the classic Kit Guns have come and gone, S&W has introduced several new variants over the years, including .32, .38 Special, and .44 Special guns. Perhaps my favorite recent Kit Gun is the little 2-inch-barreled, flyweight Model 317 that came out in the 1990s.
I sold mine long ago to buy something stupid (like food or gas), but that tiny gun spent a lot of time hanging on a lanyard around my neck as I paddled my canoe up and down water moccasin-infested Oyster Creek near my home.
Today’s Smith & Wesson line is rich with Kit Guns. The same 1.875-inch barreled, 10.8-ounce Model 317 I used to carry is back in the line, as is a 3-inch, fiber-optic-sighted 317. A Model 63 with a 3-inch barrel and fiber-optic sights and a hammerless, DAO Model 43 C round out the .22 LR Kit Gun line. All have eight-shot cylinders.
For anyone who needs a little more horsepower, the Kit Gun line also includes a pair of seven-shot .22 Magnums. The 10.8-ounce Model 351 PD has fiber-optic sights, a 1.875-inch barrel, a blued finish, and Rosewood grips.
The other offering is the hammerless, snub nosed Model 351 C. Both are perhaps better suited to self-defense than trail use, but they would be handy on the trapline.
It’s easy to get wrapped up in selecting the ultimate big-bore hunting revolver or finding the perfect carry gun, but the truth is few folks shoot those big boomers much.
A good rimfire, on the other hand, will get shot a lot. Smith & Wesson’s fine Kit Gun in any of it numerous variations is a great choice. You’ll shoot it lots because .22 ammo is cheap, and you’ll become a better shooter in the process.

Attachments area
Categories
N.S.F.W.

Real Estate, Real Estate. I could sell Real Estate instead of this job! Nah! NSFW

Image result for womens naked butts hd pinterest
Image result for womens naked butts hd pinterest
Image result for womens naked butts hd pinterest
Image result for hd nude women pinterest
 
Related image